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My point of reference may be off but mine has always made the rattle. With every oil. I believe that the backlash was set right on the limit of rattling. And not every 10-30 will test as a 10-30. Good example being Mobils 10-30 auto oil tests as a heavy 20 weight when warm. I think this difference in manufacturing is what causes the rattle sometimes combined with the backlash being at its limit. This is just IMO though.
The drain back thing bothers me. I don't want my oil in the pan, I want it in the engine. It needs to be coating everything and staying there. The only time drain back matters is if the sump is sucked dry. And I've never had the oil pressure light trip.
So the way I see it, why do I want my oil getting quickly back to the pan?! It circulates GREAT and is sticking to the parts it's made to protect and there's still plenty of oil to maintain oil pressure. This is ideal!! You don't want the oil rushing in to the sight glass. It needs to be just fast enough to keep up with the pump period. You don't want that oil coming off moving parts and coming back in to the pan.
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When my bike is hot it sounds like holy death. I figured that was normal. I still do.
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(08-27-2014, 02:40 AM)AzBob_imp Wrote: When my bike is hot it sounds like holy death. I figured that was normal. I still do.
It's not a Harley.
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Shoot, mine sounds like a little sewing machine haha you may have an issue...
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Also, thanks a ton for uploading that page on setting backlash!
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That's just from memory. I read it last night so wait till i get home and i will give you all the info and details from the FSM. If you guys want me to demo it from cold as if you just rebuilt the motor it'll have to wait till the weekend. I'm planning on doing the warmed up adjustment today when i get home. I'm interested in comparing where it stops whining vs where it's set now.
(08-27-2014, 03:12 AM)kDiqq_imp Wrote: Shoot, mine sounds like a little sewing machine haha you may have an issue...
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Also, thanks a ton for uploading that page on setting backlash!
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That's a good observation. I will post my results too. Just really anxious to address this chatter.
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[url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php]
![[Image: 07237a944c38c8b4b011345476716875.gif]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201408/07237a944c38c8b4b011345476716875.gif)
I'm very interested too. Keep us posted.......
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Ok so... I just adjusted my balancer. I loosened it a bit to hear the difference and the over tightened it enough to make it sound different then brought it back to where I am comfortable with it. All you need is a 10mm wrench and a large flat blade screw driver. Initial setup is with it cold and you do it not running. Once you get everything else hooked back up after reinstalling your engine you warm it up and adjust from there. I broke the pinch bolt loose and then snuggled it back up and started the engine. I could have went back to the fourth graduation but i figure I'll take it one at a time. To tight and you'll wear out the balancer gear, bearing and shaft. With all the other noises the engine makes you'll have to listen to it for yourself but you can hear the difference it makes in person.
http://youtu.be/tnWHW8Z_2U8
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Matt,
You're the man.
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(08-27-2014, 10:26 AM)kDiqq_imp Wrote: Matt,
You're the man.
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It's a "one beer" job by the way. Literally after the engine is warmed up it takes just a few seconds to loosen, adjust, say that's to much and back it off and retighten the pinch bolt. Chains break in and "stretch" a bit. Hence the reason for automatic cam/timing chain tensioners but this is a manual tensioner so it will need this eventually if not already...
