1970 Kawasaki H1

ride4now_imp

Road warrior
Thread starter
A few months ago, I posted on the ‘What bike have you bought twice’ topic that I had just purchased a 1970 Kawasaki H1. I had one back in the ‘70’s and regretted selling it for decades. If anyone’s interested, I thought I’d bring you up to speed on where I am with it right now. First, here’s a few pictures...

On the trailer going home... a repeat photo from before.

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A selfie of me on one of my rides. I know... atgatt... not this time, a rarity for me.

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A cheesecake shot...

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This chrome polish works really well...

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Here’s what I’ve learned... I’ve ridden it 4-5 times for maybe 15 miles each time. I’m just learning about her right now and frankly, don’t want to get stranded anywhere.

-I forgot how peaky the power band is. It’s hard to launch it, you really have to rev it... it’ll lug a bit...then as the revs climb, be careful or the front end will come up!
-It handles like my Harley... which means it doesn’t.
-It starts the first or second kick when cold, but is a bear to start when hot.
-It takes ‘forever’ to warmup. If she isn’t warmed up, you’re not going anywhere.

I’ve taken it to the Kawasaki dealer in St Pete already and it’s going back tomorrow. I can do the maintenance, but they have a tech there who likes working on the old bikes... so I’m letting him have some fun. So far, he’s...

-replaced both tires (stock, retro look and style, Dunlop’s I think).
-replaced the clutch cable (ordered the correct cable and color on line). The old one was working, but was frayed at the top. Didn’t want to take a chance.
-fixed the brake light. The front brakes lights the light, but the
switch was missing for rear.

This week, he’ll...

-sync the carbs (should help the hot starting issue)
-do a compression test (to see if that’s a problem causing the
hot starting issue)
-fix the rear brake switch issue
-maybe install a full set of correct turn-signals (bought on line).
Maybe, because I might decide to just do that myself.

What I’ve done...

-transmission fluid change (BelRay gear saver). The previous owner was just using 10/40 engine oil. Yikes!
-changed over to BelRay 2 stoke oil. The previous owner was using a 2 stoke oil for outboard motors. Double yikes.
-a complete wash
-cleaned and lubed the chain
-replaced the missing handle on the left side, for use when pulling the bike up on the center stand. (NOS, found on line).

What I’ve still got to do...

-install a new set or L and R mirrors. (correct and matching found on line)
-really dig into the cleaning and polishing of the frame, chrome, and paint.

I’m not riding the Honda, or any other bike, much at the moment... having too much fun with this one. So it’ll be fun to be in Berea with the CB next month!

More on this subject... down the road.



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That brings back a memory! I had a white H1. I put a white Vetter Phantom full fairing on it. It really took off when it hit the sweet spot on the pipe, wheelie time for sure! I agree that it did not handle well when cornering, and sure trailed blue smoke when the throttle was twisted!
 
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I rode it to the Kawasaki dealer this morning... had a heck of a time getting it started. I hadn’t ridden it in a month or so...hope they can figure it out. Kicking ALOT is for the birds! Anyway... I left it there and Uber’d back to the garage and got right on the Cb. The Cb felt HUGE... like I was getting on a GoldWing as a comparison. But man... hitting the starter button, she fires right up, pull the clutch in (it’s so light and easy), drop it into gear and off you go.... Easy Peazy. Motorcycles have really advanced in 48 years!!!
 
I would run seafoam in that thing all the time lol. It has electronic ignition, so I would suspect a gas/combustion problem.
 
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The ferret_imp said:
I would run seafoam in that thing all the time lol. It has electronic ignition, so I would suspect a gas/combustion problem.
I did put in ‘real gasoline’ (not e10 or whatever the ethanol blend is) along with Stabil. I use Stabil in all my bikes. Do you like Seafoam better than the rest?
 
Personally I like Seafoam better than Stabil, but stabil is good too. Certainly better than nothing at all.
 
