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(03-16-2015, 01:38 PM)treytexag_imp Wrote: (03-16-2015, 01:30 PM)TINK_imp Wrote: Be sure to check your initial factory chain adjustment as soon as possible. In my case the chain was adjusted too tight at 2.0 miles on the odometer. Don't assume the factory or dealer setup of your chain correctly.
I was wondering about this. My chain seems VERY tight - bike has 50 miles on it now - 23 when I bought it new from the dealer.
In the ferret's post above, he says . . . ."but to adjust if it needs it, put bike on center stand, loosen axle nut on right side (size depends on it its a 13 or 14), turn adjustment bolts (8mm wrench) an equal number of turns (probably less than 1/4 turn will be needed) Check slack and check to make sure alignment marks are the same on both sides, when slack is correct from 1" to 1.4" and marks are same on both sides, tighten axle nut.".
Does this mean that the chain should not be tighter than the minimum 1 inch "small" end of the range shown? IOW's, if the correctly measured slack on my "new" chain is less than 1 inch, I should loosen it up?
Definitely. If it's too tight it will accelerate chain and sprocket wear.
I did my first adjustment at around 4K miles. In the first 2K miles it stretched close to the loose end of the spec, then it went another 2K with almost no stretching. I've always kept mine around the loose end of the spec to minimize wear and adjustments.
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I checked mine when new and it was OK but needed adjustment at the 600 mile check.
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So, let's talk about those chain adjuster markings...
Before you rely on the accuracy of the marks on the chain adjusters, be sure to check your rear wheels alignment.
I have found that the adjuster makes may not be symmetrical.
The old rear wheel string alignment is the best way to assure your chain adjuster marks are accurate.
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(03-16-2015, 06:15 AM)DGShannon_imp Wrote: Important thing to remember is, that due to geometry, the chain gets tighter as the suspension compresses (swingarm travels up). The is why leaving a certain amount of slack in the chain is important. You are not making your adjustments at the point where the chain will be at it's tightest.
Unless of course this is your regular riding...lol
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That sprocket looks like the blade that got stolen from my saw!
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(03-17-2015, 08:18 PM)TINK_imp Wrote: So, let's talk about those chain adjuster markings...
Before you rely on the accuracy of the marks on the chain adjusters, be sure to check your rear wheels alignment.
I have found that the adjuster makes may not be symmetrical.
The old rear wheel string alignment is the best way to assure your chain adjuster marks are accurate.
Very good point. I checked the wheel alignment on my CB at the first chain adjustment and the ledger marks were spot on. The adjuster marks on my Triumph Tiger were off however.
