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What popgun says!
In Australia we use RON or the Research Octane Number. 91 is the lowest available at the he pump with premium RON at 94 and 98. The Australian Honda manual says at page 34 "Use unleaded fuel with a research octane number of 91 or higher."
Popgun or Ferret, I think your search skills may be better than mine. Recently someone responded to one of my posts with a link to an article about octane rating that explained it well. Do you think I can find it again? Any ideas?
EDIT: Asking leads to the answer! The link was posted by BestStandard in [url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=10439&pid=167131#pid167131]this post. Stand down chaps.
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Hi guys- not going to read through 26 pages- but in my experience with vehicles, even modern complicated computerized ones- problems are often caused by simple stuff, and easily overlooked.
It is safe to say that all the same year/model/region bikes are running the same software- so I rule that out as a CAUSE.
I put that in big letters as I do not mean that the parameters of the software might not be 'on the edge' enough that a flaw somewhere else is enough to trip an error- but if 99% of everyone else is OK on the software- so should you be.
Yea a sensor can be out of spec- but should be both easy to test and replace.
Again- I haven't read through the thread- but a lot of 'techs' these days don't look at the basics.
Has anyone tested for an air leak? Many more places for this to occur, much more random in occurrence, not readily apparent...
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On the last 3 trips I did, each one lasts round about 50km, the CB idles totally normal after a long phase of 1.500 idling revs with a warm engine. I did nothing except starting the bike and go out for ride. Maybe the ECU with all it sensors has found back to normal code life. I will observe it, but don't think, that the problem has forever disappeared.
The only think that causes me a troubleful mind is the fact, that my CB has to pass an emission control in a few weeks, that is part of the German TÜV every two years. if the Honda is then falling back into its 'bad habit' , I will have a problem. The examination expects a normal low idling. I will see.
Wisedrum
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So I have the 1500rpm idle problem and I've replaced the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) and now the engine oil temperature sensor (EOT?) as well. I also did the throttle position reset thing where you open and close the throttle a few times with the key on. So far no real change.
The bike will actually idle perfectly for a few minutes once it gets up to temperature. But then after a few more minutes of riding it goes back up to 1500rpm idle and stays there. I can't seem to figure it out. I wish I had an oil temp gauge so I could see if it's oil temperature related. Do these bikes have a thermostat for the oil cooler or anything? I wonder if the motor is getting too cold or (less likely) hot?
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There is no thermostat in the oil system. It just flows around
Since you replaced the IACV and EOT, I think I would do what PowerDubs has suggested and look for air leaks. Even the manual suggests that. There are only 3(that I can think of) things left. The ECU, MAP and the IAT sensors. But just throwing parts at the problem doesn't seem to be getting it taken care of for most people and is expensive.
I see you are in San Diego. You have a nice moderate climate there. We have members riding in Phoenix in the Summer with no problems and Ferret (at least) up North riding all Winter with no problems. I don't think you motor is running hot or cold.
Wish I could help more.
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A can of starting fluid sprayed around in the intake side of things while idling can work wonders for 'diagnosis'.
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(04-03-2017, 12:01 PM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: A can of starting fluid sprayed around in the intake side of things while idling can work wonders for 'diagnosis'.
This stuff is the go:
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Cormanus is in Austrailia. So if that is AUS, it is $11.34 USD. Still not cheap!
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*Sigh* Nothing in Australia is cheap.
