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Remember, Silas had his wheels powder coated brown. Is it possible there is a layer of coating preventing the bearings from seating properly and leaving too much space for the inner sleeve? Just grasping at straws here.
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(09-08-2014, 08:35 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Remember, Silas had his wheels powder coated brown. Is it possible there is a layer of coating preventing the bearings from seating properly and leaving too much space for the inner sleeve? Just grasping at straws here.
That's hardly a grasp, that sounds spot on. If there is powder coating in the hub it will make the bearing sit farther out from the center anywhere from 0.001" - 0.005" on both sides.
Or someone didn't install the bearings correctly.
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Good thoughts gents! Hopefully this weekend I can take the wheels off and get to the bottom of this. It is really on the rear wheel at this point. Glad I asked the group. I will report back with my (hopefull) success
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Also if you are taking out the wheel bearings they MUST be replaced. So if someone removed your wheel bearings to powder coat and reinstalled the old ones they are probably destroyed. Get it up on the center stand and try to shake the wheel.
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Do not remove the tubes.They are there to prevent the inner race of the bearings being pushed inward too far causing the balls to ride out of their designed center position.
Also, it is very important not to over tighten the axle bolts that may cause the tube to "crush" slightly causing the same problem. It can lead to hot running bearings and ultimate failure. When torquing the axles try to go halfway between the max and min specs.
I have seen this condition due to over torquing. The wheel spins fine cold, but will drag when the bearing gets warm or hot.
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(09-08-2014, 10:34 PM)silascopathic_imp Wrote: Good thoughts gents! Hopefully this weekend I can take the wheels off and get to the bottom of this. It is really on the rear wheel at this point. Glad I asked the group. I will report back with my (hopefull) success
you're hearing what sounds like the spacer flop around while riding or turning the wheel? That sounds impossible. If the axle was torqued and the spacer was not squeezed between the outer spacers and bearing races, the bearings would have so much side force that the wheel would barely turn. You might be hearing the clack of a failed wheel bearing or something screwey with the driven hub or some other sound. As mentioned, the wheel bearings are ruined when removed and new must be installed (properly).
Last year you had a thread on your bad bearings after the powdercoat job. Did you ever have new bearings put in? This could be the same thing.
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(09-09-2014, 11:17 AM)Deanohh_imp Wrote: (09-08-2014, 10:34 PM)silascopathic_imp Wrote: Good thoughts gents! Hopefully this weekend I can take the wheels off and get to the bottom of this. It is really on the rear wheel at this point. Glad I asked the group. I will report back with my (hopefull) success
you're hearing what sounds like the spacer flop around while riding or turning the wheel? That sounds impossible. If the axle was torqued and the spacer was not squeezed between the outer spacers and bearing races, the bearings would have so much side force that the wheel would barely turn. You might be hearing the clack of a failed wheel bearing or something screwey with the driven hub or some other sound. As mentioned, the wheel bearings are ruined when removed and new must be installed (properly).
Last year you had a thread on your bad bearings after the powdercoat job. Did you ever have new bearings put in? This could be the same thing.
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Great help and info gents
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Tintoy has it right. It is absolutely necessary. Your wheel bearings are not designed to be preloaded. Without the sleeve the full pressure of axle nut torque would applied to the wheel bearings from the inner race, through the ball bearings, to the outer race. This would break them. The spacer makes it possible to torque the axle nut properly to secure the rear axle in the swing arm and not apply preload to the wheel bearings.