Suspension mods started

[Guth_imp]

You wouldn't be the first Bob (and I count myself amongst this group). Please keep the updates coming.

[4 Paws_imp]

Quite interested in your results and am curious as to why and how you decided to purchase these particular components.
Looked at Racetec for another bike of mine but went a different route.

Looking forwards to a ride report.

[ohiorider_imp]

Quite interested in your results and am curious as to why and how you decided to purchase these particular components.
Looked at Racetec for another bike of mine but went a different route.

Looking forwards to a ride report.

First pass didn't work as I anticipated. Forks quite stiff. I won't throw in the towel until I first talk with Traxxion Dynamics and ask for their thoughts. Perhaps lighter springs, less fork oil, lighter fork oil, etc.

No ride report forthcoming until I take a closer look at a bunch of the variables.

Bob

[spacetiger_imp]

Bob,

I know you had them set up your emulators, so you probably don't know what they did. Is there a way to call and get that info?

On emulators, there is no adjustment for the rebound damping other than picking the oil viscosity. Once picked, you have to make changes to the compression damping side. There are 3 things you could do - it depends on what is guiding the end result. The 3 changes are picking the GVE spring (yellow, blue or silver), setting the preload on that spring and how many pressure relief holes (it comes with 2, but you can add 2 more). For my GVE's I use only 10 wt, the blue springs and set the GVE preload amount close to max preload with a total 4 holes.

My first thought is that the 20 wt oil is pretty heavy. If its because you need stout rebound damping, then okay but you better have made changes to the compression side - especially if you have changed to stiffer springs.

There is no harm in checking the oil level, but it sounds like there is harshness all through the suspension range (?). Setting it a little below the factory level is still okay as the air chamber is still a bit small from the factory since they use weaker springs.

[ohiorider_imp]

Bob,

I know you had them set up your emulators, so you probably don't know what they did. Is there a way to call and get that info?

On emulators, there is no adjustment for the rebound damping other than picking the oil viscosity. Once picked, you have to make changes to the compression damping side. There are 3 things you could do - it depends on what is guiding the end result. The 3 changes are picking the GVE spring (yellow, blue or silver), setting the preload on that spring and how many pressure relief holes (it comes with 2, but you can add 2 more). For my GVE's I use only 10 wt, the blue springs and set the GVE preload amount close to max preload with a total 4 holes.

My first thought is that the 20 wt oil is pretty heavy. If its because you need stout rebound damping, then okay but you better have made changes to the compression side - especially if you have changed to stiffer springs.

There is no harm in checking the oil level, but it sounds like there is harshness all through the suspension range (?). Setting it a little below the factory level is still okay as the air chamber is still a bit small from the factory since they use weaker springs.

Yes. I plan to contact Dan at Traxxion Dynamics and discuss.

Re the emulator valve springs, thanks for the info. I understood the emulators could be adjusted, but was unaware there were various rate springs for the valves.

I may have picked the wrong solution. I'm looking for a supple ride, not a track day type of suspension. Perhaps I'd be better off with a set of light progressive springs, and stock damper rods. Don't know. I'm not looking for a race bike suspension, only for something that rides like a lazy old BMW airhead. I know how to handle those old 'rubber cows.

Spacetiger, thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Bob

[PowerDubs_imp]

Quote:What I'm shooting for is suspension that lets me ride my CB solo over less than perfect road surfaces, but with a feel more like a cartridge fork vs damper tube. Not looking for firmer, but for more compliant

~~~~

I hope they are able to provide that- but based on what I have read, that kit tends to be more firm and sporty- which is a big part of my reason to buy the '17 Showa SDBV forks instead.


Sorry to hear you currently aren't happy with the ride. I'm hoping they can get it resolved for you- ideally at no cost since it appears you told them from the start what you were looking for ride wise. Fingers crossed.

[ohiorider_imp]

Quote:What I'm shooting for is suspension that lets me ride my CB solo over less than perfect road surfaces, but with a feel more like a cartridge fork vs damper tube. Not looking for firmer, but for more compliant

~~~~

I hope they are able to provide that- but based on what I have read, that kit tends to be more firm and sporty- which is a big part of my reason to buy the '17 Showa SDBV forks instead.


