I screwed up big time....

[PowerDubs_imp]

Thanks for checking, the diagram shows a brown wire for the 12v feed to the pump.
Keep in mind that this only supplies 12v for a second ( to prime the fuel pressure )and then waits for the engine to run before constant 12v supply is provided to the pump through the fuel-cut relay.
best to connect a 12v light between brown and green ( 3 pole connector ) or green/black ( 4 pole connector ) wires and watch it when the ignition is switched on.

Same for fuel injectors, i would check both outside fuel injector connectors with a 12v test light rather than a meter, that way you know the supply is reliable with a load attached, a 20 watt lamp is perfect for this job.

If you could provide a circuit diagram of how the commander etc. is wired that would help a lot, as far as i can work it out you unplug the 10 pole connector for the injectors and insert the p.com in between these connectors?

OK so back in the garage now and first thing I did was go to the brown wire at the disconnect on the side of the airbox and checked – yes I have momentary 12 V there when I turn the key on.

And then for fun I went to test the outside injector on the other side.

Yesterday with my wife standing here I pulled off the left side injector disconnect, put my meter on the black and white wire and the other end on ground, turn the meter on and then turn on the bike ignition and got 12 V.

Today when I went to do the right side injector as soon as I touched my positive meter lead to the black and white wire- my meter switched to a continuity beep to ground.

What the?

It did not do that yesterday.

So I went back just now to the left injector and tried what I did yesterday again but sure enough the black-and-white wire has continuity to chassis ground and the bike is turned off.


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So since somehow now the black and white wire appears shorted to chassis, I unplugged one of the ECU connectors and it’s still beeped. Plugged it back in, then unplugged the other connector and it’s still beat. But if I unplug both of the connectors it stops.


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[max]

And that's correct, all the equipment is connected to the same 12v " bus " at the load end of the fuel cut relay and that is what you are checking with the ohm meter, we are learning.

If you told me to take out the camshafts and grind 0.2 mm of one lobe i would have the same difficulty understanding.

The real test is to take a 20w lamp and see if the two outside injectors have 12v AND make the lamp go on.

The reason for using the lamp is to make sure the wire can supply enough current when the injector is energized, the meter will indicate 12v just fine even with a bad connection because it draws very little current by design, same as testing a knot in a rope by giving it a good tug making sure it holds the load.

Thanks for the test with the brown pump supply, that sounds good.

[PowerDubs_imp]

I am confused. So I should not be concerned that the black and white wire to the injector has continuity to the frame?

If the 12 V can already go right to the frame without even being attached to the injector then why would it bother to pass through the injector on the other side?

Thank you for all your time!

And double thank you for your patience with someone like me that has no idea how the electronics of all this stuff works.


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I am looking at the 10 plug harness that the power commander goes into, do not see a green and orange wire, just unplug the TPS sensor and looked there and again no green and orange wire.

My bike is a 2014 US model.


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[max]

I am confused. So I should not be concerned that the black and white wire to the injector has continuity to the frame?

If the 12 V can already go right to the frame without even being attached to the injector then why would it bother to pass through the injector on the other side?

Thank you for all your time!

And double thank you for your patience with someone like me that has no idea how the electronics of all this stuff works.


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I am looking at the 10 plug harness that the power commander goes into, do not see a green and orange wire, just unplug the TPS sensor and looked there and again no green and orange wire.

My bike is a 2014 US model.


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[PowerDubs_imp]

OK so went back to the injector again and turned it on and got 12 V at each side outside injectors when ignition is turned on. Oddly enough once I turn the key back off and the 12 V goes away the meter does not go back to a continuity beep unless I take my probe off and then touch it again.


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I am confused. So I should not be concerned that the black and white wire to the injector has continuity to the frame?

If the 12 V can already go right to the frame without even being attached to the injector then why would it bother to pass through the injector on the other side?

Thank you for all your time!

And double thank you for your patience with someone like me that has no idea how the electronics of all this stuff works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am looking at the 10 plug harness that the power commander goes into, do not see a green and orange wire, just unplug the TPS sensor and looked there and again no green and orange wire.

My bike is a 2014 US model.


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That’s what my wife says.

You should’ve seen the look on her face the other day when I said “I have to get my bike fixed so I can put it on my dyno”

She is quick enough that she noticed I said “my dyno” and not “the dyno”.



So I am at the TPS plug and yes there is a black and green wire. Just for fun I checked and it also goes continuity to frame.

I found the green and orange, I was looking at one end of the 10 pin connector that comes out from the ECU area and not the other side.

So now that I found it on the 10 pin connector up on the main harness above the cylinder head cover what am I doing with that?


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Green orange wire at far end of 10 connector also confirmed grounded to chassis continuity.


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The Orange and green at the ten pin must be the direction the ground is in because if I disconnect that I lose ground at the other side of the 10 pin and at the TPS itself.


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[max]

Are there any fault codes from the orange cel indicator?

If not i would remove THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL of the battery, let the ecu settle down, put the tank back on,( careful with that fuel connector ) re-connect the battery when all connectors are plugged back in and try again, keep the starter fluid handy just in case.

I have had it in the past that the engine would not fire after sitting for a few days and after a little brake cleaner it just went back to normal

[PowerDubs_imp]

SOOO….. pulled the negative. Waited a minute, reattached.

I put the tank back on- flipped the switch, heard the fuel pump- hit the start button and it fired right up like nothing ever happened.




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[GoldOxide_imp]

SOOO….. pulled the negative. Waited a minute, reattached.

I put the tank back on- flipped the switch, heard the fuel pump- hit the start button and it fired right up like nothing ever happened.




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That is really good news PD.

[PowerDubs_imp]

Tomorrow I’m going to tempt fate and put the power commander back in.

Before I took it out- I plugged my computer cart into it- and it acted normal- could pull the map, and no errors (it has a drop down menu for error checks)

So I figure if anything is fried- it is probably the autotune box.


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[max]

What; no new ecu, no new harness?
What happened?

Can't help myself sometimes Josh, nice outcome and if it was me i would leave it for a week and think things over.