ABS Light Flashing on 2017EX

[GoldOxide_imp]

Thanks for showing a sample.

 

[peterbaron]

Here's a little information on the SCC tool to help clarify (or confuse) the subject.

Every fuel injected Honda motorcycle, scooter, ATV or SXS from about 2003-on has a 4-pin connector in the wire harness used for diagnosing the fuel injection system. (It actually may be used a few earlier models like 929 and Blackbird, but I don't recall for sure).

Sometimes they're called SCS or SCC (service check connector) or DLC (data link connector). Codes are retrieved by plugging in the SCS tool, basically a female mate to the harness connector that bridges 2 terminals (the other 2 are just left blank).

The same tool (# 070PZ-ZY30100) is used for all of them, from Grom to Gold Wing to Big Red, so it's not a bad tool to have, even though the manual tells you which wires to bridge (I've used a paper clip before).

However, there is a danger of shorting the wrong wires, which has been known to short out PGM-FI units. (Some models use the other 2 wires of the SCS connector in the harness to power Genuine Honda accessories.)

On some ABS models, such as the 2013 CB1100A, an extra 3-pin connector elsewhere in the harness is used, and it uses a different plug-in connector tool.
2014 and later CB1100 use the same SCS harness connector for ABS also

This is it. Honda #070PZ-ZY30100 SCS Service Connector. Basically just a jumper with a plug-n-play connector. It's something I need to buy. I'll use it one time, throw it in the toolbox, and not be able to find it the next time I need it.

Thank you all for the updates...nice to have online education, so we all can benefit from it

 

[pekingduck]

iamheero, did you find out the problem or the cure? We're all curious.

 

[peterbaron]

iamheero, did you find out the problem or the cure? We're all curious.

+1

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

iamheero, did you find out the problem or the cure? We're all curious.

+1

+1 -(0 - sqrt(1))

 

[iamheero_imp]

Hey guys, sorry for not responding, I hate those posts where you see someone with your problem and no post about the fix, unfortunately... I don't have anything useful to add. I pumped up the air in the tires and since then I noticed it on the very next ride: I was stopped and stationary facing down a steep hill, the ABS activated at a standstill for no apparent reason (I was not sliding), the ABS started pulsing the brakes and I rolled forward about 6" before it just disabled itself, and the error-blinking/flashing ABS light came on and stayed on as described in my earlier posts. It was a little scary for a second to be honest. I haven't had that happen again, although it's been too rainy in LA to test it too much.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

hmm, that is a drag. It would be nice to have a "reproducer" before taking it to the dealership. In any case, that is typically half the battle.

 

[peterbaron]

Here's a little information on the SCC tool to help clarify (or confuse) the subject.

Every fuel injected Honda motorcycle, scooter, ATV or SXS from about 2003-on has a 4-pin connector in the wire harness used for diagnosing the fuel injection system. (It actually may be used a few earlier models like 929 and Blackbird, but I don't recall for sure).

Sometimes they're called SCS or SCC (service check connector) or DLC (data link connector). Codes are retrieved by plugging in the SCS tool, basically a female mate to the harness connector that bridges 2 terminals (the other 2 are just left blank).

The same tool (# 070PZ-ZY30100) is used for all of them, from Grom to Gold Wing to Big Red, so it's not a bad tool to have, even though the manual tells you which wires to bridge (I've used a paper clip before).

However, there is a danger of shorting the wrong wires, which has been known to short out PGM-FI units. (Some models use the other 2 wires of the SCS connector in the harness to power Genuine Honda accessories.)

On some ABS models, such as the 2013 CB1100A, an extra 3-pin connector elsewhere in the harness is used, and it uses a different plug-in connector tool.
2014 and later CB1100 use the same SCS harness connector for ABS also

This is it. Honda #070PZ-ZY30100 SCS Service Connector. Basically just a jumper with a plug-n-play connector. It's something I need to buy. I'll use it one time, throw it in the toolbox, and not be able to find it the next time I need it.

