6th gear....speed vs rpm

The ferret_imp said:
There would be no weight transfer using the rear only. Using the front you would have front end dive and weight transfer, but not when using rear only. Is that not correct?
Not true. Physics always applies and the weight wants to stay in motion so it resists any attempt to slow it down or stop it, regardless whether the stopping force is applied to the front or the rear. Also the front end dive is proportional to the amount of force applied.
 
Jammed the rear brake tonight in the church parking lot to see what would happen, they work. But in concert with the front brakes this bike stops great!
Ferret,
Have thought of bleeding the lines?
 
Guys, tell me if I'm wrong, as if I doubt you will, but there is a massive difference between " testing" the rear brake and using it in conjunction with the front to execute an emergency (or panic if you like) stop.

In an emergency stop the front brake application produces weight transfer to the front. This weight transfer is accentuated by, in most cases, if not all, by the riders weight being transferred from the pegs to the bars. This will produce a front rear weight ratio of up to 90/10 (source Keith Code). Therefore rear brake application will initiate a lock up in an emergency stop well before a rear brake only application in a "test the rear brake only" scenario. So if you doubt that the rear brake is effective and will not lock up try a balls and all emergency stop. Just watch that the bike doesn't swap ends. Also if the rear starts to slide and rear brake pressure is released with the bike not tracking straight then, when the rear wheel regains traction, look forward to the high side which is about to occur. If the rear wheel locks you are, in most cases, best to keep it locked and steer out of the slide.

Cheers
 
The ferret_imp said:
Ok just got in from a ride. It is confirmed..again..my rear brake sucks. The rear brake on my wife's scooter is much, much better. 30 mph, 40 mph no front brakes, pull in the clutch, push the rear brake hard and slooooooowly come to a stop. Just a wimpy rear brake. I must have tried it 1/2 dozen times. One particularly hard rear pedal mash made the abs kick in one time, felt like a chain skipping a tooth on a sprocket. Not like in my car where it cycles several times..bang, bang, bang, bang..it was just one bang on the bike. Thank goodness for exceptional front brakes. Again, 10 mph or less the rear brake seems to feel good. Just not any good at helping haul it down from speed.

Can't wait until the rally to compare bikes with others. ( if I don't fix mine before then)
Not questioning you because I have a lot of respect for your opinion but what are you using as a point of reference? Your ST1300 maybe? I believe you.

Could you elaborate a little more? My 750 has tons better back brakes than my previous sportster but when you get to the limits you realize it was not as good as you thought or wanted. It locks up easier than you think it will.

Again, respect your years or riding and experience, but to have 2 years in a row that you think are lousy are pretty incredible and one wonders what you deem decent and where yoiur point of reference is on good brakes. THis matters to me because I want good brakes.

Hope this did not come off wrong. Its just an important part of the CB11 to me and I trust you to be honest.
 
gossman_imp said:
Mine won't slide, ABS
ABS will not stop a slide. Check out an ABS equipped bike slide it's arse around on the track. It will stop a lock up, and that is real good as it optimises traction. As the lady said (sung): "It's nice work if you can get it". In Oz we couldn't.

Cheers
 
Pterodactyl_imp said:
gossman_imp said:
Mine won't slide, ABS
ABS will not stop a slide. Check out an ABS equipped bike slide it's arse around on the track. It will stop a lock up, and that is real good as it optimises traction. As the lady said (sung): "It's nice work if you can get it". In Oz we couldn't.

Cheers
ABS will not stop a slide. Check out an ABS equipped bike slide it's arse around on the track. It will stop a lock up, and that is real good as it optimises traction. As the lady said (sung): "It's nice work if you can get it". In Oz we couldn't.

Cheers
I understand that, it's the reason I was looking for a ABS equipped motorcycle. My lsst bike had a drum on the rear and it consisted of barely slowing then lock up. I love the idea that the ABS and the CB has a great system for me.
 
Thread starter
OldF7Guy_imp said:
The ferret_imp said:
Ok just got in from a ride. It is confirmed..again..my rear brake sucks. The rear brake on my wife's scooter is much, much better. 30 mph, 40 mph no front brakes, pull in the clutch, push the rear brake hard and slooooooowly come to a stop. Just a wimpy rear brake. I must have tried it 1/2 dozen times. One particularly hard rear pedal mash made the abs kick in one time, felt like a chain skipping a tooth on a sprocket. Not like in my car where it cycles several times..bang, bang, bang, bang..it was just one bang on the bike. Thank goodness for exceptional front brakes. Again, 10 mph or less the rear brake seems to feel good. Just not any good at helping haul it down from speed.

