Rear brake pedal

[Cormanus]

Mixagon, I don't know whether this helps at all as my bike is a 2011 model, but here are two (not wonderful) pictures of the location of the adjustable brake light switch. The first shows where it is located; the second shows the top of it. You hold the switch and rotate the nut to adjust it.

Of course, it's entirely possible the RS is completely different.

[url=https://postimg.cc/WhNHPxCQ]

[url=https://postimg.cc/SJgtQDpj]

[Mixagon_imp]

Mixagon, I don't know whether this helps at all as my bike is a 2011 model, but here are two (not wonderful) pictures of the location of the adjustable brake light switch. The first shows where it is located; the second shows the top of it. You hold the switch and rotate the nut to adjust it.

Of course, it's entirely possible the RS is completely different.

[url=https://postimg.cc/WhNHPxCQ]

[url=https://postimg.cc/SJgtQDpj]

Thankyou for the pictures, yes the RS is totally different, in fact you can't even see anything unless you lay on your back with your head right under the bike.
I've never seen anything like this set up in all my biking years.

I will take some pictures later and post.

[Cormanus]

I’ll be interested to see them.

[Lord Popgun]

Yeah, me too.

Cormanus, this appears to be the switch. Totally different from ours—Item 1 https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...r-cylinder

Here is ours—item 6 https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...325c/pedal

[Mixagon_imp]

Two pictures.
First from the outside showing no access.
Second from underneath the bike looking towards behind brake pedal.
[url=https://postimg.cc/7bmTQLmr]

[url=https://postimg.cc/fJG14MRB]

As can be seen the switch is held in place by rivets so is fixed and the light switch adjuster tab is on the same shaft as the brake pedal adjuster but they don't both have the same adjustment range. How it is set in the picture brake and light work ok.
If I turn the shaft to lower the brake pedal 2cm the light adjuster tab can not move any further left because the three nuts are together. The tab needs to be where the dotted line is for the brake light to turn off. So I need to remove one of the nuts to make the brake light operate if I lower the pedal it seems.
Of course to raise the pedal there is ample room to move the nuts and tab along to the right.
Access to remove one nut or move the tab between nuts 2 and 3 needs the silencer and peg holder removed.

Hope that makes sense.

[Cormanus]

Thanks, Mixagon; that's very clear. I thought for a minute the middle nut didn't look quite right. On reflection, I think that's a trick of the light. I assume it has a purpose other than being a spacer, so I wonder what would happen if you removed it?

[max]

Very clear picture Mixagon, seems the big nut's function is to adjust the trigger point of the switch and it has run out of room.
Looks as if the left nut is part of the u shaped connector, the middle is the locknut for same and the right hand one is for switch adjustment timing.

Also from the placement of the rivets it looks like the switch is a " microswitch " and has limited travel hence the separate adjustment nut against the tab.

Could be to remove it and replace it with some washers or plastic hose to get the switch to operate at the right time or get what's called a "half nut" which is half the with of a standard one?

[peterbaron]

Whatever one does with a brake pedal or switch adjustment make sure that the push rod doesn’t touch the plunger…. ‘cos if it does, the brakes will be binding when warmed up!!
The air gap/clearance between the said parts must be within the factory specs and usually is of up to a few millimetres or you have to have a free play of the brake pedal/lever.

[Mixagon_imp]

Thanks, Mixagon; that's very clear. I thought for a minute the middle nut didn't look quite right. On reflection, I think that's a trick of the light. I assume it has a purpose other than being a spacer, so I wonder what would happen if you removed it?

Its a locking nut for the big nut but someone got their measurements wrong in the whole set up and have shortened the adjustment distance. It might be better to just move the tab between nut 2 and 3 and then it will still be lockable. I'm still thinking about this and may just end up bending the tab ? I don't really want to keep messing with this as it may take several attempts and I'd sooner be riding

Very clear picture Mixagon, seems the big nut's function is to adjust the trigger point of the switch and it has run out of room.
Looks as if the left nut is part of the u shaped connector, the middle is the locknut for same and the right hand one is for switch adjustment timing.

Also from the placement of the rivets it looks like the switch is a " microswitch " and has limited travel hence the separate adjustment nut against the tab.

Could be to remove it and replace it with some washers or plastic hose to get the switch to operate at the right time or get what's called a "half nut" which is half the with of a standard one?

The left nut is free to move and acts as a locking nut for the U shaped connector which has a punched threaded hole. So there would be a gap between nut 1 and 2 if the pedal was higher.

Yes washers or half nut is another option thanks. Being a micro switch there is not much leyway in the spacing. I would like to leave 3 nuts in place incase the next owner wants to higher the pedal.

Whatever one does with a brake pedal or switch adjustment make sure that the push rod doesn’t touch the plunger…. ‘cos if it does, the brakes will be binding when warmed up!!
The air gap/clearance between the said parts must be within the factory specs and usually is of up to a few millimetres or you have to have a free play of the brake pedal/lever.

Noted