8000 Mile Valve Adjustment requirement

bflint

Been there
Thread starter
So my cb1100dx odometer is at 5200. Starting out at about 6000, I was planning on taking a longer trip (3-5k miles). How much past 8000 can I wait to have the required 8000 Mile Valve Adjustment performed? Or, in other words, when is everybody else getting their first 8000 mile maintenance performed? Thanks (ps, this forum is bitchin to you my 60's vernacular).
 
Another alternative is just do the 8000 mile service "early". There is nothing that says you have to do it exactly at 8000 miles. Conversely, you could wait till after your trip to do it. Either way, your dealer will perform the valve check and be glad to take your money. Obviously, you can check you valves ANYTIME you want, but probably it is better to do it sooner than later for greater peace of mind.
 
Ok first of all it's an inspection. It's only an adjustment if something is out of whack. This particular valve system is favored by all the Japanese companies because it is reliable and with it the valves rarely go out of adjustment. Rarely meaning...not usually. I think Randy B had some valves out of spec at his first service. I can't remeber anyone else having any out, including one member who checks his own and has over 50,000 miles with none out of spec. Maybe someone else had.I took mine into the dealer (as it was with my ST 1300) and asked about an inspection. They asked if there any unusual noises, if it was getting hard to start, if it was running rough, or if my gas mileage had changed. NO to all questions. The mechanic (which I trust) said in his opinion, I'd be wasting my money. I'm now at 22,000 miles and still none of the issues they asked about so my valve covers have never been off. At 54,000 miles I took my ST in and asked for an inspection. They had never been checked and it was driving me batty with concern. It cost me $138 to find out they were all still in spec lol. It's now at 73,000 and I may have them checked again at 100K.

Long story short, Honda recommends an inspection every 8000 miles, but if you are not having any issues, my advice would be to go on the trip, and have them inspected upon your return. If you don't have them inspected you are gambling. Question is, do you feel lucky? Lol

Btw my brother rides a Bonneville with same valve layout. Last time his were checked was at 32,000 miles and all still in spec.
 
I would say that unless you are beating it to death and constantly running near the red line you should be OK to go over the 8000. Valve train wear is accelerated at high RPM's.
 
It's just a valve check. Most certain they will be ok and no adjustment is required. I had exactly the same values at 12,000 km and 24,000 km. Most important thing is the oil change.

I would wait with the inspection until after the trip. If you're anxious, you could change the engine oil before the trip and have a look at the brake pads. I wouldn't mind about the valves.
 
Thread starter
Thanks. I haven't adjusted any valves since I rebuilt my 1964 Plymouth Valiant slant-6 engine in 1973. Thanks again my cb brothers :)
 
bflint, CHECKING them is easy. Adjusting them requires the cams to come out. Get a service manual ahead of time if you are going to do them yourself.
 
I'm finally having mine checked at a local dealer in a couple weeks at about 12k miles. I've been putting it off because it's been running great but I need to get it done so I can quit thinking about it. I'll report back what I find out.
 
dsinned_imp said:
Not that motojournalists know anything just because they are motojournalists (that means the person helped write a press release once, lol) but Jerry Smith, yes, very credible source there. A fellow geezer.

The man does not mince words, reflecting my own experience over the years:

Ignore the forum chatter. The loudmouth who says you never have to check your valves won’t pay for repairs should something happen and won’t stand behind you when the dealer denies warranty coverage because you haven’t followed the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule. Also, should you decide to sell your bike, you’ll have to find a similarly maintenance-averse buyer to accept the fact that you haven’t checked the valves. The odds are very slight that you’ll ever have valve train-related problems, but knowledge is far more useful than hearsay.

But again, each to his/her own. We take more chances going out on the road than with going longer than the specified maintenance interval.

Here's a bike Mr. Smith rode for Rider magazine earlier this year, something eerily familiar about it:
[attachment=4938]
 
Sam Mac_imp said:
I would say that unless you are beating it to death and constantly running near the red line you should be OK to go over the 8000. Valve train wear is accelerated at high RPM's.
Mine were all in spec, I run it into the rev limiter occasionally.

As The ferret stated, take your trip and then have them checked. Don't do it early, if anything, do it later. They'll likely be in spec anyway but at least give them a chance to go out.
 
Thread starter
I had the valve clearance checked after my trip at 12K on odometer (Nov 2016). Dealer said all good; no adjustments made. Cost $800. Now (Dec 2017) bike is at 20K and going to have the valves checked again.
 
That's good news, but $800? .... WOW

I see you are in So Cal... maybe you can talk Ulvetanna into checking them for you for a good steak dinner?
 
Holy. Freaking. CRAP.

800 dollars. For an inspection and no adjustment. I'm sorry, but that it is absolutely ludicrous in my mind. Coulda almost got a full exhaust kit for that much.
 
These modern motors don't need the valves looked at like they used to. A Yamaha dealer told me about my FZ1, "I'm not going to waste your money. Just ride it." Valves go out of spec by redlining it. Having said that, a VFR was run flat out for 24 hours by a test team and was still as new after that when they took it apart. I had the valves "checked" ha ha, which means they started it and it didn't stall and then they wound up the motor near redline and it didn't miss a beat. It does one or the other when out of spec. Or it is obviously noisy.
 
nhawk7504_imp said:
These modern motors don't need the valves looked at like they used to. A Yamaha dealer told me about my FZ1, "I'm not going to waste your money. Just ride it." Valves go out of spec by redlining it. Having said that, a VFR was run flat out for 24 hours by a test team and was still as new after that when they took it apart. I had the valves "checked" ha ha, which means they started it and it didn't stall and then they wound up the motor near redline and it didn't miss a beat. It does one or the other when out of spec. Or it is obviously noisy.
Just be sure to let us know where to write in order to obtain our "nhawk7504 warranty vouchers"! :D
 
nhawk7504_imp said:
These modern motors don't need the valves looked at like they used to. A Yamaha dealer told me about my FZ1, "I'm not going to waste your money. Just ride it." Valves go out of spec by redlining it. Having said that, a VFR was run flat out for 24 hours by a test team and was still as new after that when they took it apart. I had the valves "checked" ha ha, which means they started it and it didn't stall and then they wound up the motor near redline and it didn't miss a beat. It does one or the other when out of spec. Or it is obviously noisy.
The Yamaha FZ1 has a Genesis engine, which calls for valve clearance checks at 26,600 miles (42,800 km). These engines have very light valves and extremely durable materials in the valve train. Also, liquid-cooled engines have much more stable temperatures, which is why they can go far longer between inspections.

Keep in mind that a quiet engine may have tight valves, drastically more dangerous than if they are loose. The valve helps to cool the engine when it contacts the valve seat. The valve timing is critical to this function. If a valve spends too much time hanging out on the seat, it and the seat, and the combustion chamber will run hot. Parts will be destroyed. I've pulled apart two liquid-cooled engines where this occurred.

The edges of the valves were pounded so thin, they were almost razor-sharp, and did not seal properly. The first sign of this is very hard starting.

As Guth humorously pointed out, without a warranty voucher, perhaps a routine check, as Honda recommends, would be in order.

There is a reason why these service schedules are in place, and whilst they're expensive, they're to protect your investment and perhaps your safety, not to enrich dealers.

All that said, I did my own valve inspection (have done for the last 35 years on all my bikes) and all was perfect.

But without an inspection, it's just a guess.
 
That's right — what's the old saying Ulvetanna? A tappy valve is a happy valve (or something to that effect).
 
Back
Top