Can't wait until the rally to compare bikes with others. ( if I don't fix mine before then)
Not questioning you because I have a lot of respect for your opinion but what are you using as a point of reference? Your ST1300 maybe? I believe you.

Could you elaborate a little more? My 750 has tons better back brakes than my previous sportster but when you get to the limits you realize it was not as good as you thought or wanted. It locks up easier than you think it will.

Again, respect your years or riding and experience, but to have 2 years in a row that you think are lousy are pretty incredible and one wonders what you deem decent and where yoiur point of reference is on good brakes. THis matters to me because I want good brakes.

Hope this did not come off wrong. Its just an important part of the CB11 to me and I trust you to be honest.
No, I understand what you are saying, but obviously you can tell your Nighthawk rear brake was better than your Sportsters. An experienced rider can tell when a rear brake ( or front) is effective or not if they have ridden several bikes. I couldn't use the ST 1300 for reference because it has linked brakes so when you try and use rear only you also get some front. Skews the results.

I think if you've ridden enough bikes (and I have literally ridden hundreds) you know when the rear brake feels strong or doesn't. My 750 Nighthawk drum brake was better at slowing the bike (up to the point of lock up and skid) than either of my CBs, but the single front disc was rather weak. My wife's Majesty scooter has a great rear brake and will slow the scooter quickly, stronger than her front brake too. I have had 3 other experienced riders, my brother, my son and my sons father in law, ride my 13 and test the rear brakes and all said the exact same thing.."yea, not much there". Of course the Honda rep said it was fine. This is the first time I tested the 14s rear brake by itself. I really thought it was better than my 13, but it's not. Honestly, take it up to 30 mph, pull in the clutch, step hard on the rear brake and it just slows down agonizingly slowly. It just keeps rolling until it gets down to about 10-15 mph, then it starts to stop. To me it's scary, how ineffective it is. Thank goodness this motorcycle has outstanding front brakes.

Thing is, I'm not the only one who feels the rear brakes on their CB is ineffective. There were others in 13, and there are at least 2 others on 14s who also feel their rear brakes are not as strong as they should be. I may leave mine like this and let others at the rally ride it and compare, but by then I would be out of warranty, so I may go ahead and take it in and have them bleed the brakes and see if it's any better.
 
Ferret, all this talk about the brakes makes me want to bleed my rear again. Maybe later today. Hopefully, no more air is in there.
 
Thread starter
Just saw some good posts by Ptero and Randy and others. I want to continue discussing, but right now I'm going for my morning ride. be back in an hour or so.
 
Thread starter
Great ride! .... As usual

Talking about braking..Randy I believe there is some residual transfer of weight when stopping with the rear brake only (hard to deny physics) but nothing like the transfer of weight on the front end when the front brakes are applied. Which are why larger diameter, multi piston caliper dual discs are on the front, and smaller diameter single disc with fewer piston calipers are on the rear.

Ptero... Yes there is a big difference between " testing" and full emergency panic braking. Not disputing Keith Code's numbers, as I have heard other numbers as well, but whether the numbers are 90/10 80/20 70/30 whatever the numbers are, it is important that the rear brakes function properly. When guys tell me they never use their back brakes, only the front, I just have to wonder why they would give up that extra measure of braking voluntarily. Why would you give up even 10% (using Codes figure) of the braking power the rear brake provides? If rear brakes were not vitally important, why would MotoGP bikes have them? They could save weight and complexity by eliminating a disc, a carrier, a caliper, a hose, a master cylinder and fluid, yet as powerful as the huge front brakes on MotoGP bikes are, they still have rear brakes and I'm guessing when they hurtle down a front straight to a tight hairpin curve, the MotoGP riders use them. Braking hard with the front unloads the weight on the rear making the rear brake less efficient, sometimes to the point of lifting the rear wheel off the ground, but in a non emergency situation ( heck even in an emergency situation) using BOTH brakes is the most efficient way to stop, and both should be strong.

Strong brakes are more important to me than having 100 horsepower, or a motorcycle that will run over 100 mph. I rarely (virtually never) ride that fast, but I often have to brake hard. Several times in the last few days, once when I came around a corner only to find stopped cars in my lane due to a stopped school bus, and another when an old man obviously didn't see me and pulled out in front of me. I rely on my brakes saving my life.

