interesting conversation about draining oil

[4 Paws_imp]

I just change the oil. Have crossed the 100,000 mile mark on bikes with no engine failures.
I service frequently. And don't burn my fingers.
Do lube the chain when it's warm though.

[mininsx_imp]

I do it both ways for the sake of convenience; the oil filter is there to trap contaminates, so I don't worry about it.

[Bokobob_imp]

Once a year or so, I add a couple of ounces of Seafoam to the crankcase and ride about 50 miles before changing the oil. Comes out mighty dirty. Only saying.

[ClassicVW_imp]

I think this has been mentioned before, but again, what's the difference between the amount of oil required during a normal oil change with filter, and a first-time fill up on a new engine? Well over a quart I assume?

Only around four ounces.

[immgunn_imp]

You're a wise man.

Once a year or so, I add a couple of ounces of Seafoam to the crankcase and ride about 50 miles before changing the oil. Comes out mighty dirty. Only saying.

You're a wise man.

[rboe]

The sump on my Griso has internal ribs leaving pockets to trap particulates (I know this because I had to replace it once). Hot or cold, can't drain stuff that has settled in those low spots. Not sure if our CB has similar ribs; I would not be surprised.

If you change oil often I think this is a moot point. hrug:

[kmoney_imp]

The sump on my Griso has internal ribs leaving pockets to trap particulates (I know this because I had to replace it once). Hot or cold, can't drain stuff that has settled in those low spots. Not sure if our CB has similar ribs; I would not be surprised.

If you change oil often I think this is a moot point. hrug:

I think this is probably the answer. The only modern engines I've ever seen with large deposits in the oil were either massively neglected, had design flaws (toyota 3.0, VW 1.8), or had other mechanical failures. The detergent packages are so good in modern oils that I don't think this is really a big problem.

[rboe]

I finally changed the oil on the Griso (it's been pretty darn cool and even rainy since it came back from the shop after having it's tappets upgraded from flat to rollers) and I decided to do a cool drain as I didn't want to cycle any crap from the disintegrating flat tappet coatings around the motor any more than needed. I also dropped the sump to inspect it for said crud laying around in the bottom (no ribs, just the depression for the pickup for the oil - my bad - although it did have some corners ).

Well I found this white stuff that looked all the world to be a fine grained contaminant so I stressed out a bit and posted pics of it over on grisoghetto.com. Chief mechanic said it looked like mayo to him.

So, if the oil is not warm enough to suspend nicely any moisture you may see what I saw - and perhaps freak a bit. Here is what it looked liked in the drain pan and sump.

[Toddman_imp]

Interesting thread...

I've always changed mine warm but I don't think it matters.

I miss my old KZ with the kickstarter. You could flush more oil out with just a couple of kicks while it is draining.

I don't fret over oil and changes like I used to. If you change it after a hard hot weekend of riding and at the beginning of the season, you'll be good. Trackdays will thrash oil and it's important to change after a trackday.
Rboe,

I think you are seeing moisture (Mayo). IF you don't ride your bike long enough to boil off the water, you'll get that white stuff. Those 15 minute rides will do that.

[rboe]

They are usually 30+ rides. However; it appears the Griso is a bit over cooled with the oil cooler, cooler wetter climes have proven a wee bit problematic. Phoenix, this winter, has been cooler and more humid. Didn't see that coming!

Some folks have resorted to blocking off some of the air flow to the oil cooler to help and I'm looking at that. Would like to add an oil thermometer to monitor it though. Getting too hot is just as bad.

I'm going to try and remember to do a warm oil change next and see if this goes away.