Thank you all for the updates...nice to have online education, so we all can benefit from it

This is it. Honda #070PZ-ZY30100 SCS Service Connector. Basically just a jumper with a plug-n-play connector. It's something I need to buy. I'll use it one time, throw it in the toolbox, and not be able to find it the next time I need it.

Thank you all for the updates...nice to have online education, so we all can benefit from it

Hey guys, sorry for not responding, I hate those posts where you see someone with your problem and no post about the fix, unfortunately... I don't have anything useful to add. I pumped up the air in the tires and since then I noticed it on the very next ride: I was stopped and stationary facing down a steep hill, the ABS activated at a standstill for no apparent reason (I was not sliding), the ABS started pulsing the brakes and I rolled forward about 6" before it just disabled itself, and the error-blinking/flashing ABS light came on and stayed on as described in my earlier posts. It was a little scary for a second to be honest. I haven't had that happen again, although it's been too rainy in LA to test it too much.

Diagnose yourself by a special tool for your '17
Hey, can someone with '17 manual confirm (including location) if it is the same like '14 ??

 

[iamheero_imp]

Well it's been several rides since it's reared it's ugly head, I'm hoping the moto-gods have heard my prayers and sent the gremlins back to he**. Only time will tell!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Fixed by its absence. Stay aware.

My guess is wiring and/or connection. Almost all my wiring problems on other bikes were under the tank - typically where it is hottest for non-engine parts. I only had one wiring problem that was in the steering neck area going into the headlight bucket, however, it was a fatigued broken wire (my engine stop circuit, which sometimes caused backfire as the engine momentarily died at speed). All were unpredictable, challenging to determine, and some depended on temperature.

 

[pekingduck]

Something as simple as under-inflated tires could have triggered the ABS light. When the front and rear wheels are not turning at corresponding speeds. Same thing happens when an oversized or different profile tire is used.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Something as simple as under-inflated tires could have triggered the ABS light. When the front and rear wheels are not turning at corresponding speeds. Same thing happens when an oversized or different profile tire is used.

Good observation PKDuck. I reckon a tire would have to be somewhat significantly under-flated. Otherwise, many riders would experience this more frequently.

 

[iamheero_imp]

Something as simple as under-inflated tires could have triggered the ABS light. When the front and rear wheels are not turning at corresponding speeds. Same thing happens when an oversized or different profile tire is used.

That's what I thought, even if it was just a few psi under (maybe the PO filled in the summer and it's been pretty chilly here recently as you know). It's why I was so bummed when I had the same issue even AFTER filling up the tires a bit.

 

[pekingduck]

Hey guys, sorry for not responding, I hate those posts where you see someone with your problem and no post about the fix, unfortunately... I don't have anything useful to add. I pumped up the air in the tires and since then I noticed it on the very next ride: I was stopped and stationary facing down a steep hill, the ABS activated at a standstill for no apparent reason (I was not sliding), the ABS started pulsing the brakes and I rolled forward about 6" before it just disabled itself, and the error-blinking/flashing ABS light came on and stayed on as described in my earlier posts. It was a little scary for a second to be honest. I haven't had that happen again, although it's been too rainy in LA to test it too much.

That's a weird occurrence, when you can feel the caliper pulsing at a stop. Never heard of anything like it.

 

[jtopiso_imp]

Hey guys, sorry for not responding, I hate those posts where you see someone with your problem and no post about the fix, unfortunately... I don't have anything useful to add. I pumped up the air in the tires and since then I noticed it on the very next ride: I was stopped and stationary facing down a steep hill, the ABS activated at a standstill for no apparent reason (I was not sliding), the ABS started pulsing the brakes and I rolled forward about 6" before it just disabled itself, and the error-blinking/flashing ABS light came on and stayed on as described in my earlier posts. It was a little scary for a second to be honest. I haven't had that happen again, although it's been too rainy in LA to test it too much.

That's a weird occurrence, when you can feel the caliper pulsing at a stop. Never heard of anything like it.

