Engine turns over but no star after sitting few days

[SportsterDoc]

I’ll get a voltage meter and see if battery holds charge. It maybe an original battery from 2014 in there

As far as the kill switch goes, checkout Flynrider’s experience with his:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=11611

It’s not it I hear fuel pump prime and engine does crank with starter just doesn’t fire up.

Yes it can be push started but it shouldn't have to be.

After you got gas, it ran fine?

After I filled it up with premium it started and ran fine day after. Now two days later I’m having this issue

Premium from reliable source? (no water?)

[Honda_Fan_imp]

If the battery is still up, I would try starting again. Turn on key, let instrument needles sweep, keep your hand off throttle, press starter button, crank no more than 2 or 3 seconds. If it doesn't start after 2 or 3 attempts, we need to start digging into it a bit more.

I tried about 3-4 times and stopped after smelling faint gasoline smell from exhaust. Don’t want to foul plugs if I haven’t already.

[SportsterDoc]

At 0 F, battery capacity drops to about 50%
So, at 20 F battery capacity is probably 62% of normal.

If a cell is failing, I am surprised that it will even crank.

How much was it ridden before parked?
Did battery tender reach full charge indication?

Battery tender shows full charge. I guess I’ll have to wait for this weekend when it’s supposed to be in the 40s. It fired up fine before but who knows I’ll check manufacture date on the battery tomorrow.

The other cells can overcharge to compensate for a failing cell, but voltage quickly drops under load.

A voltage read
1. As soon as key is on, before headlight load sags voltage
2. While cranking

may be helpful

[Honda_Fan_imp]

I’ll get a voltage meter and see if battery holds charge. It maybe an original battery from 2014 in there

As far as the kill switch goes, checkout Flynrider’s experience with his:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=11611

It’s not it I hear fuel pump prime and engine does crank with starter just doesn’t fire up.

Yes it can be push started but it shouldn't have to be.

After you got gas, it ran fine?

After I filled it up with premium it started and ran fine day after. Now two days later I’m having this issue

Premium from reliable source? (no water?)

Premium from reliable source? (no water?)
BP gas station so it’s pretty reliable as I filled up numerous times there before with no issues.

At 0 F, battery capacity drops to about 50%
So, at 20 F battery capacity is probably 62% of normal.

If a cell is failing, I am surprised that it will even crank.

How much was it ridden before parked?
Did battery tender reach full charge indication?

Battery tender shows full charge. I guess I’ll have to wait for this weekend when it’s supposed to be in the 40s. It fired up fine before but who knows I’ll check manufacture date on the battery tomorrow.

The other cells can overcharge to compensate for a failing cell, but voltage quickly drops under load.

A voltage read
1. As soon as key is on, before headlight load sags voltage
2. While cranking

may be helpful

The other cells can overcharge to compensate for a failing cell, but voltage quickly drops under load.

A voltage read
1. As soon as key is on, before headlight load sags voltage
2. While cranking

may be helpful
Would the engine crank over still if they are bad?

[GoldOxide_imp]

Bike should start even at -30C. I have the original '14 battery - in my case no problems. But true battery health can only be determined with battery load test. The Doc provides a few clues above.

Could it just be a freak chance the engine got flooded? It happens, although not on my CB yet.

Don't worry about the issue of plug foul. Once the engine gets hot again the residue will be burned and ejected. Gasoline is light and a cleaner too. It is oil that sticks around and fouls.

Finally yes, crappy gas with a bit of water can cause a line block, or just a low tank for too long during the cold spell where condensation may have developed and froze.

[SportsterDoc]

I’ll get a voltage meter and see if battery holds charge. It maybe an original battery from 2014 in there

As far as the kill switch goes, checkout Flynrider’s experience with his:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=11611

It’s not it I hear fuel pump prime and engine does crank with starter just doesn’t fire up.

Yes it can be push started but it shouldn't have to be.

After you got gas, it ran fine?

After I filled it up with premium it started and ran fine day after. Now two days later I’m having this issue

Premium from reliable source? (no water?)

Premium from reliable source? (no water?)
BP gas station so it’s pretty reliable as I filled up numerous times there before with no issues.

At 0 F, battery capacity drops to about 50%
So, at 20 F battery capacity is probably 62% of normal.

If a cell is failing, I am surprised that it will even crank.

How much was it ridden before parked?
Did battery tender reach full charge indication?

Battery tender shows full charge. I guess I’ll have to wait for this weekend when it’s supposed to be in the 40s. It fired up fine before but who knows I’ll check manufacture date on the battery tomorrow.

The other cells can overcharge to compensate for a failing cell, but voltage quickly drops under load.

A voltage read
1. As soon as key is on, before headlight load sags voltage
2. While cranking

may be helpful

The other cells can overcharge to compensate for a failing cell, but voltage quickly drops under load.

A voltage read
1. As soon as key is on, before headlight load sags voltage
2. While cranking

may be helpful
Would the engine crank over still if they are bad?

Usually only one bad cell retires a battery.

An AGM is 12.8 volts, fully charged = 2.133 volts per cell
Lead-acid is 12.6 volts, fully charged = 2.1 volts per cell

Lose a cell on AGM limits voltage to 10.67 volts, less voltage sag from the starter.

Lose a cell on a lead-acid limits voltage to 10.5 volts, less voltage sag from the starter.

Not sure I answered your question, but voltages are very helpful.

A basic load tester is simply resistors simulating starter load and measures voltage drop.

Many sources advise that down to 10.0 volts is OK, but I don't like to see under 10.5
Side note:
Low battery voltage is a vicious circle.
A 1.4 KW starter (did not check what the CB is), draws 111 amps at 12.6 volts.
At 10.5 volts, it would draw 133 amps, a ~20% increase
At 10 volts, it would draw 140 amps, a ~26% over full voltage.

[rboe]

I"m suspecting the battery. Have it load tested, or, if your charger is smart, it can tell you if the battery is tired or not and if it is just replace it. Cheaper to jump a known good battery on the bike and see what she does.

If water in the gas is suspected you can always try Heat (which is adding ethanol ).

My old 550 would crank just fine when it was COLD but had no juice leftover to spark the plugs. So money is on the battery.

I suppose you could tie in a voltage meter and see how bad the voltage drop is once you hit the magic e button.

[SportsterDoc]

I"m suspecting the battery. Have it load tested, or, if your charger is smart, it can tell you if the battery is tired or not and if it is just replace it. Cheaper to jump a known good battery on the bike and see what she does.

If water in the gas is suspected you can always try Heat (which is adding ethanol ).

My old 550 would crank just fine when it was COLD but had no juice leftover to spark the plugs. So money is on the battery.

I suppose you could tie in a voltage meter and see how bad the voltage drop is once you hit the magic e button.

Yep, post 13, but since the solenoid is not chattering, that may not be the issue.

Need voltages and if there is spark or not.

[rboe]

Dang, I missed that!

[Honda_Fan_imp]

I have a battery tester will try it tomorrow.