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Is the inner axel sleeve really necessary?
#1
Hey friends,

Is the inner axel sleeve really necessary? If you remove your front and rear wheels, there is a gasket, bearing, inner sleeve, bearing and another gasket, that the entire axel goes through.

What I have noticed is that inner sleeve, tends to make a knocking sound which drives me crazy. Can that inner sleeve just be removed? I see no reason why or what it even is doing?

[url=http://s561.photobucket.com/user/SIGFREAK239/media/MGC4F1440-1.jpg.html][Image: 1cc557062f2961aba6e22c8d98d11303.jpg]

[url=http://s561.photobucket.com/user/SIGFREAK239/media/MGC4F1940.jpg.html][Image: 57e3741845d52cf7d680573206e73d02.jpg]
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#2
I'm sure its in the design for a reason. Possible to put pressure on the wheel bearings when you tighten up the wheel. Just had my front up on the jack and only hear brake pad friction. No noise coming from the inner hub front or back. Did you lube the shaft well on install??
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#3
I'm usually fairly generous on grease with those collars. That will eliminate all knocking around. I have used wheel bearing grease there, but given its non-essential loads, marine grease would prove more water resistant. I'd leave it though as it prevents the bearings from scooting too far in from tightening.

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk
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#4
I'm with CIP57, it was put there for a reason and I wouldn't remove it.
The engineers and designers know more than we do and I would try to work around it for a solution to your problem.
Just my humble opinion Wink
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#5
Thanks for the help gents! I think there is not enough grease on the axel to be honest. Time to rip the wheel off again lol
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#6
Eric Buell Racing removed the entire inner hub from their wheels. They say it contributes nothing significant to the wheels strength. But I'd leave the sleeve in...
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#7
I would think it is there the either put a preload on the bearings or it is used as a spacer for the bearing and shouldn't be flopping around in there. I haven't heard any clunking/knocking so I'm not sure as to the noise you are hearing.
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#8
If you take either wheel off, there is a designated spot for the bearings. there is no way that they can push through and they are held in by a gasket. the inner sleeve litterally just slides in... is seems really unimportant.. anyone have an email for Eric Buell Racing? I would love to talk with him about it.
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#9
Did you try it without it in there?
Recently did tires on mine and both of my distance collars were snug between the bearings. You may want to make sure both bearings are seated. It's a bigger diameter than the inner race of the bearing. Nothing just slides in. Its installed after one bearing is installed then the next. To remove it you would have to remove a bearing. Nothing is held in by gaskets (dust shields) other than fluids and dust shields keep contaminants out. Bearings are a friction fit that must be pulled out and driven in.

Here is an exact quote from the manual "drive in a new right wheel bearing squarely until it is fully seated on the hub. Install the distance collar, then drive in the new left bearing until it is seated on the distance collar"
So yes the right side uses the lip in the hub when you drive in the bearing then the left side will go in as far as needed and probably not touch that lip. This is used to "center" the rim and brake discs.
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#10
if the inner tube is flopping around then you have not got the bearings in correctly when correctly fitted there is no way the tube can just flop around , without the inner tune when the wheel is correctly tensioned it sits on the inner race of the bearing both sides without it your bearings will collapse
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