That's a weird occurrence, when you can feel the caliper pulsing at a stop. Never heard of anything like it.
For me, this makes it more clear that the error is from a wheelspeed sensor or it's wiring.

A broken wire vibrating can generate open/closed pulses, and that be taken by the ABS as a wheelspeed, even when stopped.
If the other wheel is reading properly (i.e. stopped), the ABS "thinks" the bike must be rolling with one locked wheel, so the ABS modulation is triggered at a stoplight.

Should be easy to repair, as the ABS pump and hydraulic part of the system seems to be working fine.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Hey guys, sorry for not responding, I hate those posts where you see someone with your problem and no post about the fix, unfortunately... I don't have anything useful to add. I pumped up the air in the tires and since then I noticed it on the very next ride: I was stopped and stationary facing down a steep hill, the ABS activated at a standstill for no apparent reason (I was not sliding), the ABS started pulsing the brakes and I rolled forward about 6" before it just disabled itself, and the error-blinking/flashing ABS light came on and stayed on as described in my earlier posts. It was a little scary for a second to be honest. I haven't had that happen again, although it's been too rainy in LA to test it too much.

That's a weird occurrence, when you can feel the caliper pulsing at a stop. Never heard of anything like it.

That's a weird occurrence, when you can feel the caliper pulsing at a stop. Never heard of anything like it.
For me, this makes it more clear that the error is from a wheelspeed sensor or it's wiring.

A broken wire vibrating can generate open/closed pulses, and that be taken by the ABS as a wheelspeed, even when stopped.
If the other wheel is reading properly (i.e. stopped), the ABS "thinks" the bike must be rolling with one locked wheel, so the ABS modulation is triggered at a stoplight.

Should be easy to repair, as the ABS pump and hydraulic part of the system seems to be working fine.

That's a weird occurrence, when you can feel the caliper pulsing at a stop. Never heard of anything like it.
For me, this makes it more clear that the error is from a wheelspeed sensor or it's wiring.

A broken wire vibrating can generate open/closed pulses, and that be taken by the ABS as a wheelspeed, even when stopped.
If the other wheel is reading properly (i.e. stopped), the ABS "thinks" the bike must be rolling with one locked wheel, so the ABS modulation is triggered at a stoplight.

Should be easy to repair, as the ABS pump and hydraulic part of the system seems to be working fine.
+1

 

[iamheero_imp]

I appreciate the input! It's been so rainy here. Los Angeles just got four straight very uncharacteristic days of rain, so I still haven't done much testing. No errors on the last couple short rides though! I've ordered some electrical contact cleaner and I'm going to use that on the sensors/ see if there's visible dust/grime under the side cover that may warrant a spray around there. I'll be riding to San Diego tomorrow for work, but it's all highway so it'll be more of a test of the new windshield (NC Street Shield EX) than the ABS, hopefully!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

I appreciate the input! It's been so rainy here. Los Angeles just got four straight very uncharacteristic days of rain, so I still haven't done much testing. No errors on the last couple short rides though! I've ordered some electrical contact cleaner and I'm going to use that on the sensors/ see if there's visible dust/grime under the side cover that may warrant a spray around there. I'll be riding to San Diego tomorrow for work, but it's all highway so it'll be more of a test of the new windshield (NC Street Shield EX) than the ABS, hopefully!

I suppose check those tires!

 

[Exbex1_imp]

Good day everyone.
2017 CB1100ca.
I changed tires and bent the front pulse ring like a fool. Tried to straighten with a little success. It's not perfect but its pretty good. The encoder looks perfect. ABS light flashing.

My question is will disconnecting the battery reset the “abs computer” or is that a hard failure you need that jumper tool to reset. The ring is only $25 so its not a deal breaker, I'd just like to know if my repair was good enough. I'm guessing no!

I ordered a Honda shop manual, but it’s not here yet!

Thank you for any insight. Enjoy the day.

 

[Lord Popgun]

You need a new ring, and the gap set to spec.