cb1100 RS wheel conversion

[misterprofessionality]

yea, that pretty much tears it. this is definitely going to be an aftermarket wheel project. I have to make sure the aftermarket wheels were not made for the RS too. that really narrows down the field. in fact, I think it knocks out the galeforce wheels from Webike entirely.

I'm also getting some data from outside the forum about bike geometry from some self-proclaimed suspension experts who say that 17" wheels on this bike will have the opposite effect that i'm going for, meaning the handling will get worse.

My final secret alternative is to do a lot of research on tires and simply find out what the absolute *best* tire for our 18" wheels is and stay with 18's after all.

[Houtman_imp]

You might want to look at the Continental Trail Attack 3 in 150/70 18 .
it is a 90/10 tire and still perfect on the road but probably not all that great off road. This one is tubeless but also tubed tires available but I THINK only in 140 .

[kennyw]

yea, that pretty much tears it. this is definitely going to be an aftermarket wheel project. I have to make sure the aftermarket wheels were not made for the RS too. that really narrows down the field. in fact, I think it knocks out the galeforce wheels from Webike entirely.

I'm also getting some data from outside the forum about bike geometry from some self-proclaimed suspension experts who say that 17" wheels on this bike will have the opposite effect that i'm going for, meaning the handling will get worse.

My final secret alternative is to do a lot of research on tires and simply find out what the absolute *best* tire for our 18" wheels is and stay with 18's after all.

The diameter of the wheel has ZERO effect on handling. It is the outside diameter and width of the tire that matters. You can get a 17" tire with identical OD and width as the stock 18" tire and have zero change. It would be an expensive exercise for zero change though.

[Cormanus]

kennyw, surely putting 17” wheels on the bike is likely to reduce the OD of the wheel and therefore affect handling?

[Aussieflyer]

Cormanus possibly just a terminology thing ... Wheel = Rim + Tyre???

I think Kennyw is on the money in relation to the effect of the overall diameter of the entire wheel assembly (rim plus tyre) in regards to ONE condition affecting handling. If I'm understanding Kennyw's point correctly he's saying that a 17" wheel with a wide but low profile tyre may have the same or similar outside diameter as an 18" wheel with a narrow but taller profile tyre, and if you could fit and compare these two combinations you would likely not notice much if any handling difference. In that situation the geometry of the bike would not be changed however what may be noticeable is that a wider tyre will have an impact on handling and usually makes it worse, but maybe not by much. Many on this forum have tried the 160 vs 140 rears and report that there isn't any appreciable difference in handing but a 180 vs 140 difference should be noticeable. Whilst on the subject if wheels another aspect of wheel assemblies that does affect handling is the overall weight. The lighter they are, the less inertia they have, the more quickly you can change direction, accelerate / decelerate, and the easier it is for the bike's suspension to manage them over the bumps.


After all my waffling on about wheels our CB is not a high performance bile so all this doesn't really mean much ... but I am looking forward to reading about the difference a new set of really expensive magnesium wheels make to the OP's bike.

[Cormanus]

Thanks, Aussieflyer. I'm still confused, I think. I took kennyw's post to mean what you said: wheel = rim + tyre. I took the diameter to be the diameter of the wheel. A 17" rim is immediately going to reduce the diameter by 1" so surely you'd have to put a higher profile tyre on it to achieve the same diameter as an 18" wheel with a standard tyre.

[Aussieflyer]

Thanks, Aussieflyer. I'm still confused, I think. I took kennyw's post to mean what you said: wheel = rim + tyre. I took the diameter to be the diameter of the wheel. A 17" rim is immediately going to reduce the diameter by 1" so surely you'd have to put a higher profile tyre on it to achieve the same diameter as an 18" wheel with a standard tyre.

Sorry mate I have a way of making simple things sound complicated ... or so Mrs Flyer often tells me!

You are correct assuming the tyre width is a constant. Below are some examples of Bridgestone's current range which all have a 655mm outside diameter:

T31 - 140/70 x 18
T31 - 160/70 x 17
RS10 - 200/55 x 17

[misterprofessionality]

You might want to look at the Continental Trail Attack 3 in 150/70 18 .
it is a 90/10 tire and still perfect on the road but probably not all that great off road. This one is tubeless but also tubed tires available but I THINK only in 140 .

Well, I won't need any off road capability, but you've set me on a good track. it seems Conti makes a Road Attack 3 that is getting some good reviews. I'll have a strong look at that one in the event it turns out to be smarter to just keep the 18" wheels.

One day these PR3's aren't going to be available at all anymore and i'm gonna have to find a replacement.

yea, that pretty much tears it. this is definitely going to be an aftermarket wheel project. I have to make sure the aftermarket wheels were not made for the RS too. that really narrows down the field. in fact, I think it knocks out the galeforce wheels from Webike entirely.

I'm also getting some data from outside the forum about bike geometry from some self-proclaimed suspension experts who say that 17" wheels on this bike will have the opposite effect that i'm going for, meaning the handling will get worse.

My final secret alternative is to do a lot of research on tires and simply find out what the absolute *best* tire for our 18" wheels is and stay with 18's after all.

