Rear chrome rack from Honda

[Kyhiker1100_imp]

I recently picked up my special order rack from my dealer. I installed it the other day with some difficulty. If anyone has any questions about how to, let me know.

[howlindaug_imp]

Kyhiker1100,

Thanks for the offer, I'll be picking a rack up soon, but not sure if it will be the OEM or not. This link might have helped you though,

http://www.cb1100.co.uk/index.php/topic,140.0.html

[CBXBob_imp]

COO Case S28 and S50 Top Boxes are on sale at Twisted throttle. They are quick release off of the adapter plate. The adapter plate fits the Honda rack with minimal work. There are many options to fasten and takes 15 minutes or so . With the case off the adapter plate does not look out of place. But for occasional use it's not too time consuming to remove and re-install as needed. Also the blaze sport pannier system looks neat, though its not on sale.

[CB4ME_imp]

Installing the rear rack for the first time is best accomplished with a second set on hands.The rear turn signals get in the way of the bolts. However they bend out of the way.

I've had my rack on and off the bike several times. Swapping out the rear turn signals with the OEM Japan version helped. They are much smaller. I also loosely attach the front bolts before attempting the rear. Need both hands to hold everything in place.

[banjobart_imp]

I used a piece of tapered rod to align the last hole for the last bolt, that made the job much easier.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

1. Remove seat, cover the fuel tank and tail-light bracket and then pull a pair of sports socks over the indicators. The socks protect the chrome indicator housings from Allen keys and the various bolts as they are removed and replaced. The indicators themselves can be gently pulled or pushed to achieve clearance as required.
2. Loosen, to finger tight, the four retaining bolts.
3. Remove the front bolts (only) completely. The grip assembly (the silver bits running along the frame) should stay close to "in position". Place the rack roughly in position over the grip assembly and tail light area.
4. Place the front of the rack so that you can slide the (longer) front bolts through the rack, spacers and grip assembly through to the nuts that are fixed to the frame. Tighten to finger tight. The rack is now held in position by the front bolts and now sits atop the (covered) tail light assembly at the rear, or if you have the front bolts just tight enough, sitting above the assembly.
5. Remove the rear bolts. You will need to hold the nuts to stop them falling as they are not attached to the frame. Either that or let them drop and find them
6. Put the rear of the rack and spacers in position and, gently moving the indicators clear, slide in the (longer) rear bolts through the rack, spacers and metal indicator seals. Make sure these "seals", which seal off the indicator internals, are correctly positioned with their tabs correctly positioned.
7. The tricky bit is to start the nuts, by fingers, on to the bolts. To start this is achieved a flat and a bit at a time. Once started, jam the nuts ( I use my fingers) and then tighten the bolts.
8. Tighten all and remove protectors, replace seat.
9. Have a cold beer (WARNING - leave this step to last)

VOILA!

I remove and replace my rack at regular intervals. After the first couple of times it takes less than a few minutes. Some key points:
When fitting the front, square the rack so that you can fit the spacers, the rear squares itself when the front is finger tightened
Don't damage the indicators when pushing in the rear bolts
Make sure the indicator metal backs are positioned correctly

I apologize if I haven't been clear but am doing this away from my bike, one armed, and a few hours out of a general anaesthetic (bicep distal tendon rupture repair). I'm on opiates so it may all be totally unintelligible and I will get a laugh from this post a little further down the track.

Cheers
If you got that then removal is sorta just a reversal. Three months before I can straighten my left arm - @&$?! and bugger!

[Cormanus]

