Adapting to 17" CBR wheels?

[nsrrider_imp]

This bike is around 550lbs. Taking off a 10lbs centerstand won't help much. I said I'd take mine off but after using it and remembering how helpful those things are. Especially cleaning and adjusting the chain. I saw a review on youtube of a guy scraping saying it was the centerstand. It's not. It's the front peg. I ride mine in the twisties a lot. It's the peg.

Not sure what you're looking for but if you wanted an 80s bike that won't have carb issues and good brakes you found it.

Only stuff I've done is brake lines (huge improvement) a full exhaust, a tune by Guhl (other huge improvement), desnorkeled and K&N , and some shocks and it made it a freighttrain. I love it.it's no cbr1000rr but that's not what you buy a CB for. It's a fun bike.

Don't mind me asking which brake lines did you use?

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed

Don't mind me asking which brake lines did you use?

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
"Not sure what you're looking for but if you wanted an 80s bike that won't have carb issues and good brakes you found it."

that's pretty much what I'm looking for, plus the simplicity and uncluttered nature of the CB appeals to me. It will probably not get a lot of miles and will be available to friends to use when visiting. But like I mentioned, it would be more than the 10 LB centerstand I would be removing with a diet....full exhaust (15 LBS?), lithium battery (8 LBS?) rear passenger pegs and a few other incidentals.....should gain me more than 30 LBS, just like adding about 6 HP.

Can you tell me more about the Guhl tune? Benefit, cost etc thx

Don't mind me asking which brake lines did you use?

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
"Not sure what you're looking for but if you wanted an 80s bike that won't have carb issues and good brakes you found it."

that's pretty much what I'm looking for, plus the simplicity and uncluttered nature of the CB appeals to me. It will probably not get a lot of miles and will be available to friends to use when visiting. But like I mentioned, it would be more than the 10 LB centerstand I would be removing with a diet....full exhaust (15 LBS?), lithium battery (8 LBS?) rear passenger pegs and a few other incidentals.....should gain me more than 30 LBS, just like adding about 6 HP.

Can you tell me more about the Guhl tune? Benefit, cost etc thx I started that way, but also lost 30lbs myself, thought it would be easier

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed

Don't mind me asking which brake lines did you use?

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
"Not sure what you're looking for but if you wanted an 80s bike that won't have carb issues and good brakes you found it."

that's pretty much what I'm looking for, plus the simplicity and uncluttered nature of the CB appeals to me. It will probably not get a lot of miles and will be available to friends to use when visiting. But like I mentioned, it would be more than the 10 LB centerstand I would be removing with a diet....full exhaust (15 LBS?), lithium battery (8 LBS?) rear passenger pegs and a few other incidentals.....should gain me more than 30 LBS, just like adding about 6 HP.

Can you tell me more about the Guhl tune? Benefit, cost etc thx I started that way, but also lost 30lbs myself, thought it would be easier

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
Ha! I'd look like a Dachau survivor....

[PowerDubs_imp]

The space issue with the 160 tyre had to do with the centre stand not the swing arm. You may have to lose the stand.

helpful, thx
My bike is on a (slow) truck coming from Austin...it's in AZ now. My build project included losing the center stand anyway. Seems like one of the complaints of the CB1100 is that it's rather "portly." Being the weight-nazi that I am, I plan on a diet for the bike. Looks like it won't be hard to lose 25 LBS. BTW, I'm not trying to turn this bike into a sport bike (I have one)....just trying to optimize its potential without destroying its character or looks.

I have tried to make my bike the most pure 1980's look I can- combined with the best performance.

I always like watching build threads- so make posts so we can see what happens with your bike!!

I've had several cars that I have gone *nuts* on weight loss. But this bike isn't something you are going to loose anything remotely close enough to make any difference in performance on- especially given the cost.


I removed the dumb side trim under the seat- no need for them, look silly, not true to the style and age of the bike. Slight weight saving.

Different battery could save you a couple pounds, not much. Lipo don't like cold weather though.

You can buy an aftermarket aluminum but works same as stock swingarm from Samurider.com that drops weight. Awesome piece- but not cheap.

