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Hi Guys. I didn't spend as much time on the IACV on Saturday as I had planned. (I did an oil change and other maintenance items to the VFR though). I also went to the dealer and ordered spark plugs and the tool to hold the cam chain tensioner, which is necessary to inspect the valve clearances (an expensive little bugger). I reinstalled the IACV, and lubed it with motor oil. Reinstalling the air box was a real challenge. Magnus - did you experience this also, or was I just doing something wrong?
When initially powered, when you turn the ignition switch on, the IACV cycles to move the piston out, or into the cylinder. It moves out, then stops.
Besides Magnus and I (and Honda dealers), are we the only ones to have performed this repair? Magnus was able to remove his rear fender without removing the rear wheel, and I was wondering how other people did this. The FSM says to disconnect the shocks to lower the rear wheel and then remove the RH side shock, and remove the fender from the RH side. I looked at the clearance available if I did this and decided to just remove the rear wheel entirely, which I believe helped to make the entire job a lot easier. I also struggled to remove, and install, one of the many sections of the multiple-piece air box - I had to force it out and then back in, distorting the plastic to get it to fit (I am lucky it didn't crack). I was wondering if Magnus, or others, found an easier way to do this.
I'll work a little each evening this week to reinstall all of the parts I removed to get at the IACV. My plan is to perform the valve inspection on Saturday (I have to wait for the cam chain tool from the dealer). If no valves require adjustment then hopefully I will be able to start the engine on Saturday and determine if the new IACV repairs the idle problem.
On the topic of valve inspection: I believe Max posted that he had to move the large, plastic (heat?) shield on the top of the cylinder head, is this correct, or do I have to completely remove it? The valve inspection looks like another daunting task (oh how I miss the old days when bikes were simple to work on).
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WOW Taiwan actually has real bike's! That's awesome, I live in the Philippine's, and their idea of a motorcycle is a 150cc Honda with a sidecar and 8 people on it. LOL (And no I am not kidding) I cant wait to get my 1100 home and let them all drool. There are a few big bikes there but not many. I'm glad to know that not all Asian countries ride 150's.
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There's some pretty big bikes in Japan, methinks, and the CB1100 has certainly been exported to China for at least one of its model years and maybe more.
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Thing to remember is that the engine ran fine for a long time when you got it, if the piston was mis-aligned ( position-wise ) it would have shown up very quickly, so something has changed some time later.
Gentlemen. If my repair is successful and I determine that the new IACV cures the idle problem, if I send my old IACV to one of you guys could you possibly use it to determine what failed on it? Maybe you could come up with a better method to diagnose the idle problems by doing this?
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(05-01-2018, 12:02 AM)Dave_imp Wrote: Thing to remember is that the engine ran fine for a long time when you got it, if the piston was mis-aligned ( position-wise ) it would have shown up very quickly, so something has changed some time later.
Gentlemen. If my repair is successful and I determine that the new IACV cures the idle problem, if I send my old IACV to one of you guys could you possibly use it to determine what failed on it? Maybe you could come up with a better method to diagnose the idle problems by doing this?
Yup. My issue started a year and half after purchasing, and after putting around 9k miles on it.
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Dave
Sorry for the delay in response, but wife and I are helping my son move.
After riding 465 miles yesterday, it actually felt good to load and unload my truck a few times, today, between thundershowers!
I am geographically close to you, for mailing parts, but it is probably better to post close-up photos for many pairs of eyes to scrutinize. If you are not set up to post, then you are welcome to email them to me, Max, etc. and/or a moderator may post them for you.
When I managed an electric motor repair shop, we were a factory warranty station for many manufacturers, such as Baldor, GE, Toshiba, etc. but finding a smoked defective winding, versus all windings overloaded or 2/3 of the windings cooked from single phasing a 3 phase motor or defective bearing was fairly easy. It was also easy to see if a shaft broke on a belt driven application, from an over-tightened belt. However, I am not optimistic about seeing something on your IACV.
If there is no scuffing on the piston at any point, indicating possible periodic binding, I would carefully examine the threaded shaft and "nut" to see if there is any wear or damage...is it possible for shaft to turn and piston not move as it should? If the stepper windings were an issue, I would expect a DTC.
Also, due to its position upon removal, as you described, I wonder how that can be explained.
Sorry to not be of more help.
Back to moving, in the morning, but will check back as soon as practical.
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Dave, you may be all over posting pictures. I haven't checked. If you're not, I'm happy to help out. PM me and I'll send you an email address.
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Thank you Doc and Cormanus for your offer to help post. I haven't posted in a while, and I will take you guys up on it. I have taken some pictures that I think will be helpful, but I have not documented every step of the way.
I've got the air box and fender section "B" installed now. Getting the middle section of the air box in and out was extremely challenging, and I bent the metallic front brake cable where it routes down to the ABS doing it. I wonder if Magnus experienced the same difficulty. I noticed he left the rear air box section pushed back into the frame, where I removed mine (I believe removing the rear wheel opened up a lot of extra space). Magnus also completely removed the fwd section of the air box, where I unscrewed mine from the throttle bodies and pushed it aside.
I cannot detect any damage to the old IACV, and I am praying that after all this work the new IACV cures this problem. I plan to inspect my valves this Saturday, and if they don't need adjusting I should be able to complete everything and fire it up.
Thanks again for all the great support from everybody.
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(05-01-2018, 11:31 PM)Dave_imp Wrote: Thank you Doc and Cormanus for your offer to help post. I haven't posted in a while, and I will take you guys up on it. I have taken some pictures that I think will be helpful, but I have not documented every step of the way.
I've got the air box and fender section "B" installed now. Getting the middle section of the air box in and out was extremely challenging, and I bent the metallic front brake cable where it routes down to the ABS doing it. I wonder if Magnus experienced the same difficulty. I noticed he left the rear air box section pushed back into the frame, where I removed mine (I believe removing the rear wheel opened up a lot of extra space). Magnus also completely removed the fwd section of the air box, where I unscrewed mine from the throttle bodies and pushed it aside.
I cannot detect any damage to the old IACV, and I am praying that after all this work the new IACV cures this problem. I plan to inspect my valves this Saturday, and if they don't need adjusting I should be able to complete everything and fire it up.
Thanks again for all the great support from everybody.
Dave , you did heck of a job for all the Forum members, plus bonus goes to you, cuz automotive is not your field = needles to say well done.
If there is no one nearby to exam removed IACV, I can offer my "expertise*" (will take some time) and I'm willing to pay up-to U$20 S&H cost.
Let me know, so can pm you my address (Canada)
*bench test, mechanical and electrical, will not install
  
pb
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(05-01-2018, 11:31 PM)Dave_imp Wrote: Thank you Doc and Cormanus for your offer to help post. I haven't posted in a while, and I will take you guys up on it. I have taken some pictures that I think will be helpful, but I have not documented every step of the way.
I've got the air box and fender section "B" installed now. Getting the middle section of the air box in and out was extremely challenging, and I bent the metallic front brake cable where it routes down to the ABS doing it. I wonder if Magnus experienced the same difficulty. I noticed he left the rear air box section pushed back into the frame, where I removed mine (I believe removing the rear wheel opened up a lot of extra space). Magnus also completely removed the fwd section of the air box, where I unscrewed mine from the throttle bodies and pushed it aside.
I cannot detect any damage to the old IACV, and I am praying that after all this work the new IACV cures this problem. I plan to inspect my valves this Saturday, and if they don't need adjusting I should be able to complete everything and fire it up.
Thanks again for all the great support from everybody.
Here's hoping that the reassemble goes smoothly and the idle issue disappears.
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