Sorry to hear you currently aren't happy with the ride. I'm hoping they can get it resolved for you- ideally at no cost since it appears you told them from the start what you were looking for ride wise. Fingers crossed.

Sorry to hear you currently aren't happy with the ride. I'm hoping they can get it resolved for you- ideally at no cost since it appears you told them from the start what you were looking for ride wise. Fingers crossed. Josh, I may have to eat crow (expensive crow at that,) to get the CB where I want it. Hope not. But if I can't get the bike where I want it with not too much more time and $$, she'll go on the block to help finance the purchase of a relatively low mileage BMW airhead (R100R 1991-1995.) I know these old bikes, having owned and still own a 1991 R100GS since 1991.

Thanks for expressing your thoughts that they may be able to resolve my issues.

Bob

[spacetiger_imp]

Bob,

I know you had them set up your emulators, so you probably don't know what they did. Is there a way to call and get that info?

On emulators, there is no adjustment for the rebound damping other than picking the oil viscosity. Once picked, you have to make changes to the compression damping side. There are 3 things you could do - it depends on what is guiding the end result. The 3 changes are picking the GVE spring (yellow, blue or silver), setting the preload on that spring and how many pressure relief holes (it comes with 2, but you can add 2 more). For my GVE's I use only 10 wt, the blue springs and set the GVE preload amount close to max preload with a total 4 holes.

My first thought is that the 20 wt oil is pretty heavy. If its because you need stout rebound damping, then okay but you better have made changes to the compression side - especially if you have changed to stiffer springs.

There is no harm in checking the oil level, but it sounds like there is harshness all through the suspension range (?). Setting it a little below the factory level is still okay as the air chamber is still a bit small from the factory since they use weaker springs.

Yes. I plan to contact Dan at Traxxion Dynamics and discuss.

Re the emulator valve springs, thanks for the info. I understood the emulators could be adjusted, but was unaware there were various rate springs for the valves.

I may have picked the wrong solution. I'm looking for a supple ride, not a track day type of suspension. Perhaps I'd be better off with a set of light progressive springs, and stock damper rods. Don't know. I'm not looking for a race bike suspension, only for something that rides like a lazy old BMW airhead. I know how to handle those old 'rubber cows.

Spacetiger, thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Bob

Yes. I plan to contact Dan at Traxxion Dynamics and discuss.

Re the emulator valve springs, thanks for the info. I understood the emulators could be adjusted, but was unaware there were various rate springs for the valves.

I may have picked the wrong solution. I'm looking for a supple ride, not a track day type of suspension. Perhaps I'd be better off with a set of light progressive springs, and stock damper rods. Don't know. I'm not looking for a race bike suspension, only for something that rides like a lazy old BMW airhead. I know how to handle those old 'rubber cows.

Spacetiger, thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Bob
Bob,

My comments to adjusting your emulators is not to make it more into a sportbike ride. You can make the adjustments to gain a more supple ride. The set up I cited is the one I run in my Harley Davidson XL1200T. The key is to not have to much compression damping with stiffer springs.

I would suggest you not go with progressive springs. You really gain a net progressive rate spring because of the "air spring" that is set up by your oil fill level. If you use linear rate springs, you will turn them into a net progressive rate when the oil is in. You have to really control the column of components you put into the fork to get a straight rate overall spring. If you move into this direction, you would be making the bike more into a track capable ride which might not be the street ride you are looking for.

Keep us posted on what they tell you. As a side not, do you know what rate spring they put in for you?

Jerry

[ohiorider_imp]

Bob,

I know you had them set up your emulators, so you probably don't know what they did. Is there a way to call and get that info?

On emulators, there is no adjustment for the rebound damping other than picking the oil viscosity. Once picked, you have to make changes to the compression damping side. There are 3 things you could do - it depends on what is guiding the end result. The 3 changes are picking the GVE spring (yellow, blue or silver), setting the preload on that spring and how many pressure relief holes (it comes with 2, but you can add 2 more). For my GVE's I use only 10 wt, the blue springs and set the GVE preload amount close to max preload with a total 4 holes.