Easiest weight loss is in a full exhaust system- and will gain performance.

This bike will never be anywhere near 'lightweight', nowhere near great 'handling', nowhere near 'powerful'...compared to the best in each bikes of those categories.

That doesn't mean you can't improve on each- and doesn't mean it isn't a great bike.

The combination of look, comfort, combined with modern fuel injection, gearing, better frame design, brakes... to me is *perfect*.

The bike just needed a little help from what Honda built. But as a UJM- we each can make it our own 'universal' way.

Personally I absolutely would not screw around with different wheels, upside down forks, etc for that goal, but that's just me. More chance of screwing things up, money, time and work spent- for no real benefit.

I prefer to focus on what the bike is- improve those attributes without compromise.

I upgraded to, and highly recommend- the 2017 forks as they are much better than what the earlier bikes have. Others have followed after me and also give the upgrade a thumbs up.

I installed Ikon rear shocks (Ikon is Koni backwards- they sold off the motorcycle division in 2001 so the name was changed in a simple way- but they are Koni shocks). You can call or email them to get different spring weights if you want, various different spring caps, spring colors, adjustability options, etc.

There are several other brands of shocks you can buy- these just looked most period correct to me, and backed by a company with a storied history of making shocks for race cars since WWII.

https://www.koni.com/en-US/About-KONI/KO...g-history/

of which, the motorcycle shock division was sold to-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/about-us/


Best part- completely rebuild-able piece by piece-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/replacement-parts/

Reviews-

https://motorbikewriter.com/ikon-suspens...de-review/



On my bike- I have a 4-4 exhaust sitting here waiting to be installed, and some secret parts currently being made overseas to bring the power up yet again.


Old pics & old dyno compared to a stock 2017.













And here for the sound is an old video of the 4-1 on the dyno, muffled by the ventilation hooked to the muffler, fans in the room, and small indoor concrete room itself- but still sounds good. Better soon on the 4-4-


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-JUu8JBjGc

[PowerDubs_imp]

Another-

[nsrrider_imp]

The space issue with the 160 tyre had to do with the centre stand not the swing arm. You may have to lose the stand.

helpful, thx
My bike is on a (slow) truck coming from Austin...it's in AZ now. My build project included losing the center stand anyway. Seems like one of the complaints of the CB1100 is that it's rather "portly." Being the weight-nazi that I am, I plan on a diet for the bike. Looks like it won't be hard to lose 25 LBS. BTW, I'm not trying to turn this bike into a sport bike (I have one)....just trying to optimize its potential without destroying its character or looks.

I have tried to make my bike the most pure 1980's look I can- combined with the best performance.

I always like watching build threads- so make posts so we can see what happens with your bike!!

I've had several cars that I have gone *nuts* on weight loss. But this bike isn't something you are going to loose anything remotely close enough to make any difference in performance on- especially given the cost.


I removed the dumb side trim under the seat- no need for them, look silly, not true to the style and age of the bike. Slight weight saving.

Different battery could save you a couple pounds, not much. Lipo don't like cold weather though.

You can buy an aftermarket aluminum but works same as stock swingarm from Samurider.com that drops weight. Awesome piece- but not cheap.

Easiest weight loss is in a full exhaust system- and will gain performance.

This bike will never be anywhere near 'lightweight', nowhere near great 'handling', nowhere near 'powerful'...compared to the best in each bikes of those categories.

That doesn't mean you can't improve on each- and doesn't mean it isn't a great bike.

The combination of look, comfort, combined with modern fuel injection, gearing, better frame design, brakes... to me is *perfect*.

The bike just needed a little help from what Honda built. But as a UJM- we each can make it our own 'universal' way.

Personally I absolutely would not screw around with different wheels, upside down forks, etc for that goal, but that's just me. More chance of screwing things up, money, time and work spent- for no real benefit.

I prefer to focus on what the bike is- improve those attributes without compromise.

I upgraded to, and highly recommend- the 2017 forks as they are much better than what the earlier bikes have. Others have followed after me and also give the upgrade a thumbs up.

