08-26-2016, 08:02 AM
You guys keep describing taking the front calipers off when the title of the thread clearly states the rear pads.
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Rear brake pad replacement
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08-26-2016, 08:02 AM
You guys keep describing taking the front calipers off when the title of the thread clearly states the rear pads.
08-26-2016, 10:06 AM
Randy once you unbolt the caliper from it's hanger and remove it from the disc, it's the same operation.
08-26-2016, 10:33 AM
08-26-2016, 11:46 AM
Thanks everyone. I was able to easily swap out the rear pads in about 15 minutes. Next time, it'll take 10 minutes.
My OE pads had about 12k miles on them and while they weren't worn to the limit, I was stunned at how damaged they were. The trailing edges were beveled and very rough and crumbly -- the material easily broke off in my fingers. I replaced the pads with another set of OE pads (P/N 43105-MWD-425). I also replaced the rear caliper mounting bolt per Honda's recommendation (P/N 90180-MN8-006). The bolt comes with some thread lock on it. I could have reused the original bolt but didn't mind replacing it. Total cost of parts was $43.00. Replacement is very straightforward: 1 - Press the piston into the caliper by pushing the caliper inwards, towards the wheel (the caliper only has one piston, on the outboard side). 2 - Loosen but do not remove the pad mounting pin (8mm head). 3 - Remove the rear caliper mounting bolt (12mm head). 4 - Remove the pad mounting pin. 5 - Rotate the caliper upwards, towards the front of the bike. If you've compressed the piston sufficiently, the pads will simply fall out. 6 - Clean up the inside of the caliper. 7 - With the caliper rotated upwards, slide in the new pads. Be sure they engage the spring on the upper surface of the caliper, and be sure the tangs on the pads hang on the front of the caliper. It's easy to see what's happening while the caliper is rotated upwards. 8 - Lower the caliper onto the rotor. 9 - Apply a tiny dab of grease to the tip of the pad mounting pin. Reinstall the pad mounting pin through the holes in the pads and the caliper. You'll need to press the pads up against the spring for the holes to line up. Don't fully tighten the pad mounting pin just yet. 10 - Install the (new) rear caliper mounting bolt. Torque to 16 lb-ft. My 1/2" drive torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I simply used an open-end 12mm wrench and did my best. 11 - Tighten the pad mounting pin. Torque to 13 lb-ft. Again, my torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I used an open-end 8mm wrench. 12- Press down on brake pedal to extend the piston and set the pads against the rotor. [url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3D9A54F3-B663-4BE6-9B41-821B753147E7_zpsccfnuidb.jpg.html] ![]() [url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/35A6A9E5-7515-45F7-ABE0-5110EE0B495B_zps8ob5rbtm.jpg.html] ![]() [url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1C4F7274-5D2E-4BB9-A306-4C038090AF1F_zpsnlqlyh2z.jpg.html]
08-26-2016, 08:25 PM
Good job LR and thanks for taking the time to write down the step by steps. I might add that if you have an air compressor its a good idea to blow out any residual brake dust while you are cleaning eveything out, and to take a scratchy pad or fine emery cloth to both sides of your rotor and then clean it with some brake cleaner to remove any of the old pad that had imbedded itself on the rotor surface. Also to get a bungie cord or wire to hang your caliper on if you are going to be letting go of it for any length of tome. You should not let the caliper weight hang on it's hydraulic hose.
Your pads looked like they had a lot of life left in them but did appear to be crumbling on the back edge for some reason? Good job.
08-27-2016, 12:11 AM
Thanks Ferret, all good points. I agree with using bungie cords when removing calipers so they don't hang on the brake lines, but in this specific case, the caliper is not removed from the bike, it is simply unbolted from one location and allowed to rotate against the remaining mounting bolt. With this method, the caliper can be lifted about 1" off the rotor, but it's not removed from the bike. The 1" provides plenty of clearance to replace the pads. There is no stress on the hydraulic line.
I can't explain the condition of the old pads. I've never come across that before.
10-05-2016, 02:40 AM
(08-26-2016, 01:54 AM)Ulvetanna_imp Wrote:It's just one less thing to think about, is all. I've made it a habit of removing a bit of fluid from the reservoir first to prevent any fluid spill then refill with fresh fluid.(08-26-2016, 01:51 AM)MMC_imp Wrote: [quote='Ulvetanna' pid='147552' dateline='1472225913']It's just one less thing to think about, is all.
03-14-2017, 01:02 PM
Have CB1100 2014DX. Simplest disk brake job I ever did! Remove 2 bolts (eg, a screw/pin and a bolt), tilt caliper forward, remove old pads, press/retract hydro cylinder with taped screwdriver, install new pads, reinstall bolts. Thanks to the CB1100 online buddies
03-14-2017, 02:32 PM
(03-14-2017, 01:02 PM)bflint_imp Wrote: Have CB1100 2014DX. Simplest disk brake job I ever did! Remove 2 bolts (eg, a screw/pin and a bolt), tilt caliper forward, remove old pads, press/retract hydro cylinder with taped screwdriver, install new pads, reinstall bolts. Thanks to the CB1100 online buddies Nice..., How many miles did you get out of them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
06-12-2017, 08:33 AM
(03-14-2017, 02:32 PM)dsan1964_imp Wrote:Front are still original at 14,500. Rear has been replaced twice ... once at 5000 and then again at 13,800.(03-14-2017, 01:02 PM)bflint_imp Wrote: Have CB1100 2014DX. Simplest disk brake job I ever did! Remove 2 bolts (eg, a screw/pin and a bolt), tilt caliper forward, remove old pads, press/retract hydro cylinder with taped screwdriver, install new pads, reinstall bolts. Thanks to the CB1100 online buddies |
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