The diameter of the wheel has ZERO effect on handling. It is the outside diameter and width of the tire that matters. You can get a 17" tire with identical OD and width as the stock 18" tire and have zero change. It would be an expensive exercise for zero change though.

I guess the key there would be to find out what the final OD is on, say a Michelin Pilot Road 5 180/70 r17 rear tire on a 17" rim vs. a Michelin PR3 160/60 r18 rear tire on a 18" rim. this math is beyond my ken.

[Randy B]

You might want to look at the Continental Trail Attack 3 in 150/70 18 .
it is a 90/10 tire and still perfect on the road but probably not all that great off road. This one is tubeless but also tubed tires available but I THINK only in 140 .

Well, I won't need any off road capability, but you've set me on a good track. it seems Conti makes a Road Attack 3 that is getting some good reviews. I'll have a strong look at that one in the event it turns out to be smarter to just keep the 18" wheels.

One day these PR3's aren't going to be available at all anymore and i'm gonna have to find a replacement.

yea, that pretty much tears it. this is definitely going to be an aftermarket wheel project. I have to make sure the aftermarket wheels were not made for the RS too. that really narrows down the field. in fact, I think it knocks out the galeforce wheels from Webike entirely.

I'm also getting some data from outside the forum about bike geometry from some self-proclaimed suspension experts who say that 17" wheels on this bike will have the opposite effect that i'm going for, meaning the handling will get worse.

My final secret alternative is to do a lot of research on tires and simply find out what the absolute *best* tire for our 18" wheels is and stay with 18's after all.

The diameter of the wheel has ZERO effect on handling. It is the outside diameter and width of the tire that matters. You can get a 17" tire with identical OD and width as the stock 18" tire and have zero change. It would be an expensive exercise for zero change though.

I guess the key there would be to find out what the final OD is on, say a Michelin Pilot Road 5 180/70 r17 rear tire on a 17" rim vs. a Michelin PR3 160/60 r18 rear tire on a 18" rim. this math is beyond my ken.

All you need to do is to look up the specs on the tires you want to compare.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tir...-180-70r17

This is a different size comparison
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tir...-180-60r17

[peterbaron]

You might want to look at the Continental Trail Attack 3 in 150/70 18 .
it is a 90/10 tire and still perfect on the road but probably not all that great off road. This one is tubeless but also tubed tires available but I THINK only in 140 .

Well, I won't need any off road capability, but you've set me on a good track. it seems Conti makes a Road Attack 3 that is getting some good reviews. I'll have a strong look at that one in the event it turns out to be smarter to just keep the 18" wheels.

One day these PR3's aren't going to be available at all anymore and i'm gonna have to find a replacement.

yea, that pretty much tears it. this is definitely going to be an aftermarket wheel project. I have to make sure the aftermarket wheels were not made for the RS too. that really narrows down the field. in fact, I think it knocks out the galeforce wheels from Webike entirely.

I'm also getting some data from outside the forum about bike geometry from some self-proclaimed suspension experts who say that 17" wheels on this bike will have the opposite effect that i'm going for, meaning the handling will get worse.

My final secret alternative is to do a lot of research on tires and simply find out what the absolute *best* tire for our 18" wheels is and stay with 18's after all.

The diameter of the wheel has ZERO effect on handling. It is the outside diameter and width of the tire that matters. You can get a 17" tire with identical OD and width as the stock 18" tire and have zero change. It would be an expensive exercise for zero change though.

I guess the key there would be to find out what the final OD is on, say a Michelin Pilot Road 5 180/70 r17 rear tire on a 17" rim vs. a Michelin PR3 160/60 r18 rear tire on a 18" rim. this math is beyond my ken.

Well, I won't need any off road capability, but you've set me on a good track. it seems Conti makes a Road Attack 3 that is getting some good reviews. I'll have a strong look at that one in the event it turns out to be smarter to just keep the 18" wheels.

One day these PR3's aren't going to be available at all anymore and i'm gonna have to find a replacement.

yea, that pretty much tears it. this is definitely going to be an aftermarket wheel project. I have to make sure the aftermarket wheels were not made for the RS too. that really narrows down the field. in fact, I think it knocks out the galeforce wheels from Webike entirely.

I'm also getting some data from outside the forum about bike geometry from some self-proclaimed suspension experts who say that 17" wheels on this bike will have the opposite effect that i'm going for, meaning the handling will get worse.

My final secret alternative is to do a lot of research on tires and simply find out what the absolute *best* tire for our 18" wheels is and stay with 18's after all.

The diameter of the wheel has ZERO effect on handling. It is the outside diameter and width of the tire that matters. You can get a 17" tire with identical OD and width as the stock 18" tire and have zero change. It would be an expensive exercise for zero change though.

I guess the key there would be to find out what the final OD is on, say a Michelin Pilot Road 5 180/70 r17 rear tire on a 17" rim vs. a Michelin PR3 160/60 r18 rear tire on a 18" rim. this math is beyond my ken.
MisterP,

Math is easy, now days...remember, forum members are here to help you, like a good family:
Here is direct answer to your question, everything you need:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tir...-160-60r18

For all your calculation , use tire calculator. Certain rules apply ( at least with cars):

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

Good luck with your eager project, calculate everything and study tire chart at least twice, prior spending monie$