I installed Ikon rear shocks (Ikon is Koni backwards- they sold off the motorcycle division in 2001 so the name was changed in a simple way- but they are Koni shocks). You can call or email them to get different spring weights if you want, various different spring caps, spring colors, adjustability options, etc.

There are several other brands of shocks you can buy- these just looked most period correct to me, and backed by a company with a storied history of making shocks for race cars since WWII.

https://www.koni.com/en-US/About-KONI/KO...g-history/

of which, the motorcycle shock division was sold to-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/about-us/


Best part- completely rebuild-able piece by piece-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/replacement-parts/

Reviews-

https://motorbikewriter.com/ikon-suspens...de-review/



On my bike- I have a 4-4 exhaust sitting here waiting to be installed, and some secret parts currently being made overseas to bring the power up yet again.


Old pics & old dyno compared to a stock 2017.













And here for the sound is an old video of the 4-1 on the dyno, muffled by the ventilation hooked to the muffler, fans in the room, and small indoor concrete room itself- but still sounds good. Better soon on the 4-4-


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-JUu8JBjGc

I have tried to make my bike the most pure 1980's look I can- combined with the best performance.

I always like watching build threads- so make posts so we can see what happens with your bike!!

I've had several cars that I have gone *nuts* on weight loss. But this bike isn't something you are going to loose anything remotely close enough to make any difference in performance on- especially given the cost.


I removed the dumb side trim under the seat- no need for them, look silly, not true to the style and age of the bike. Slight weight saving.

Different battery could save you a couple pounds, not much. Lipo don't like cold weather though.

You can buy an aftermarket aluminum but works same as stock swingarm from Samurider.com that drops weight. Awesome piece- but not cheap.

Easiest weight loss is in a full exhaust system- and will gain performance.

This bike will never be anywhere near 'lightweight', nowhere near great 'handling', nowhere near 'powerful'...compared to the best in each bikes of those categories.

That doesn't mean you can't improve on each- and doesn't mean it isn't a great bike.

The combination of look, comfort, combined with modern fuel injection, gearing, better frame design, brakes... to me is *perfect*.

The bike just needed a little help from what Honda built. But as a UJM- we each can make it our own 'universal' way.

Personally I absolutely would not screw around with different wheels, upside down forks, etc for that goal, but that's just me. More chance of screwing things up, money, time and work spent- for no real benefit.

I prefer to focus on what the bike is- improve those attributes without compromise.

I upgraded to, and highly recommend- the 2017 forks as they are much better than what the earlier bikes have. Others have followed after me and also give the upgrade a thumbs up.

I installed Ikon rear shocks (Ikon is Koni backwards- they sold off the motorcycle division in 2001 so the name was changed in a simple way- but they are Koni shocks). You can call or email them to get different spring weights if you want, various different spring caps, spring colors, adjustability options, etc.

There are several other brands of shocks you can buy- these just looked most period correct to me, and backed by a company with a storied history of making shocks for race cars since WWII.

https://www.koni.com/en-US/About-KONI/KO...g-history/

of which, the motorcycle shock division was sold to-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/about-us/


Best part- completely rebuild-able piece by piece-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/replacement-parts/

Reviews-

https://motorbikewriter.com/ikon-suspens...de-review/



On my bike- I have a 4-4 exhaust sitting here waiting to be installed, and some secret parts currently being made overseas to bring the power up yet again.


Old pics & old dyno compared to a stock 2017.













And here for the sound is an old video of the 4-1 on the dyno, muffled by the ventilation hooked to the muffler, fans in the room, and small indoor concrete room itself- but still sounds good. Better soon on the 4-4-


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-JUu8JBjGc
good looking bike....and great HP/TQ gains too....
25 LBS weight reduction is undoubtedly attainable...at (around) 5 LBS per HP, that's the equivalent of gaining 5 HP without getting into the motor. It all comes down to power to weight ratio.....and what you want your motorcycle to be.

[the Ferret]

Dont forget to add on the weight of the rider. Bike isnt going anywhere without him.

So a bike with a 165 pound rider gains 7 hp advantage over a bike with a 200 pound rider... right?

[nsrrider_imp]

Dont forget to add on the weight of the rider. Bike isnt going anywhere without him.

