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This morning I finished installing a new ECU on my 2013 standard and I am very happy to report that not only is the FAST IDLE problem gone, the bike runs like a new bike.
I will post photos that may be helpful later, but it was basically a plug-and-play job once the fuel lines and fuel tank were out of the way.
One very important item of note is that the part number on the original ECU ends with "23" and that part has been replaced with one that looks identical, but has the last two numbers as "24."
For anyone who is interested, I got mine from Partzilla for $478 US and I have seen them advertised for as much as $700+ elsewhere. Shop around, don't buy the first one you see.
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(10-01-2022, 04:13 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: This morning I finished installing a new ECU on my 2013 standard and I am very happy to report that not only is the FAST IDLE problem gone, the bike runs like a new bike.
I will post photos that may be helpful later, but it was basically a plug-and-play job once the fuel lines and fuel tank were out of the way.
One very important item of note is that the part number on the original ECU ends with "23" and that part has been replaced with one that looks identical, but has the last two numbers as "24."
For anyone who is interested, I got mine from Partzilla for $478 US and I have seen them advertised for as much as $700+ elsewhere. Shop around, don't buy the first one you see.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me.
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(10-01-2022, 04:26 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 04:13 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: This morning I finished installing a new ECU on my 2013 standard and I am very happy to report that not only is the FAST IDLE problem gone, the bike runs like a new bike.
I will post photos that may be helpful later, but it was basically a plug-and-play job once the fuel lines and fuel tank were out of the way.
One very important item of note is that the part number on the original ECU ends with "23" and that part has been replaced with one that looks identical, but has the last two numbers as "24."
For anyone who is interested, I got mine from Partzilla for $478 US and I have seen them advertised for as much as $700+ elsewhere. Shop around, don't buy the first one you see.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me. Thanks for asking, pdedse. I replaced the IACV not long after it started and it seemed to help for about a week. So, in all fairness, I guess I should give this a week to see if it goes bad again. After spending over $700 to have the IACV replaced, only to have the problem quickly return, I was not ready to throw more money at it when Powerdubs said it was the ecu. But, Peterbaron wrote about the ecu reset and, when I tried it, it did help. The fast idle went away for awhile each time I reset the ecu. When it came back, it was not as bad as it had been, so I took that as a sign that it did have something to do with the ecu. I decided that $500 was about the same as a set of tires, so I took the plunge. It runs a lot better now than it has since I got it, so I am praying that the problem is solved. I do not know why others had success with the IACV, but suspect that there were other factors involved.
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Excellent result Nach. Congratulations!
Would be cool to understand the root cause, but maybe Honda found that anyway with "24". Open up "23"?
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(10-01-2022, 08:00 AM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote: Excellent result Nach. Congratulations!
Would be cool to understand the root cause, but maybe Honda found that anyway with "24". Open up "23"? I wouldn't know how to open it or what to look for, but if someone who does know what to look for wants it, they can have it.
Probably better to "look" at it electronically and compare it to a "24" if they had one.
Now, if someone wants to put this "23" in another '13 and see what happens, that might be enlightening.
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(10-01-2022, 05:35 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 04:26 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 04:13 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: This morning I finished installing a new ECU on my 2013 standard and I am very happy to report that not only is the FAST IDLE problem gone, the bike runs like a new bike.
I will post photos that may be helpful later, but it was basically a plug-and-play job once the fuel lines and fuel tank were out of the way.
One very important item of note is that the part number on the original ECU ends with "23" and that part has been replaced with one that looks identical, but has the last two numbers as "24."
For anyone who is interested, I got mine from Partzilla for $478 US and I have seen them advertised for as much as $700+ elsewhere. Shop around, don't buy the first one you see.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me. Thanks for asking, pdedse. I replaced the IACV not long after it started and it seemed to help for about a week. So, in all fairness, I guess I should give this a week to see if it goes bad again. After spending over $700 to have the IACV replaced, only to have the problem quickly return, I was not ready to throw more money at it when Powerdubs said it was the ecu. But, Peterbaron wrote about the ecu reset and, when I tried it, it did help. The fast idle went away for awhile each time I reset the ecu. When it came back, it was not as bad as it had been, so I took that as a sign that it did have something to do with the ecu. I decided that $500 was about the same as a set of tires, so I took the plunge. It runs a lot better now than it has since I got it, so I am praying that the problem is solved. I do not know why others had success with the IACV, but suspect that there were other factors involved.
I did miss that part...well, after replacing IACV and ECU, I'd say you and bike are well deserving of idle free issues. I had a '14 standard and had the high/low idle problems back in 2016?, I think it was. But I wasn't patient for a fix and traded it in for another bike, sold it and then came back the '17EX I currently own.
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(10-01-2022, 05:35 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 04:26 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 04:13 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: This morning I finished installing a new ECU on my 2013 standard and I am very happy to report that not only is the FAST IDLE problem gone, the bike runs like a new bike.
I will post photos that may be helpful later, but it was basically a plug-and-play job once the fuel lines and fuel tank were out of the way.
One very important item of note is that the part number on the original ECU ends with "23" and that part has been replaced with one that looks identical, but has the last two numbers as "24."