Seafoam is more of a fuel system cleaner than a fuel stabilizer. It does a great job keeping the small passages inside the carb free of varnish and gunk. I run a few cans of Seafoam through my CB750 every year. I've owned it 22 years and have never touched the carbs on it.
 
Thread starter
Flynrider_imp said:
Seafoam is more of a fuel system cleaner than a fuel stabilizer. It does a great job keeping the small passages inside the carb free of varnish and gunk. I run a few cans of Seafoam through my CB750 every year. I've owned it 22 years and have never touched the carbs on it.
Would it work as a stabilizer too? Or would you recommend I use both?
 
I have ised Seafoam as a gas stabilizer for probably 10 years now in lawnmowers, weedwhackers, leaf blowers, chain saws and they sit for up to 6 months or more and start up and run cleanly just like normal. I also use it like flyn says, dump and couple ounces in my bikes a couple times a summer just to clean things up a bit. I buy it 1/2 gallon at a time.
 
Thread starter
Thanks guys. I’ve used Stabil for years with no issues... but I think I’ll try Seafoam because of its cleaning property’s.
 
The H1 & H2 have a special place in my past. The sound that comes from a three cylinder, two stroke machine is addictive.
I had chambers on them. The sound at idle and under load was pure music. The H1 was quick, but the H2 was wickedly fast (hence, the nickname “widow maker”).

Enjoy your new bike!
“smoke em if you got em” :cool::D
 
Two buddies and I traded in our British bikes and bought 1972 750cc H2 Mach 4s. They were jets. We had to learn how to ride all over again. The H2 did not down gear well, but had good brakes to slow down.

Light front end though. Bob destroyed his racing a muscle car over a bridge. When he crested the bridge and hit the westerly winds he lost it. He told us he rode it as a surf board until it dug in and pitched him.

After seeing the bike I believed him. It looked like somebody had taken a large grinder to one side of it.
 
Thread starter
I decided a few months ago to take the bike in to see why it is such a hard start when hot. The diagnosis... low compression and carbs way out of sync. One of the techs at the Kawasaki dealer in St Petersburg like working on the old bikes. The fix was basically new rings... he said the cylinders were in spec and in good shape. It took forever for him to get the jugs to break loose without causing any damage.

Here’s what it looked like on the bench torn down...





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I also had turn signals installed, a brake light switch fixed, and
a few other minor things. I’ll update the post when I get it back.
 
Thread starter
m in sc_imp said:
great looking 70. i've owned a bunch of triples (recently too). so i'll ask: did they do a leakdown test? if not, they need to. hard starting is usually crank seals. the inner ones are rubber and if they are original, they will lose bottom end and be hard to start. there are some really good people in your area that specialize in 2 strokes. one of the best in the country is Chuck Quenzler at team scream in clearwater. look him up, tell him mark h referred you if you still have any issues. nice to see a survivor with a scalloped tank out running around, and congrats! :thumbsup:


below is a crank i rebuilt for my 73 S2. note the rubber inner seals.

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Thanks Mark! I’ve heard that it would be a good idea to do the crank seals but didn’t know where to get it done. The guys at the Kawasaki dealer are great but when asked about that job, they kind of looked the other way. Do you have a phone number? And btw... what is a leak down test?
 
Wow, great info on those seals!!

Ride, if you don’t know what a leakdown test is, better call Mark’s guy :)

Seriously, if you Google leakdown test, you can see videos on how to do it. It isn’t hard, but you do need the leakdown tester and a compressor.
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Wow, great info on those seals!!

Ride, if you don’t know what a leakdown test is, better call Mark’s guy :)

Seriously, if you Google leakdown test, you can see videos on how to do it. It isn’t hard, but you do need the leakdown tester and a compressor.
That was also an issue with the GT 750 Suzukis two stroke triples. One of my Water Buffalos had the inner crank seals go out.
 
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