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BMW rider thinking of returning to Honda
#11
Interesting.

As a former R1200GS owner...the quality of the CB1100 is, at least, equal.

Not only assembly; but fuel-injection mapping; general operation. You will find the steering suspension on the CB is neutral, which differs from the BMW.

Performance, as you can see from horsepower ratings, is going to be lower. But, I'm projecting (others can correct me) down the road, maintenance costs will be FAR lower.

Yes, chain-drive is more primative than a shaft. But the elaborate maintenance of a modern BMW, versus the lower-cost upkeep of a Honda...makes the tradeoff more worth it.

Bottom Line: The Honda CB1100, a "retro" model, is also a proven design - and will deliver value; and which is technologically up-to-date.
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#12
Thanks all for the comments - keep 'em coming!

I was telling a friend of mine that I'd really prefer to have ABS. All of my BMWs had it, although I never used it except in braking exercises, it's a comfort to know that in a panic you can just squeeze for all you're worth and the bike will stop el pronto. (Yes, I'm bilingual Wink )

My days of long-distance touring are behind me, not that I was ever really crazy about it in the first place. Butt, knees, wrists; they all get sore after an hour or so, and I'm good with short Sunday rides. But I did like the ride comfort of the big BMWs, and that's one of the things I wonder about since I'm going to have to fly to Colorado to get a test ride (thanks for the offer!).
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#13
I own two BMW's (1100 RT and F650 GS) and picked up a 2014 CB1100 Standard last year. So impressed with Honda that I am planning on purchasing a 2016 Africa Twin when it is released in the Spring. Love my BMW's but am disappointed with the high price to get into a new bike and the issues BMW has had with reliability recently.
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#14
Having chain drive is not the handicap that it was in past times. I've adjusted mine twice I think. First time was within the first 600 miles which is normal for a new chain. I use Tirox Synthetic chain lube which dries like a wax and leaves no sticky residue or fling on the chain. The chain stays quite clean between lubes which I do about every 300 to 400 miles. With the center stand this is an easy chore that takes only a minute or two. I also like the option of easy final gear ratio changes that a chain allows. I have had a few shaft drive bikes, BMW, Kawasaki, Honda and Moto Guzzi and I do like the convenience of a shaft but also worried about the cost if the shaft drive ever failed.
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#15
(09-09-2015, 02:11 AM)redbirds_imp Wrote: Having chain drive is not the handicap that it was in past times. I've adjusted mine twice I think. First time was within the first 600 miles which is normal for a new chain. I use Tirox Synthetic chain lube which dries like a wax and leaves no sticky residue or fling on the chain. The chain stays quite clean between lubes which I do about every 300 to 400 miles. With the center stand this is an easy chore that takes only a minute or two. I also like the option of easy final gear ratio changes that a chain allows. I have had a few shaft drive bikes, BMW, Kawasaki, Honda and Moto Guzzi and I do like the convenience of a shaft but also worried about the cost if the shaft drive ever failed.

Unfortunately, it seems that with recent BMWs in the USA, it's more of a matter of when, not if, the final drive fails.
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#16
A lot of people say the final drives blowing on Beemers is over blown, however I know personally of one fellow who has had 3 final drive failures. He recently bought an FJR. I'd love to have an R1200R but mentally, there is just no way I could ever trust it.
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#17
My personal, unscientific theory is that the final drives are fine if you are a skinny German guy riding to Austria. But if you are a typical (large) American with a three week supply of clothes in your side bags and tail bag with a 6 liter tank bag and camping gear strapped to the rear seat, all of that weight goes beyond the design specs and the drives go TU.

Me personally, I've never had an issue with the BMW FD units, but then I weigh less than a hummingbird and rarely carry a bunch of stuff, and I've usually flipped the bikes before they got too many miles on them anyway.
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#18
(09-09-2015, 05:26 AM)Beemer Guy_imp Wrote: My personal, unscientific theory is that the final drives are fine if you are a skinny German guy riding to Austria. But if you are a typical (large) American with a three week supply of clothes in your side bags and tail bag with a 6 liter tank bag and camping gear strapped to the rear seat, all of that weight goes beyond the design specs and the drives go TU.

Me personally, I've never had an issue with the BMW FD units, but then I weigh less than a hummingbird and rarely carry a bunch of stuff, and I've usually flipped the bikes before they got too many miles on them anyway.

Ah, I was going to post something, but I misread your comment. I agree that the shaft drives are probably more fragile than chains, however, they offer some advantages: they're sealed against weather and their maintenance interval is a lot higher. BMW has shaft drive on their K1600 which is a 700+lbs bike with 125+lbs/ft torque. I haven't heard much, if any, on shaft drive failures on that bike.
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#19
(09-09-2015, 07:05 AM)AzBob_imp Wrote:
(09-09-2015, 05:26 AM)Beemer Guy_imp Wrote: My personal, unscientific theory is that the final drives are fine if you are a skinny German guy riding to Austria. But if you are a typical (large) American with a three week supply of clothes in your side bags and tail bag with a 6 liter tank bag and camping gear strapped to the rear seat, all of that weight goes beyond the design specs and the drives go TU.

Me personally, I've never had an issue with the BMW FD units, but then I weigh less than a hummingbird and rarely carry a bunch of stuff, and I've usually flipped the bikes before they got too many miles on them anyway.

Ah, I was going to post something, but I misread your comment. I agree that the shaft drives are probably more fragile than chains, however, they offer some advantages: they're sealed against weather and their maintenance interval is a lot higher. BMW has shaft drive on their K1600 which is a 700+lbs bike with 125+lbs/ft torque. I haven't heard much, if any, on shaft drive failures on that bike.

Ah, I was going to post something, but I misread your comment. I agree that the shaft drives are probably more fragile than chains, however, they offer some advantages: they're sealed against weather and their maintenance interval is a lot higher. BMW has shaft drive on their K1600 which is a 700+lbs bike with 125+lbs/ft torque. I haven't heard much, if any, on shaft drive failures on that bike.
true but you should search "the net" about all the other issues this bike is (in)famous for....

a google search with the word combination of the designation name of BMW's flagship, with the words problem or issue delivers a bit too much results
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#20
Of my three bikes, one has a shaft, the other two have chain. Don't think about either. What is nice about the chain; you can change your final drive ratio very easily (if not cheaply) and when it comes time to get new chains and sprockets - complete new drive train! Yay! Once you get the lube situation noodled out it's just not that messy like the good ol' days.

The one thing I do not like about my shaft drive (Moto Guzzi CARC), that CARC section is heavy and it's all that weight and the suspension has to accommodate it. Does not seem to be a problem in the real world though.

I find the CB to be VERY easy to ride; especially in town. She is light on her feet, plenty of low end torque and smooth. I think I have learned something new regarding me; for the open road I prefer twins. Just the thrum of a big steam locomotive that the Griso gives, it's more relaxing and organic - for me. There are many times I which the CB had the Griso motor (I never think the inline four would be cool in the Griso......).

But it does sound like the CB should be in your top three choices for shorter urban/country rides. I'm also fond of big singles and would recommend a big single dual sport - unless your inseam makes that a poor choice. There is more vibration, but it's not a buzz, and they are typically light and just a hoot to toss around on the road (the KLR is not so light). Kinda like what motorcycling use to be before things got so complicated. Smile
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