I don't want my rear brake to lock up. I dont want my front brakes to lock up either. A skidding motorcycle is an out of control motorcycle (which is why ABS is such a good safety feature) but I want the strongest front and rear brake I can get prior to them locking up, or prior to the abs kicking in, whichever comes first.

The easiest remedy for brakes that are not as efficient as they should be are multi fold. # 1 bleed the system to eliminate any air in the system. #2 deglaze the brake pads # 3 clean the disc #4 replace the stock pads with a pad with more bite #5 replace rubber lines with stainless lines after that its replace disc, replace caliper, try better brake fluid, depending on how much braking power you desire.
 
Stating the obvious, But stopping is ultimately a function of the tire and road surface. If tire has high friction to road more braking force can be applied before it starts skidding. If tire has low friction locking is easy and the skid starts and the same for the road. Just saying it is the road surface, tire characteristics and the brake system.


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I don't have the answer but since my rear brake does not feel spongy or mushy I doubt that bleeding it will help. The pedal is always consistent and steady - just not strong on stopping power until the speed is way down.

I don't feel strongly enough about it to approach the dealer, and applying front AND rear in any panic stop (yep, I've had my share over the years) stops it very well.
 
The ferret_imp said:
Great ride! .... As usual

Talking about braking..Randy I believe there is some residual transfer of weight when stopping with the rear brake only (hard to deny physics) but nothing like the transfer of weight on the front end when the front brakes are applied. Which are why larger diameter, multi piston caliper dual discs are on the front, and smaller diameter single disc with fewer piston calipers are on the rear.

Ptero... Yes there is a big difference between " testing" and full emergency panic braking. Not disputing Keith Code's numbers, as I have heard other numbers as well, but whether the numbers are 90/10 80/20 70/30 whatever the numbers are, it is important that the rear brakes function properly. When guys tell me they never use their back brakes, only the front, I just have to wonder why they would give up that extra measure of braking voluntarily. Why would you give up even 10% (using Codes figure) of the braking power the rear brake provides? If rear brakes were not vitally important, why would MotoGP bikes have them? They could save weight and complexity by eliminating a disc, a carrier, a caliper, a hose, a master cylinder and fluid, yet as powerful as the huge front brakes on MotoGP bikes are, they still have rear brakes and I'm guessing when they hurtle down a front straight to a tight hairpin curve, the MotoGP riders use them. Braking hard with the front unloads the weight on the rear making the rear brake less efficient, sometimes to the point of lifting the rear wheel off the ground, but in a non emergency situation ( heck even in an emergency situation) using BOTH brakes is the most efficient way to stop, and both should be strong.

Strong brakes are more important to me than having 100 horsepower, or a motorcycle that will run over 100 mph. I rarely (virtually never) ride that fast, but I often have to brake hard. Several times in the last few days, once when I came around a corner only to find stopped cars in my lane due to a stopped school bus, and another when an old man obviously didn't see me and pulled out in front of me. I rely on my brakes saving my life.

I don't want my rear brake to lock up. I dont want my front brakes to lock up either. A skidding motorcycle is an out of control motorcycle (which is why ABS is such a good safety feature) but I want the strongest front and rear brake I can get prior to them locking up, or prior to the abs kicking in, whichever comes first.

The easiest remedy for brakes that are not as efficient as they should be are multi fold. # 1 bleed the system to eliminate any air in the system. #2 deglaze the brake pads # 3 clean the disc #4 replace the stock pads with a pad with more bite #5 replace rubber lines with stainless lines after that its replace disc, replace caliper, try better brake fluid, depending on how much braking power you desire.
This goes to force applied vs momentum. Of course there will be less dive from only using the rear brake because it is not nearly as strong as the front, even if there were only one rotor up front.

BTW I tested my rear brake last night at 1am coming up to a stoplight from about 45 MPH....WOW! I was completely shocked as to HOW WELL it actually hauled me down. I had to stand on it a bit, but if I ever lost my fronts and I needed to limp home a short distance, I would have all the confidence in the world that it would stop me.

I am surprised at how many of you are having fairly large issues with the rear brake judging from my experiences riding and from my wholly unscientific test last night.
 
In any event; it appears a small number of folks have problems with their rear brakes while most of us seem to have properly working rear brakes which tells me the basic design is fine but that some samples have problems - and should be easily correctable by servicing.
 
Thread starter
Yes, it's very isolated and of little consequence when coming to a stop when using both brakes like you are supposed to. I put 5200 miles on this one without noticing how poor my rear brakes are.lol
 
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