1. Remove seat, cover the fuel tank and tail-light bracket and then pull a pair of sports socks over the indicators. The socks protect the chrome indicator housings from Allen keys and the various bolts as they are removed and replaced. The indicators themselves can be gently pulled or pushed to achieve clearance as required.
2. Loosen, to finger tight, the four retaining bolts.
3. Remove the front bolts (only) completely. The grip assembly (the silver bits running along the frame) should stay close to "in position". Place the rack roughly in position over the grip assembly and tail light area.
4. Place the front of the rack so that you can slide the (longer) front bolts through the rack, spacers and grip assembly through to the nuts that are fixed to the frame. Tighten to finger tight. The rack is now held in position by the front bolts and now sits atop the (covered) tail light assembly at the rear, or if you have the front bolts just tight enough, sitting above the assembly.
5. Remove the rear bolts. You will need to hold the nuts to stop them falling as they are not attached to the frame. Either that or let them drop and find them
6. Put the rear of the rack and spacers in position and, gently moving the indicators clear, slide in the (longer) rear bolts through the rack, spacers and metal indicator seals. Make sure these "seals", which seal off the indicator internals, are correctly positioned with their tabs correctly positioned.
7. The tricky bit is to start the nuts, by fingers, on to the bolts. To start this is achieved a flat and a bit at a time. Once started, jam the nuts ( I use my fingers) and then tighten the bolts.
8. Tighten all and remove protectors, replace seat.
9. Have a cold beer (WARNING - leave this step to last)

VOILA!

I remove and replace my rack at regular intervals. After the first couple of times it takes less than a few minutes. Some key points:
When fitting the front, square the rack so that you can fit the spacers, the rear squares itself when the front is finger tightened
Don't damage the indicators when pushing in the rear bolts
Make sure the indicator metal backs are positioned correctly

I apologize if I haven't been clear but am doing this away from my bike, one armed, and a few hours out of a general anaesthetic (bicep distal tendon rupture repair). I'm on opiates so it may all be totally unintelligible and I will get a laugh from this post a little further down the track.

Cheers
If you got that then removal is sorta just a reversal. Three months before I can straighten my left arm - @&$?! and bugger!

Geez, mate, if you can be that clear half stoned, what are you like straight?

Hope the surgery was a success and you recover quickly and well.

How did the ride to Phillip Island go?

[the Ferret]

Excellent instructions Ptero. That will help new guys a bunch.

And I hope the arm heals fully and quickly, and you are back riding in no time.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

1. Remove seat, cover the fuel tank and tail-light bracket and then pull a pair of sports socks over the indicators. The socks protect the chrome indicator housings from Allen keys and the various bolts as they are removed and replaced. The indicators themselves can be gently pulled or pushed to achieve clearance as required.
2. Loosen, to finger tight, the four retaining bolts.
3. Remove the front bolts (only) completely. The grip assembly (the silver bits running along the frame) should stay close to "in position". Place the rack roughly in position over the grip assembly and tail light area.
4. Place the front of the rack so that you can slide the (longer) front bolts through the rack, spacers and grip assembly through to the nuts that are fixed to the frame. Tighten to finger tight. The rack is now held in position by the front bolts and now sits atop the (covered) tail light assembly at the rear, or if you have the front bolts just tight enough, sitting above the assembly.
5. Remove the rear bolts. You will need to hold the nuts to stop them falling as they are not attached to the frame. Either that or let them drop and find them
6. Put the rear of the rack and spacers in position and, gently moving the indicators clear, slide in the (longer) rear bolts through the rack, spacers and metal indicator seals. Make sure these "seals", which seal off the indicator internals, are correctly positioned with their tabs correctly positioned.
7. The tricky bit is to start the nuts, by fingers, on to the bolts. To start this is achieved a flat and a bit at a time. Once started, jam the nuts ( I use my fingers) and then tighten the bolts.
8. Tighten all and remove protectors, replace seat.
9. Have a cold beer (WARNING - leave this step to last)

VOILA!

I remove and replace my rack at regular intervals. After the first couple of times it takes less than a few minutes. Some key points:
When fitting the front, square the rack so that you can fit the spacers, the rear squares itself when the front is finger tightened
Don't damage the indicators when pushing in the rear bolts
Make sure the indicator metal backs are positioned correctly

I apologize if I haven't been clear but am doing this away from my bike, one armed, and a few hours out of a general anaesthetic (bicep distal tendon rupture repair). I'm on opiates so it may all be totally unintelligible and I will get a laugh from this post a little further down the track.

Cheers
If you got that then removal is sorta just a reversal. Three months before I can straighten my left arm - @&$?! and bugger!

Geez, mate, if you can be that clear half stoned, what are you like straight?

Hope the surgery was a success and you recover quickly and well.

How did the ride to Phillip Island go?

Went really well. 3000+kms. When I get myself together will post with a couple of photos.

Cheers and thanks.