Rotella T6 -> 5w40 vs 15w40?

[GoldOxide_imp]

If I lived in the oven-baked southwest states, I would maybe consider 15W40 T6 too - at least during the warm seasons.

[Yata-Garasu_imp]

If I lived in the oven-baked southwest states, I would maybe consider 15W40 T6 too - at least during the warm seasons.

Did you see my comment about the T4 10w30?

Depending on how many miles I ride this summer, I might winterize with the 10w30 just to have clean oil in the bike during the slow winter months.

Oddly, it's not available at Walmart, but it's $20 bucks a gallon at my local car parts stores.

[GoldOxide_imp]

If I lived in the oven-baked southwest states, I would maybe consider 15W40 T6 too - at least during the warm seasons.

Did you see my comment about the T4 10w30?

Depending on how many miles I ride this summer, I might winterize with the 10w30 just to have clean oil in the bike during the slow winter months.

Oddly, it's not available at Walmart, but it's $20 bucks a gallon at my local car parts stores.

Did you see my comment about the T4 10w30?

Depending on how many miles I ride this summer, I might winterize with the 10w30 just to have clean oil in the bike during the slow winter months.

Oddly, it's not available at Walmart, but it's $20 bucks a gallon at my local car parts stores.
I did. I can't comment on Rotella T4 10W30 (I realize it is MA/MA2 registered) because I can't seem to find any in Ontario, Canada. If I could, I would have used it by now.

[2014ltdltz]

Have not previously used Rotella in the past. Being located in a very hot climate, the OEM-recommended 10W-30 did not sit well with me. I was happier when I saw the service manual ok'd 10W-40 (at least there was a higher end viscosity commensurate with hotter temps, e.g., >100F ambient). That being said, once mine is a little more broken-in, I will entertain possibly using 15W-50 int he summer months. Oh, for clarity, with the exception of OEM break-in I use full synthetics in my motors across the board. Years ago, I recall seeing SAE data charts showing slightly lower engine temps with full synthetics versus standard mineral oils and that has always left an impression on me. Combined with judicious oil and filter changes, I have never had an internal engine component failure in any of my vehicles.

[Yata-Garasu_imp]

I dumped the T6 15w40 at 2600 miles.

Shifting was acceptable and the viscosity and color still seemed good, but the continued noise from the valves was bugging me, and I only got 35 mpg the last two tanks.

15w40 is fine in my Shadow VT750, but it doesn't seem to be a good fit for the CB1100, in my limited experience.

I refilled with 3.9 quarts of T5 10w30. The valve noise is gone and the shifting seems excellent so far, despite the T5 not having any official MA certs.

Hopefully the poor mileage was just caused by low tire pressure.

I'll update later once I've got more miles on the T5.

[GoldOxide_imp]

15W40 might be quite heavy for the CB1100, possibly even under Texas heat.

Rotella T5 is definitely not recommended for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

If you can find T6 10W40 you might be fine.

I used T6 5W40 in the heavy and hot summers in southern Ontario.

[Yata-Garasu_imp]

15W40 might be quite heavy for the CB1100, possibly even under Texas heat.

Rotella T5 is definitely not recommended for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

If you can find T6 10W40 you might be fine.

I used T6 5W40 in the heavy and hot summers in southern Ontario.

There's no T6 in 10w40.

There are a bunch of guys using T5 in their motorcycles at the oil forum Bob Is The Oil Guy. The evidence against using it seems more based on not having the MA letters on the bottle, while the evidence for it seems to be based on actual real world experience.

100 miles in and my CB1100 seems to like it, but I will definitely be keeping a close eye on it, and will update the forum with my experience.

[GoldOxide_imp]

15W40 might be quite heavy for the CB1100, possibly even under Texas heat.

Rotella T5 is definitely not recommended for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

If you can find T6 10W40 you might be fine.

I used T6 5W40 in the heavy and hot summers in southern Ontario.

There's no T6 in 10w40.

There are a bunch of guys using T5 in their motorcycles at the oil forum Bob Is The Oil Guy. The evidence against using it seems more based on not having the MA letters on the bottle, while the evidence for it seems to be based on actual real world experience.

100 miles in and my CB1100 seems to like it, but I will definitely be keeping a close eye on it, and will update the forum with my experience.

Regarding T5, you could be right with supporting empirical evidence.

Nonetheless, since there is no MA/MA2 certification, there is no assurance that the T5 recipe won't change (small adjustments) and be/remain in favour of wet clutches. Shell won't be responsible for any side-effects since it is not formally approved for general motorcycles. Maybe no certification has something to do with how the T5 semi-synthetic (?) is concocted? Maybe there are other issues that have nothing to do with wet clutches, like burned particulates and sensors/catalyzing, etc. (don't know)

On the other hand, T6 explicitly declares the certification.

[Yata-Garasu_imp]

15W40 might be quite heavy for the CB1100, possibly even under Texas heat.

Rotella T5 is definitely not recommended for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

If you can find T6 10W40 you might be fine.

I used T6 5W40 in the heavy and hot summers in southern Ontario.

There's no T6 in 10w40.

There are a bunch of guys using T5 in their motorcycles at the oil forum Bob Is The Oil Guy. The evidence against using it seems more based on not having the MA letters on the bottle, while the evidence for it seems to be based on actual real world experience.

100 miles in and my CB1100 seems to like it, but I will definitely be keeping a close eye on it, and will update the forum with my experience.

Regarding T5, you could be right with supporting empirical evidence.

Nonetheless, since there is no MA/MA2 certification, there is no assurance that the T5 recipe won't change (small adjustments) and be/remain in favour of wet clutches. Shell won't be responsible for any side-effects since it is not formally approved for general motorcycles. Maybe no certification has something to do with how the T5 semi-synthetic (?) is concocted? Maybe there are other issues that have nothing to do with wet clutches, like burned particulates and sensors/catalyzing, etc. (don't know)

On the other hand, T6 explicitly declares the certification.

Regarding T5, you could be right with supporting empirical evidence.

Nonetheless, since there is no MA/MA2 certification, there is no assurance that the T5 recipe won't change (small adjustments) and be/remain in favour of wet clutches. Shell won't be responsible for any side-effects since it is not formally approved for general motorcycles. Maybe no certification has something to do with how the T5 semi-synthetic (?) is concocted? Maybe there are other issues that have nothing to do with wet clutches, like burned particulates and sensors/catalyzing, etc. (don't know)

On the other hand, T6 explicitly declares the certification.
T5 has Molybdenum in it. Just a touch, about 100 ppm. In higher concentrations Moly is not good for wet clutches, but at the low levels in T5, it shouldn't be an issue.

But that's a good point that Shell could change the formula and not worry about how it affects motorcycles. So far, the T5 10w30 is outperforming both the T6 15w40 and the Honda GN4 10w40.

I thought long and hard before taking the T5 plunge. So far so good, but the jury's still out.

I just got home from running errands, gonna take my "Crow Bike" for a spin!

[GoldOxide_imp]

Good to know Yata-Garasu.

Always nice to have another option in case Rotella T6 is not for some.