For anyone who is interested, I got mine from Partzilla for $478 US and I have seen them advertised for as much as $700+ elsewhere. Shop around, don't buy the first one you see.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me. Thanks for asking, pdedse. I replaced the IACV not long after it started and it seemed to help for about a week. So, in all fairness, I guess I should give this a week to see if it goes bad again. After spending over $700 to have the IACV replaced, only to have the problem quickly return, I was not ready to throw more money at it when Powerdubs said it was the ecu. But, Peterbaron wrote about the ecu reset and, when I tried it, it did help. The fast idle went away for awhile each time I reset the ecu. When it came back, it was not as bad as it had been, so I took that as a sign that it did have something to do with the ecu. I decided that $500 was about the same as a set of tires, so I took the plunge. It runs a lot better now than it has since I got it, so I am praying that the problem is solved. I do not know why others had success with the IACV, but suspect that there were other factors involved.
In my eyes the low-too high idle problem has nothing or not enough to do with the IACV or the ECU. Way too much money to solve the problem. Who changed the parts, the dealer? If so, it would've raised the costs.
Too bad that it isn't allowed to use a new and corrected ignition program, the problem solver, in the USA as it is in Germany/Europe. Honda installed it for free in my CB and the engine was immediately cured from the mysterious idle disease.
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Way to go Nacho! Glad that new revision of the ECU took care of it. I'll end up ordering a new ecu for my 2014 soon, more so to stash on the shelf ready for when/if my problems come back.
Can't thank you enough for testing both of those possible solutions for us. $700 to drop on a IACV and have the problem come right back would be very upsetting for anyone.
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(10-01-2022, 04:45 PM)Wisedrum_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 05:35 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 04:26 AM)pdedse_imp Wrote: (10-01-2022, 04:13 AM)Nachodaddy_imp Wrote: This morning I finished installing a new ECU on my 2013 standard and I am very happy to report that not only is the FAST IDLE problem gone, the bike runs like a new bike.
I will post photos that may be helpful later, but it was basically a plug-and-play job once the fuel lines and fuel tank were out of the way.
One very important item of note is that the part number on the original ECU ends with "23" and that part has been replaced with one that looks identical, but has the last two numbers as "24."
For anyone who is interested, I got mine from Partzilla for $478 US and I have seen them advertised for as much as $700+ elsewhere. Shop around, don't buy the first one you see.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me.
Good to hear! So, bottom line, what was it that made you determine ECU as opposed to IACV, which seems to have been the fix for a number of others? If that was already dealt with in another post, ignore me. Thanks for asking, pdedse. I replaced the IACV not long after it started and it seemed to help for about a week. So, in all fairness, I guess I should give this a week to see if it goes bad again. After spending over $700 to have the IACV replaced, only to have the problem quickly return, I was not ready to throw more money at it when Powerdubs said it was the ecu. But, Peterbaron wrote about the ecu reset and, when I tried it, it did help. The fast idle went away for awhile each time I reset the ecu. When it came back, it was not as bad as it had been, so I took that as a sign that it did have something to do with the ecu. I decided that $500 was about the same as a set of tires, so I took the plunge. It runs a lot better now than it has since I got it, so I am praying that the problem is solved. I do not know why others had success with the IACV, but suspect that there were other factors involved.
In my eyes the low-too high idle problem has nothing or not enough to do with the IACV or the ECU. Way too much money to solve the problem. Who changed the parts, the dealer? If so, it would've raised the costs.
Too bad that it isn't allowed to use a new and corrected ignition program, the problem solver, in the USA as it is in Germany/Europe. Honda installed it for free in my CB and the engine was immediately cured from the mysterious idle disease.
In my eyes the low-too high idle problem has nothing or not enough to do with the IACV or the ECU. Way too much money to solve the problem. Who changed the parts, the dealer? If so, it would've raised the costs.
Too bad that it isn't allowed to use a new and corrected ignition program, the problem solver, in the USA as it is in Germany/Europe. Honda installed it for free in my CB and the engine was immediately cured from the mysterious idle disease. Wisedrum, I ordered the part from Partzilla on-line store and installed it myself. I have no interest in going to a third-party "Powersports" dealer and waiting while they sell me every part they can think of until I either run out of money or patience. No matter what the root of this problem is, I am very VERY disappointed in the way Honda motorcycle company has abandoned the US market. There do not seem to be any Honda dealers anymore. The sales, repairs, etc., are handled through third-party companies, like "Ride Now Powersports." They certainly have no interest in protecting the Honda Motorcycle reputation in the US. But they will be happy to take your old Honda on trade for a shiny, new off-road vehicle, boat, lawnmower, generator or even a motorcycle. In fairness, I have not approached the local "Powersports" dealerships about working on my CB1100 to solve this problem, based on the experiences of others around the world who have taken the problem to dealerships and have not had much success. Except for the one in Korea, who replaced the ecu and seems to have solved the problem. For a motorcycle with less than 6,000 miles, a) I should not have had this problem and b) it should have been a re-call to ANY Honda motorcycle mechanic, no matter what the dealership calls itself.
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Glad to hear it has seemed to solve the problem soo far.
Fingers crossed it continues.
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