Bar Weight Gap Fix?

[2017EX_imp]

Does anyone know how to fix the gap between the rubber grip, and the bar end weight? It is a brand new 2017 CB1100EX! I saw it when I picked up the bike, and figured if the dealer was willing to let it out the door like that, chances were good that I could do a better job of fixing it the right way without screwing anything up than they could ( sad ). I also do not believe Honda would approve of something so obviously sloppy from the factory. There is a groove machined into each weight that starts the smaller diameter of the weight. I would like only that groove to show between the weight and the rubber grip ( slightly less than 1/16th ). On the clutch side the extra showing between that groove and the grip is almost 5/16ths of an inch, and on the throttle side that extra gap is 1/16th of an inch. The switch housings on both sides are spot on, lining up with the locator dimple in the handlebar, and consequently the rubber grips are positioned correctly. Looking at shop manual diagram, the inner handle bar weight with locating clips that the external weights screw into, there is aparantly no adjustment to pull the weights in closer to the grips. Or did I miss something? At the moment, all I can think of is to have the appropriate amount of extra machined off each weight. There has got to be a better way, I would think! Pictures of each side attached. Any ideas?

[chync_imp]

I'm wondering if the weight insert is installed correctly? I might try removing it completely and reinstalling. You have to take off the grip to expose a hole in the bar where a spring loaded clip snaps into. If you press it in and have just the bar end screw in the end of the weight you can pull it out. If that clip hole wasn't drilled the correct distance from the end of the bar it could be causing the weight to stick out too far.


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[Archie_imp]

Does anyone know how to fix the gap between the rubber grip, and the bar end weight? It is a brand new 2017 CB1100EX! I saw it when I picked up the bike, and figured if the dealer was willing to let it out the door like that, chances were good that I could do a better job of fixing it the right way without screwing anything up than they could ( sad ). I also do not believe Honda would approve of something so obviously sloppy from the factory. There is a groove machined into each weight that starts the smaller diameter of the weight. I would like only that groove to show between the weight and the rubber grip ( slightly less than 1/16th ). On the clutch side the extra showing between that groove and the grip is almost 5/16ths of an inch, and on the throttle side that extra gap is 1/16th of an inch. The switch housings on both sides are spot on, lining up with the locator dimple in the handlebar, and consequently the rubber grips are positioned correctly. Looking at shop manual diagram, the inner handle bar weight with locating clips that the external weights screw into, there is aparantly no adjustment to pull the weights in closer to the grips. Or did I miss something? At the moment, all I can think of is to have the appropriate amount of extra machined off each weight. There has got to be a better way, I would think! Pictures of each side attached. Any ideas?

Weird. I noticed the exact same thing on my 2017!!

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[Guth_imp]

I would not want my bar end weights too close the the grips — especially the throttle side. Personally I'd consider 1/16" to be too close. Given the amount of play typically found in a throttle tube mechanism, it might allow the throttle side grip to rub up against the bar end weight. That could very well wreak havoc with your safety (particularly when wanting to de-accelerate in a hurry).

[2017EX_imp]

Good point, and well received Guth. I would have no problem widening the total gap to something like 1/8th, which is about where the throttle side is now, for safety sake. But, the clutch side gap is excessive by comparison.

[itstuantran_imp]

I think by defaut it has such gap from factory. It is same for my CB 2017 RS

[2017EX_imp]

