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checking chain tension
#11
(05-16-2014, 01:17 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: But the manual says to rotate the rear wheel first. Won't that pull the slack out of the top? Then do the measurement at the bottom as shown and it should be good I would think.

Agree if the top stays straight but the front sprocket is free wheeling so it might not stay the same after you let go of the wheel. I think you rotate to find the tightest spot for measuring.
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#12
(05-16-2014, 01:28 AM)Deanohh_imp Wrote:
(05-16-2014, 01:17 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: But the manual says to rotate the rear wheel first. Won't that pull the slack out of the top? Then do the measurement at the bottom as shown and it should be good I would think.

Agree if the top stays straight but the front sprocket is free wheeling so it might not stay the same after you let go of the wheel. I think you rotate to find the tightest spot for measuring.

Agree if the top stays straight but the front sprocket is free wheeling so it might not stay the same after you let go of the wheel. I think you rotate to find the tightest spot for measuring.
I misunderstood waht popgun was referring to.That's to make sure their is no binding, that the wheel and axle are square and to check for binding links and tight spots. That has nothing to do with tension.
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#13
To find those tight links, I put a little spot of red paint on one of the side plate after wiping it clean, makes finding the tight links next time easy peasy.
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#14
I never had any tight links but are the same ones tight over and over again and what do you do about it when you find one?
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#15
(05-16-2014, 05:51 AM)Deanohh_imp Wrote: I never had any tight links but are the same ones tight over and over again and what do you do about it when you find one?

Dean I've never seen a stiff link, become un stiff on a modern bike. In the old days, you'd take out the master link, remove the chain and soak it in a pan of warm oil and work the link back and forth to loosen them up, but generally once it " kinks" as they call it, the chain must be replaced.
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#16
Yup. On an O-ring chain, a binding link usually indicates that the O-ring failed and the lube has departed the roller. With a damaged O-ring, there's no way to reliably get lube back into the roller (and keep it there). That usually means the chain is done for. You definitely do not want to ride with a binding link. The chain could snap at any time. Best case, you're stuck on the side of the road. Worst case you're spread all over the road.

If you were determined not to replace the chain, I suppose you could cut out the damaged link and replace it with a master link. This can open up another can of worms, since 99% of the broken chains I've seen were the result of an improperly installed master link.
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