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Name that part
#21
Thanks curly - I guess you win the award.

As cormanus says - what's suppose to go there? If I remove it will the bike self destruct or (worse) inadvertently fire the ejector seat?

The bike does pop a bit on decal with the 4-4 (even sitting in neutral with no throttle it makes the odd pop which is a new experience to me). I'd also rather get rid of it but would like to know what I might replace it with?

Thanks again for the fun and serious posts.
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#22
Cormanus, most likely you unplug the OEM connector and plug in the "knob box" into both connector ends, tying it into the circuit.

R748, you may have to do the PAIR valve mod to stop the popping on decel. Pretty common need with exhaust mods. There is a How-To on it. Not hard to do.
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#23
Ah, yes, popgun. I should have looked more closely at the photos. I can now see what you mean. It looks a slightly dodgy mod in my view.
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#24
Thanks Popgun. I did some reading on this in the forum after reading your reply. I did similar with previous bikes (most noticeably removing some serious plumbing and assorted valves/junk from my M1100 when fitting a full 2-1 system.

I'll be removing some plumbing then tomorrow evening Smile

Would you recommend an o2 sensor removal while i'm at it? I'd normally do this unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ride safe !
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#25
I really can't say either way about the O2 sensor. There has been some interesting discussion about how the system works and why you can remove it or why you shouldn't. Search around and you'll find discussion on it.

About all I can say about that is my bike is stock in regards to engine, exhaust and ECM.
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#26
When I got my used 2013 it was equipped with a full yosh exhaust and popped on decel and shifting. I put a marble in the hose between the air box and the AIR system which fixed that problem. Search this forum for details, but basically the AIR system injects air at the exhaust valves to burn off unburned fuel which occurs as a rich condition when the throttle valves close on decel or between shifts. It's been 4000 miles now and no obvious downside. I think Motogeezer deleted the whole system. The pop at idle may be due to excessive lean condition at idle, which can be eliminated with an O2 sensor bypass plug which has also been discussed here. Too lean will also result in incomplete combustion and from what I have read here and in my own experience the purpose of the O2 sensor on this bike is to lean the mix at idle primarily. The altitude (barometric) and temp compensations are handled by other sensors, so it doesn't affect mileage or performance significantly. Don't just disconnect it, the check engine light comes on and who knows what else.

Ben
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#27
I believe that's the turbo encabulator. It feeds motor trunnions to the lunar wayneshaft. Here's a link.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag


2013 Honda CB1100
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#28
Chandler, that is one of the all time best videos. I have read he did it all off the cuff for a camera check.
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#29
Genius! Thanks Chandler.

I knew it was all in the reciprocation dingle arm.
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#30
(07-01-2017, 10:48 PM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: Chandler, that is one of the all time best videos. I have read he did it all off the cuff for a camera check.


Yeah, I've read that. It's incredible. I'm not very mechanically inclined. After about two minutes of mechanical talk, this is what it all sounds like.


2013 Honda CB1100
(07-01-2017, 10:56 PM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: Genius! Thanks Chandler.

I knew it was all in the reciprocation dingle arm.


Yes. That's crucial. It's also important to remember the sperving bearings and the panametric fam.


2013 Honda CB1100
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