uscgmac_imp
Been there
Thanks cormanus, I cut, copied and pasted it and thats how it came up.
Added oil.
- Thread starter Inhouse Bob
- Start date
the Ferret
Road warrior
No we're good usc,
BTW I tried to write down his method according to our CB1100. If I understand him right..you tell me
(1) 1st ride: 20 miles (hope you don't live further than that from the shop you bought it from, or else I guess trailer it home?). First 10 miles vary speed between 2800 and 4250 rpms (1/3 to 1/2 of redline is what he recommends... which on CB is 8500 rpms). Park it (guess you could stop part way home?) and let sit 20 mins. Restart and ride 10 more miles between raising ceiling by 1000 rpms to 5250 rpms.
Change oil and filter at 20 miles. Don't be worried if you see metal flakes or metal debris in oil.
2nd ride: 30 miles. First 15 miles vary speed between 1800 and 6250 rpms (lowering and raising limits by 1000 rpms each.... note you are now at 35 miles and using 75% of redline). Park it and let sit 20 mins. Restart and ride 15 more miles between 1800 and 7250 rpms. (again raising ceiling by 1000 rpms ...note you are now at 50 miles and using 85% of redline)
Change oil and filter at 50 miles. Don't be worried if you see metal flakes or metal debris in oil.
Now for remainder of break in miles rev it from 1800 rpms up to near redline.
At 200 Miles change oil and filter. Don't worry if you see flakes of metal or metal debris in oil.
at 500 Miles change oil and filter. Don't worry if you see flakes of metal or metal debris in oil.
at 1500 miles change oil and filter. Don't worry if you see flakes of metal or metal debris in oil
Bike is now broken in.
Seriously, I can see why manufacturers don't put that recommendation for break in in the owners manual. :rofl:
BTW I tried to write down his method according to our CB1100. If I understand him right..you tell me
(1) 1st ride: 20 miles (hope you don't live further than that from the shop you bought it from, or else I guess trailer it home?). First 10 miles vary speed between 2800 and 4250 rpms (1/3 to 1/2 of redline is what he recommends... which on CB is 8500 rpms). Park it (guess you could stop part way home?) and let sit 20 mins. Restart and ride 10 more miles between raising ceiling by 1000 rpms to 5250 rpms.
Change oil and filter at 20 miles. Don't be worried if you see metal flakes or metal debris in oil.
2nd ride: 30 miles. First 15 miles vary speed between 1800 and 6250 rpms (lowering and raising limits by 1000 rpms each.... note you are now at 35 miles and using 75% of redline). Park it and let sit 20 mins. Restart and ride 15 more miles between 1800 and 7250 rpms. (again raising ceiling by 1000 rpms ...note you are now at 50 miles and using 85% of redline)
Change oil and filter at 50 miles. Don't be worried if you see metal flakes or metal debris in oil.
Now for remainder of break in miles rev it from 1800 rpms up to near redline.
At 200 Miles change oil and filter. Don't worry if you see flakes of metal or metal debris in oil.
at 500 Miles change oil and filter. Don't worry if you see flakes of metal or metal debris in oil.
at 1500 miles change oil and filter. Don't worry if you see flakes of metal or metal debris in oil
Bike is now broken in.
Seriously, I can see why manufacturers don't put that recommendation for break in in the owners manual. :rofl:
uscgmac_imp
Been there
Very true Ferret. This is also a break in method used more likely for an all out sport bike as well. I rode pretty hard but not extreamky hard with varied rpm levels for 20 min then 30 and then an hour using up to 6.5k rpms and changed the oil within the first couple hunderd miles. I did not break it in to the extream of the article and did not completely redline it but my point is it doesnt need to be 4k or under with the rmps. As long as you vary the range frequently and increasingly and then change the oil soon after you should have a real good break in and everything cleaned out and seated well. Better to break it in harder than too light.
Pterodactyl_imp
Road warrior
Interesting. With my CB I just varied the RPM and kept it under 6000RPM, and off full throttle accelerations, for the first 500kms (300 miles) and then used it in a normal, relaxed, manner until 1000kms (600 miles), when the dealer changed the oil and filter. Pretty much what Honda recommends. Much the same as any machine I've owned. If I had done the Uscgmac run in procedure as described above and then did an oil and filter change at 1500 MILES and found 'flakes of metal and metal debris' in the oil and filter I would have been seriously worried. Very seriously worried. Anything in there after that procedure should only be visible by careful analysis of the filter.
Anyway, ever since 1000kms I have ridden it as hard as I've wanted, and at times thrashed the guts out of it, and Last Blast still runs well. I have the feeling that it will outlast me.
Cheers
Anyway, ever since 1000kms I have ridden it as hard as I've wanted, and at times thrashed the guts out of it, and Last Blast still runs well. I have the feeling that it will outlast me.
Cheers
the Ferret
Road warrior
Yea Ptero, truth is as long as you don't do sustained anything at either end of the spectrum, and change the oil at around 5-600 miles initially and evey 3/4000 miles after that, it's going to be fine. Not sure what you'd have to do to one of these to do damage but any resemblance to average care and they will live longer than most of their owners.
kmoney_imp
Road warrior
It's pretty hard to damage a modern engine unless you full out abuse it. I have no idea what the CB went through, but I can imagine it had some pretty impressive dyno cell/destructive testing.