So a bike with a 165 pound rider gains 7 hp advantage over a bike with a 200 pound rider... right?

yes, all things being equal with identical two bikes producing identical dyno numbers, the bike with the 165 LB rider will out accelerate the bike with the heavier rider.

[Tev62]

The space issue with the 160 tyre had to do with the centre stand not the swing arm. You may have to lose the stand.

helpful, thx
My bike is on a (slow) truck coming from Austin...it's in AZ now. My build project included losing the center stand anyway. Seems like one of the complaints of the CB1100 is that it's rather "portly." Being the weight-nazi that I am, I plan on a diet for the bike. Looks like it won't be hard to lose 25 LBS. BTW, I'm not trying to turn this bike into a sport bike (I have one)....just trying to optimize its potential without destroying its character or looks.

I have tried to make my bike the most pure 1980's look I can- combined with the best performance.

I always like watching build threads- so make posts so we can see what happens with your bike!!

I've had several cars that I have gone *nuts* on weight loss. But this bike isn't something you are going to loose anything remotely close enough to make any difference in performance on- especially given the cost.


I removed the dumb side trim under the seat- no need for them, look silly, not true to the style and age of the bike. Slight weight saving.

Different battery could save you a couple pounds, not much. Lipo don't like cold weather though.

You can buy an aftermarket aluminum but works same as stock swingarm from Samurider.com that drops weight. Awesome piece- but not cheap.

Easiest weight loss is in a full exhaust system- and will gain performance.

This bike will never be anywhere near 'lightweight', nowhere near great 'handling', nowhere near 'powerful'...compared to the best in each bikes of those categories.

That doesn't mean you can't improve on each- and doesn't mean it isn't a great bike.

The combination of look, comfort, combined with modern fuel injection, gearing, better frame design, brakes... to me is *perfect*.

The bike just needed a little help from what Honda built. But as a UJM- we each can make it our own 'universal' way.

Personally I absolutely would not screw around with different wheels, upside down forks, etc for that goal, but that's just me. More chance of screwing things up, money, time and work spent- for no real benefit.

I prefer to focus on what the bike is- improve those attributes without compromise.

I upgraded to, and highly recommend- the 2017 forks as they are much better than what the earlier bikes have. Others have followed after me and also give the upgrade a thumbs up.

I installed Ikon rear shocks (Ikon is Koni backwards- they sold off the motorcycle division in 2001 so the name was changed in a simple way- but they are Koni shocks). You can call or email them to get different spring weights if you want, various different spring caps, spring colors, adjustability options, etc.

There are several other brands of shocks you can buy- these just looked most period correct to me, and backed by a company with a storied history of making shocks for race cars since WWII.

https://www.koni.com/en-US/About-KONI/KO...g-history/

of which, the motorcycle shock division was sold to-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/about-us/


Best part- completely rebuild-able piece by piece-

https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/replacement-parts/

Reviews-

https://motorbikewriter.com/ikon-suspens...de-review/



On my bike- I have a 4-4 exhaust sitting here waiting to be installed, and some secret parts currently being made overseas to bring the power up yet again.


Old pics & old dyno compared to a stock 2017.













And here for the sound is an old video of the 4-1 on the dyno, muffled by the ventilation hooked to the muffler, fans in the room, and small indoor concrete room itself- but still sounds good. Better soon on the 4-4-


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-JUu8JBjGc

It isn't.

[Lord Popgun]

Found this on the net:

“
IKON Suspension is an Australian company that has been manufacturing Koni design shock absorbers under an exclusive license agreement with Koni since they stopped making motorcycle shocks in the year 2000. While carrying on the deep Koni heritage and reputation, Ikon also proudly continues R & D, not only improving their legacy products but developing new ones as well. Ikon shocks are ridden and raced all over the world by motorcyclists just like you.”

[tod.branko_imp]

I've actually been in touch with them about rear shocks, they were kind an helpful but due to Covid it takes months to get an order out

'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed

[Rox_imp]

Guhl does no more tuning. EPA put a stop to it. And not just them.

They still tune.. "Track use only."