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it is not sticking out. tried speed out but bolt broke off so nasty it would not center punch and drill wouldn't go in straight either. just boogered it up worse and broke drill bit off in bolt! ordered a used wheel for $300. a rotor would have cost that. these rotors are fine though. put back on with just the 4 bolts to test slow speed stop, which is where the problem was. it's gone! flipping the springs that were backwards on the one rotor fixed it. now smooth as glass! wish I had test ridden after flipping the springs on the one side. the springs on the second side where bolt broke were on correctly!
I bet a lot of folk that think they have warped rotors really have springs on backwards!!
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Well, you know, sometimes we learn the hard way to remember forever and be carful with pre-diag next time. This is called an experience.
S**t happens.
Buy yourself Honda CB1100 service manual if you like wrenching!
Check your PM
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The manual says to replace the bolts as they are ALOC bolts. Which means they come with a locker applied. Interestingly, the handlebar weight screws a ALOC screws and should be replaced. Yeah, I’m not doing that. I just put Loctite on them.
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(06-02-2021, 08:46 AM)jimgl3_imp Wrote: it is not sticking out. tried speed out but bolt broke off so nasty it would not center punch and drill wouldn't go in straight either. just boogered it up worse and broke drill bit off in bolt! ordered a used wheel for $300. a rotor would have cost that. these rotors are fine though. put back on with just the 4 bolts to test slow speed stop, which is where the problem was. it's gone! flipping the springs that were backwards on the one rotor fixed it. now smooth as glass! wish I had test ridden after flipping the springs on the one side. the springs on the second side where bolt broke were on correctly!
I bet a lot of folk that think they have warped rotors really have springs on backwards!!
Can you get the drill bit out?
If you have room, the best approach is to make a flat(ish) surface so you can punch a center, and as Peterbaron has said: drill a pilot and use an extractor (or Left hand tap).
If the bolt has thread-locker (loctite or whatever), you can break it loose with a heat-gun (could this warp the disc? mmm...
)
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problem is it's broken off down inside the threaded aluminum hole. so all my attempts to make a flattish surface resulted in gnarling up the aluminum threads. I know they want wheels and such to be light weight, but putting steel bolts in aluminum is just not good mojo. I once ended up using JB Weld to weld a motor mount up solid on GSXR 750 race bike because the frame slider bolt went into the engine case! If I had realized that I would have never put the frame slider in the first place. turns out frame sliders are not good for racing anyway. they hit curbing and launch your bike into the air. fiberglass race fairings are much better without frame sliders. they are tough and when they do crack you just drill and zip tie and go back out on the track. it's funny, the only progress I made at all, about a quarter turn, was from super gluing the broken off bolt and trying to turn it real easy. it did about a 1/4 turn then broke off the glue.
interestingly enough, after that, it would not stay glued at all.
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I think that frame sliders cause more damage than they really prevent , engine guards /protectors are much better.
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(06-03-2021, 07:44 AM)Houtman_imp Wrote: I think that frame sliders cause more damage than they really prevent , engine guards /protectors are much better.
... in particular if they snag on sumthin'.
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I wanted to make a comment and see what kind of replies I got. IMHO, the rotors on modern motorcycles are made as thin as possible in the interest of saving weight, and of course cost. These thin rotors are very susceptible to damage due to an impact, and a very likely cause of an impact can occur during a tire change. I don't think many people today change their own tires - I remove my wheel from the bike and take the wheel and new tire to a shop to have the tire replaced. Who knows what happens behind closed doors when the mechanic is changing your tire? I had a rim severely scratched during a tire change one time. The guy at the counter agreed to have my rim re-powder-coated, but the manager stepped in and prevented this from happening. I refused to pay for the mount and balance, and they were happy that I didn't take the matter up with the owner. I am sure most of us on this forum have a favorite "mechanic story" they could share.
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You'd figure by 2021 garages would be vigilant to apply precautions to protect customer's junk. Finishes are so precious these days.
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I made one last attempt to remove the broken bolt by putting a bolt in the drilled hole with JB Weld. that did not work either. the bolt simply came out of the JB Weld. I thought that stuff was strong...
anyway, I will be using the new wheel I got for $300. I will let anyone of you have the 2014 wheel with the broken off bolt for $150 plus shipping. pm me if you're interested.
