Installed Battery Tender quick disconnect /w usb - does your CB make this noise?

[LordWasr_imp]

Not sure if this is normal? I installed a battery tender quick disconnect /w usb charger . I connected it directly to the battery . Tested the USB with my iPhone cable and it charges up but noticed a ticking noise when I turn the bike on before hitting the ignition button. I dont remember ever hearing it prior to installing but then again, I may be freakin myself out lol.

My bad if i'm just over thinking things .

Also, will the USB drain my battery if I dont have the iPhone cable plugged in? or should I disconnect the USB portion when I'm not using it?

https://youtu.be/VFiufSZEe-Y <-- short 3 second video. I put the key in and turn it to the On positon where all the lights show up and you can here the tick. It's not anywhere near the seat/battery area more towards the front/engine area?

this is how I connected the battery tender cables. So the "o ring" parts art on the bottom then the actual battery "+ , - " metal parts sit on top and then the screws . I accidently made a small spark too lol.. I hope that doesnt mess anything up. I checked the turn signals and stuff and everything seemed okay.



Sorry if this is in the wrong section & thanks in advance - again lol.

[Cormanus]

Mmmm ... not sure what the ticking is. I'll go downstairs and check mine later.

I also shortened the title of your thread so people responding to you won't get an error. There's a limit of 83 characters (I think) and, if you get too near it, the automatic insertion of the "Re:" will cause an error.

[LordWasr_imp]

Hi Cormanus,

Got it, I'll remember to limit the subject lol my bad & also thanks , looking to hear from ya. No rush , it's 11PM here so I'm going to bed right now and will check the thread before I ride off to work tomorrow AM. This is the first bike that I'm actually trying to learn on how to do things myself -_- so please excuse the noob questions haha.

Thanks!

Mmmm ... not sure what the ticking is. I'll go downstairs and check mine later.

I also shortened the title of your thread so people responding to you won't get an error. There's a limit of 83 characters (I think) and, if you get too near it, the automatic insertion of the "Re:" will cause an error.

[max]

Hi mate, three things;

1 when working on electrics on the bike always disconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal first, ( that is safe because the negative is already connected to the frame so it does not matter if you touch the frame with the tool,) not the red positive, and connect the negative last after the job is finished, that way you never produce expensive sparks.
if the negative terminal is safely disconnected you can touch any connection on the bike and nothing can happen, if you were to disconnect the positive with the negative connected you run a high risk of touching a part of the frame and causing a short circuit.

2 nothing must be connected between the battery poles and the surfaces of the starter cables, no washers or anything, very high currents flow between the battery terminals and the cables.
any additional connections must be made directly under the bolt heads of the terminals which only provide mechanical force to clamp the contact surfaces together ( and the stainless screws are poor electrical conductors for high currents ).
I have seen steel washers installed in between terminals that glowed orange very quickly, it is called spot-welding.

3 if you disconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key on is the click still there? ( i did watch the video)

It took me a while to understand why it is necessary to disconnect negative instead of positive but i got it in the end.
Like the work you do on the bike and have the enjoyment out of it, looks very tidy with the fuse in line; max

[Cormanus]

LordWasr, I can hear two sounds when I turn the key. the first is what I've always assumed is the fuel pump which is the longer, louder more consistent sound. However, I also heard the ticking sound on your video which is shorter in duration. I have no idea what it is.

[Razor]

Curious little sound?

Instead of getting into meters and measuring current draw and voltage drops; I’d suggest a simpler approach.

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery tender device (leave the positive on).
Turn on, do you still have the sound?
If No; it’s the battery tender device or negative connection*
If Yes; disconnect the positive lead of the battery tender device, and check again.

As max mentioned; make sure the bike cables are the first to contact the battery posts, then the tender leads (ie, tender lead goes through the battery bolt first, then the bike cable).

[Cormanus]

Curious little sound?

Instead of getting into meters and measuring current draw and voltage drops; I’d suggest a simpler approach.

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery tender device (leave the positive on).
Turn on, do you still have the sound?
If No; it’s the battery tender device or negative connection*
If Yes; disconnect the positive lead of the battery tender device, and check again.

As max mentioned; make sure the bike cables are the first to contact the battery posts, then the tender leads (ie, tender lead goes through the battery bolt first, then the bike cable).

This is ambiguous to me. Do you mean that the bike cables should be next to the top of the battery or that the tender lead should be next to the top of the battery?

[Blockhead_imp]

Mine is setup with bike cables touching the top of the battery and the tender cables on top of the bike cables...no issues

[the Ferret]

I have mine like Blockheads too. Bike cables in direct contact with battery, battery tender cables on top of that, no washers of any kind, everything making direct contact with each other.

[Razor]

I have mine like Blockheads too. Bike cables in direct contact with battery, battery tender cables on top of that, no washers of any kind, everything making direct contact with each other.

This is the correct way to connect the bike cables and tender leads.
Thanks for the clarification, Blockhead & Mickey.