Ive never read about an MC manufacturer, but you can look up what the major auto makers do to prove their designs. One of Ford's tests is cycling an engine between peak power and peak torque for 48 hours (yes, not a typo) with stoppages only for oil changes or parts failure.
Unless you forgo maintenance or beat on a non-warm engine, etc... you are basically going to be fine.
Ive never read about an MC manufacturer, but you can look up what the major auto makers do to prove their designs. One of Ford's tests is cycling an engine between peak power and peak torque for 48 hours (yes, not a typo) with stoppages only for oil changes or parts failure.
Unless you forgo maintenance or beat on a non-warm engine, etc... you are basically going to be fine.
Apropos your analysis Ferret, you can just about read the breaking in threads if that was the required method: 'Yer don't need to do that stuff.' 'Look at it; it's just a conspiracy on the part of the manufacturer to get you to buy more and more oil and more and more filters.' 'All you need to do it ride it carefully and vary the revs for 600 miles then change the oil and filter and it will run like a dream. For ever.'
'Oh, by the way, you can use only Dr Dactyl's Omnigrade motorcycle oil. Anything else will ruin the engine.'
'Oh, by the way, you can use only Dr Dactyl's Omnigrade motorcycle oil. Anything else will ruin the engine.'
Inhouse Bob
Road warrior
Thread starter
Just to beat this dead horse a little more, do you check your oil while on the center stand or on the rubber? I have been checking mine while on the rubber, leaning it until it is balanced and taking a look. I just changed the oil and added four quarts. Checking it while on the center stand, it reads full full. Drop it to the rubber and it is between the lines. So, which is the proper level? I know it's a small difference, but I'm a worrier.
There may be a discussion of this in "Wild Hogs" and if so, I'll pass it on... :celebrate:
There may be a discussion of this in "Wild Hogs" and if so, I'll pass it on... :celebrate:
the Ferret
Road warrior
Lol they dont check their oil in Wild Hogs
Centerstand.. Manual calls for start and run for 2-3 minutes. Turn it off and wait for 2-3 mins and check it.
That's the factory method. i have also done as you and just pull it up to level while on the tires and watch the oil come up in the site glass. iF the oil comes up in the glass, I'm good. nO need to get down and see where it is exactly. iF it's half way up the window, it's good to go.
Remember anywhere "between" the lines is "in spec". Doesn't have to be right at the upper line.
Centerstand.. Manual calls for start and run for 2-3 minutes. Turn it off and wait for 2-3 mins and check it.
That's the factory method. i have also done as you and just pull it up to level while on the tires and watch the oil come up in the site glass. iF the oil comes up in the glass, I'm good. nO need to get down and see where it is exactly. iF it's half way up the window, it's good to go.
Remember anywhere "between" the lines is "in spec". Doesn't have to be right at the upper line.
Inhouse Bob
Road warrior
Thread starter
Thanks. My biggest problem with the checking of the oil is that my glasses aren't set up for looking at things from funny angles. I need a special pair of reading glasses just for the purpose. Pathetic.The ferret_imp said:
On another subject, but related... what is with the indexing of this service manual?? I can't find squat in here. Maybe I need a different pair of glasses for this, too.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Hey Bob, one member said he bought a selfi stick and used his phone to take a pic of the oil level while he sat on the bike! Just a thought. I think he said he couldn't bend over, so gotta do what ya gotta do 
Inhouse Bob
Road warrior
Thread starter
Well, there you go!
the Ferret
Road warrior
How are you going to wiggle the little windshield wiper with that? lol
4 Paws_imp
Road warrior
read this thread on a rainy day. Next warm sunny February day (oxymoron?) I did my pre-ride inspection and found the oil level too low. Added about 6 - 8 oz oil and went riding. No lost sleep.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
There is an app for thatThe ferret_imp said:
capttwb136_imp
Running like a top
Now that was a good idea!Lord Popgun_imp said:Hey Bob, one member said he bought a selfi stick and used his phone to take a pic of the oil level while he sat on the bike! Just a thought. I think he said he couldn't bend over, so gotta do what ya gotta do
the Ferret
Road warrior
ok you guys got me curious as I don't check mine between changes very often. So, I didn't pop it on the center stand, run it and shut it off and wait method... just went out and looked using the rock it up straight on the tires then put a board under the side stand to hold it near the tipping point, got down and checked with a flashlight method... and it's a ok. Might check it the official way for comparison in the next couple of days. At any rate I know there is oil in there lol. 2228 miles since last change. Will get changed again before leaving for the rally in a couple of months. Might check it the official way for comparison.
Also checked the condition of my PR3S while I was there. Rear is getting close. Maybe another 1,000 - 1500 miles left in it. Front still looks good. No feathering or cupping on either tire. They have 10,138 miles on them. Will also get changed before the rally. I run 38 front 40 rear psi in my tires.
Also checked the condition of my PR3S while I was there. Rear is getting close. Maybe another 1,000 - 1500 miles left in it. Front still looks good. No feathering or cupping on either tire. They have 10,138 miles on them. Will also get changed before the rally. I run 38 front 40 rear psi in my tires.
There has to be a difference measuring on the rubber as opposed to the centre stand. The bike sits differently on the stand: the weight is forward and the rear tyre is of the ground. I've no idea what that means for how the level displays, but it will surely be different.
the Ferret
Road warrior
Yea not sure exactly what difference it makes Cormanus, but the big difference in level is seen side to side as from side stand which will show no oil to center stand (or vertical) which will show a full oil level.
On the money, Ferret, as always. 
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