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(08-28-2014, 11:57 AM)kDiqq_imp Wrote: Matt,
Please continue to throw out ideas!! It helps a ton, especially with how regularly I am wrong 
I just passed up 1200 miles.
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1200 miles! Oh that just hurts... i can't logically think up a way for your oil pump to be making that noise only after 2:30 of warming up till hot and still actually oil the engine and it hasn't been spewing out metal when you change your oil. I think once someone gets the oil pan off they are going to find something that i normally put on my shelf of wtf. It could be anything from main bearing bolt loose to a missing wrist pin clip... but it's something that is fine at first then goes through the twilight zone then is fine when hot. That's a fun one i wish i could get my hands on it.
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Kdiqq - what oil are you running in there now? Mine made a similar sound when I used 10w40 for my 600 mile oil change. Replaced the filter and used. 10w30 and the noise was gone.
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the noise you hear in the video is also on my bike, check well catalysed exhaust system, I'm pretty sure is the problem, you should remove the final exhaust part and check if the smoke filter vibrates.
Angelo
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Angelo, I isolated the noise with a stethoscope. Its coming from the oil pan, in front of the catalyst. I did check though, thank you.
Todd, it made this noise from day one. Just progressively got louder and louder. I've gone to Amsoil 10-40 and the clutch feels far better and every 'normal' noise has gotten quieter lol just this one seems to be getting louder with time
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(08-28-2014, 01:08 PM)Todd_K_imp Wrote: Kdiqq - what oil are you running in there now? Mine made a similar sound when I used 10w40 for my 600 mile oil change. Replaced the filter and used. 10w30 and the noise was gone.
Yes sir, mine made the exact same noise as in the video he just posted after my first oil change. There is a video on here from DBUSTER with the exact same noise. Do a search and take a few hours to read through the thread. The oil is not returning fast enough causing the knock in your lower end. If it was a mechanical issue it would not come and go. Flush your crankcase once or twice with 10-30 full synthetic and change oil filters, the cheapest fix you'll find. One quart of oil stays in the oil cooler so be sure to flush the system well.
Edit:
Here you go:::
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....buster+oil
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I'm extremely unconvinced of this. In its warm up period is when it's happening. It passes through being a 30w. I do believe that changing the oil may make it quieter, but it won't fix it. And I know that using the weight of oil suggested for my climate is offering better protection than a 10w30, especially a Honda brand oil.
That being said, thank you for providing the thread!
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Eh, F it. Putting 10w30 on order if it keeps me from bringing her to the dealer... I hate hate HATE that this eliminates the noise...
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Can one of you guys explain just what piston slap is and what it sounds like and any bad things it does? Thanks. I gots to know
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(08-28-2014, 09:55 PM)kDiqq_imp Wrote: I'm extremely unconvinced of this. In its warm up period is when it's happening. It passes through being a 30w. I do believe that changing the oil may make it quieter, but it won't fix it. And I know that using the weight of oil suggested for my climate is offering better protection than a 10w30, especially a Honda brand oil.
That being said, thank you for providing the thread!
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Eh, F it. Putting 10w30 on order if it keeps me from bringing her to the dealer... I hate hate HATE that this eliminates the noise...
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Use OEM filters for flow rate
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(08-28-2014, 10:10 PM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: Can one of you guys explain just what piston slap is and what it sounds like and any bad things it does? Thanks. I gots to know
I'd be happy to! The best example I know of it is in aluminum motors. Specifically GM aluminum motors. To be out simpky, the piston at any given moment is too small or the bore too large and the sides of the piston are knocking against the bore. Since the rings have room to expand, a compression loss is not experienced. Usually this occurs because the pistons and sleeve are made of different materials and these materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion. So, in the case of steel sleeved, aluminum motors, the bores will 'open up' when it's cold and as it warms up, the block will expand just enough to bring that gap closed enough to stop the slapping. Sounds awful, but typically doesn't do any damage.
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Thans KDigg!
I've heard of piston slap, but never really knew what it was, or the causes. Great explaination.