My first thought is that the 20 wt oil is pretty heavy. If its because you need stout rebound damping, then okay but you better have made changes to the compression side - especially if you have changed to stiffer springs.

There is no harm in checking the oil level, but it sounds like there is harshness all through the suspension range (?). Setting it a little below the factory level is still okay as the air chamber is still a bit small from the factory since they use weaker springs.

Yes. I plan to contact Dan at Traxxion Dynamics and discuss.

Re the emulator valve springs, thanks for the info. I understood the emulators could be adjusted, but was unaware there were various rate springs for the valves.

I may have picked the wrong solution. I'm looking for a supple ride, not a track day type of suspension. Perhaps I'd be better off with a set of light progressive springs, and stock damper rods. Don't know. I'm not looking for a race bike suspension, only for something that rides like a lazy old BMW airhead. I know how to handle those old 'rubber cows.

Spacetiger, thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Bob

Yes. I plan to contact Dan at Traxxion Dynamics and discuss.

Re the emulator valve springs, thanks for the info. I understood the emulators could be adjusted, but was unaware there were various rate springs for the valves.

I may have picked the wrong solution. I'm looking for a supple ride, not a track day type of suspension. Perhaps I'd be better off with a set of light progressive springs, and stock damper rods. Don't know. I'm not looking for a race bike suspension, only for something that rides like a lazy old BMW airhead. I know how to handle those old 'rubber cows.

Spacetiger, thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Bob
Bob,

My comments to adjusting your emulators is not to make it more into a sportbike ride. You can make the adjustments to gain a more supple ride. The set up I cited is the one I run in my Harley Davidson XL1200T. The key is to not have to much compression damping with stiffer springs.

I would suggest you not go with progressive springs. You really gain a net progressive rate spring because of the "air spring" that is set up by your oil fill level. If you use linear rate springs, you will turn them into a net progressive rate when the oil is in. You have to really control the column of components you put into the fork to get a straight rate overall spring. If you move into this direction, you would be making the bike more into a track capable ride which might not be the street ride you are looking for.

Keep us posted on what they tell you. As a side not, do you know what rate spring they put in for you?

Jerry

Yes. I plan to contact Dan at Traxxion Dynamics and discuss.

Re the emulator valve springs, thanks for the info. I understood the emulators could be adjusted, but was unaware there were various rate springs for the valves.

I may have picked the wrong solution. I'm looking for a supple ride, not a track day type of suspension. Perhaps I'd be better off with a set of light progressive springs, and stock damper rods. Don't know. I'm not looking for a race bike suspension, only for something that rides like a lazy old BMW airhead. I know how to handle those old 'rubber cows.

Spacetiger, thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Bob
Bob,

My comments to adjusting your emulators is not to make it more into a sportbike ride. You can make the adjustments to gain a more supple ride. The set up I cited is the one I run in my Harley Davidson XL1200T. The key is to not have to much compression damping with stiffer springs.

I would suggest you not go with progressive springs. You really gain a net progressive rate spring because of the "air spring" that is set up by your oil fill level. If you use linear rate springs, you will turn them into a net progressive rate when the oil is in. You have to really control the column of components you put into the fork to get a straight rate overall spring. If you move into this direction, you would be making the bike more into a track capable ride which might not be the street ride you are looking for.

Keep us posted on what they tell you. As a side not, do you know what rate spring they put in for you?

Jerry Jerry, I will be calling Traxxion Dynamics tomorrow, to get as much info as possible on the kit set-up Your info on the RTVs was really informative. One difference between the base RTV and the Trax Dyn kit might be the fact that Trax Dyn supplies their own damper rods. They are pre-drilled with larger holes, and their installation instructions call for removing the small aluminum cones where the Honda damper rods seat in the stock setup. Apparently, they're shaped differently where they seat into the slider. Has something to do with the rebound damping, I believe. Anyway, I'll keep you folks updated as I slog through the process.

Bob

[Guth_imp]

Bob, I'm curious to find out if TD is recommending drilling out the two extra soldered up bleed valve holes. (Of course I'm assuming that those extra two holes have yet to be drilled out and therefore are still full of solder.)


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