Being extremely picky about my bikes, and being retired I have the time to figure out solutions to what I dont like. Apparently Honda did not account for the extra grip length on the throttle side caused by the gap between the rubber grip, and the switch housing. This can be seen as about a 1/4" wide space of white plastic throttle tube. When the inner bar end weight retaining holes were punched in the handle bar, that difference in length was not accounted for, and the clutch side retaining holes were punched at the same distance from the end of the handle bar as the throttle side. The result was a wider gap between the rubber grip end and the bar end on the clutch side. I bought a set of HVMP stainless Heavy Universal Bar ends as a starting point. Then I spent hours with a dial caliper to get the dimensions to have them machined down to the same size and shape as the stock bar ends. The difference though, is that there is a dedicated right ( throttle ) and left ( clutch ) bar end. The first step down on the right side is longer than the left. This first step down is retained from the stock design, and acts as a stop ( the bar end will not slide any farther into the handle bar ) to prevent jamming throttle twist. The second, and smallest step down slides inside the handle bar. The end result is uniform gap on both sides. The HVMP directions caution against loosening the retaining bolt too much any time the bar end is removed, to prevent the retaining nut from falling off inside the handle bar. I solved that with a stainless 7mm snap ring applied to the thread of the bolt ends, and a little dab of silicone to ensure it did not vibrate off over time. Removal of the stock bar ends is relatively easy. Here is how to get at the clutch side inner weight locking holes without removing or cutting the grip off: http://www.manicsalamander.com/media/519...emoval.pdf . The throttle side requires dismounting the switch housing, and sliding the throttle tube off to expose the locking holes. The stock bar ends are cast pot metal, chromed, so I believe the stainless is far superior. Once installed, the new bar ends are very solidly in place, but easy to remove if I ever wanted to. Stock "before" pictures are at the beginning of this thread, and I have posted during and after pictures here. If there is any interest from the membership, I will post PDFs of the mechanical drawings that any machinist could use to make these, either starting with HVMP parts as I did ( more costly ), or using stainless bar stock. The modified stainless bar ends weigh about 1 oz. less than stock.

[the Ferret]

Glad you got it figured out to your satisfaction.

[Nortoon_imp]

I tried to removed the bar end weights from my Honda CB500X when it was new so I could install softer handle grips. So I laughed when I read the simple 1-2-3 steps for removing the bar end weights.

Step 1. Grasp bar end to prevent it from rotating.
Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the bar end.

You would have to be Superman to be able to hold the bar end while removing the screw. After several failed attempts I used layers of duct tape to fasten the bar end to the clutch side grip. Trying to remove the screw with both hands failed.

So I fastened Vise Grip pliers to the shaft of the screw driver for leverage. I could feel the long screw flex and the layers of duct taped twisted, but the screw held.

I had to buy an impact driver to get the screw out. When it was finally free the treads at the end were twisted and rusty. Obviously installed with an air wrench or a Sumo Wrestler.

I bought a new screw and a pair of slip-on foam Grip Puppies handle grip covers. They slipped over the miserably uncomfortably Honda handle grips with some warm water and dish soap without any stress. No more cramped throttle hand or hard buzzy grips.

Later there was a post on the CB500X Forum about rolling the grip back to get to the bar end weight holding clip. Sounds easy. But the only thing harder than a CB seat is Honda handle bar grips.

Adding Grip Puppies over my CB1100 EX handle grips was the first mod I made.

[2017EX_imp]

I tried to removed the bar end weights from my Honda CB500X when it was new so I could install softer handle grips. So I laughed when I read the simple 1-2-3 steps for removing the bar end weights.

Step 1. Grasp bar end to prevent it from rotating.
Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the bar end.

You would have to be Superman to be able to hold the bar end while removing the screw. After several failed attempts I used layers of duct tape to fasten the bar end to the clutch side grip. Trying to remove the screw with both hands failed.

So I fastened Vise Grip pliers to the shaft of the screw driver for leverage. I could feel the long screw flex and the layers of duct taped twisted, but the screw held.

I had to buy an impact driver to get the screw out. When it was finally free the treads at the end were twisted and rusty. Obviously installed with an air wrench or a Sumo Wrestler.

I bought a new screw and a pair of slip-on foam Grip Puppies handle grip covers. They slipped over the miserably uncomfortably Honda handle grips with some warm water and dish soap without any stress. No more cramped throttle hand or hard buzzy grips.

Later there was a post on the CB500X Forum about rolling the grip back to get to the bar end weight holding clip. Sounds easy. But the only thing harder than a CB seat is Honda handle bar grips.

Adding Grip Puppies over my CB1100 EX handle grips was the first mod I made.

Wow! Sorry you had the problem. My bar end screws came off easy. I wrapped a piece of inner tube rubber around the bar end for a no slip grip, grabbed it with one hand, and unscrewed with a proper size Phillips screw driver with the other hand. The shop manual calls for replacing the screw after removal, but I guess that is because Honda wants to sell the part, with a new locking patch on the thread. As long as the screw head is not buggered up, a small dab of Blue Locktite will do just as well. I know that grip rubber can get hard after a while, and I thought I might have to soften them with Armorall, then heat the rubber with a hair dryer, but I had no problem rolling the end of the grip back just as depicted in the link I posted without having to do any of that.