Any interest in cams?

[Randy B]

I wonder if the exhaust cam is identical to the intake cam except for the engineered tweak for the resonance, with an eye to just using an intake cam on the exhaust side? They look identical in the exploded parts diagrams. Interested in your findings.

Ben

Different part numbers.

CAMSHAFT, IN.
14110-MGC-000

CAMSHAFT, EX.
14210-MGC-000

[ryanschillinger_imp]

I was actually thinking about the cams earlier when an older kz pulled up and was sounding pretty nasty at the red light. It sounded pretty mean as he got onto the freeway.

[Rocky_imp]

I have no interest in doing this myself, but am always interested in the adventures of others.
I bought the CB knowing what it is and am very happy with it as it is.

[PowerDubs_imp]

Cams arrived to me, and I sent them to the cam shop. I need to call them to see what's next.

[AndyHe_imp]

I would like to have cams that would fix the deliberate miss matched timing.
Don't need any more power though.
Kevin

I'm very much interested in this too. I find mine a bit rough around the 3400 - 3800 RPM range and blame it on the deliberate mismatch.

What I'd like ideally is to buy new cams from a reputable cam shop that makes them just like stock except to fix the mismatch firing. Then would need someone like Don Guhl to reflash the ECU to correct the timing and it would be in theory smoother than it is now. Either that or I just need to let it go.

[rmack_imp]

Powerdubs i would be very keen if when you get some specs ie duration lift etc post them
cheers rod

[Ulvetanna_imp]

Best bang for the buck, intake/exhaust mods and reflash. Hard to say just what the engine could stand in terms of lift and duration, and additional heat produced by the extra energy. But this thread is one to watch. I'd like to see what's what with the cams. Not hard to swap them out, that's for sure.

I would like to have cams that would fix the deliberate miss matched timing.
Don't need any more power though.
Kevin

I'm very much interested in this too. I find mine a bit rough around the 3400 - 3800 RPM range and blame it on the deliberate mismatch.

What I'd like ideally is to buy new cams from a reputable cam shop that makes them just like stock except to fix the mismatch firing. Then would need someone like Don Guhl to reflash the ECU to correct the timing and it would be in theory smoother than it is now. Either that or I just need to let it go.

I'm very much interested in this too. I find mine a bit rough around the 3400 - 3800 RPM range and blame it on the deliberate mismatch.

What I'd like ideally is to buy new cams from a reputable cam shop that makes them just like stock except to fix the mismatch firing. Then would need someone like Don Guhl to reflash the ECU to correct the timing and it would be in theory smoother than it is now. Either that or I just need to let it go. I also would not mind having that little burble dialed out. I wonder about the cams for the 2017...what changes? I think there must be some kind of change because torque numbers are claimed to be at a different part of the RPM range.

[EarsOnWheels_imp]

Curious to learn about this as you progress.

[PowerDubs_imp]

Best bang for the buck, intake/exhaust mods and reflash. Hard to say just what the engine could stand in terms of lift and duration, and additional heat produced by the extra energy. But this thread is one to watch. I'd like to see what's what with the cams. Not hard to swap them out, that's for sure.

I would like to have cams that would fix the deliberate miss matched timing.
Don't need any more power though.
Kevin

I'm very much interested in this too. I find mine a bit rough around the 3400 - 3800 RPM range and blame it on the deliberate mismatch.

What I'd like ideally is to buy new cams from a reputable cam shop that makes them just like stock except to fix the mismatch firing. Then would need someone like Don Guhl to reflash the ECU to correct the timing and it would be in theory smoother than it is now. Either that or I just need to let it go.

I'm very much interested in this too. I find mine a bit rough around the 3400 - 3800 RPM range and blame it on the deliberate mismatch.

What I'd like ideally is to buy new cams from a reputable cam shop that makes them just like stock except to fix the mismatch firing. Then would need someone like Don Guhl to reflash the ECU to correct the timing and it would be in theory smoother than it is now. Either that or I just need to let it go. I also would not mind having that little burble dialed out. I wonder about the cams for the 2017...what changes? I think there must be some kind of change because torque numbers are claimed to be at a different part of the RPM range.

I respectfully, but highly disagree. I've been doing this my whole life, have done hundreds of dynos and am anal enough to dyno piece by piece and compare. Hell, my current play car alone has had 4 different sized cam sets in it, each dynoed by themselves- I dynoed it at 2 different dynos in 3 days just 2 weeks ago just to compare results. That isn't counting different headers, cats, catbacks, ported cyl head, bigger throttlebody...

Cams on this bike should make intake/exhaust/flash look like a joke and a waste of money.

Don't misunderstand- and engine is an air pump and complete package, any bottleneck is a bottle neck, but I have yet to see where cams aren't king.

For now I own a Staintune muffler, Arrow headers, Dynojet Power Commander, Dynojet Autotune. A set of cams should do nicely- and if not extreme shouldn't loose much down low. You would be amazed how much is choked off on modern stuff for emissions and sound.

[CIP57_imp]

I did a lot of research with Megacams http://www.megacyclecams.com/ out of CA in 2014. Just grinding or changing out cams without lower end work was going to be minimal gains. Maybe if we where lucky 5 hp without a bore and other extensive work with minimal on top. Your not working with a GS1100 motor here where you can put a 1250 kit and gain 30hp.

You can gain that 5 hp just going to a full exhaust.