My anti lock non anti lock brake

[Ack-CB11_imp]

Guth,

Are you saying you can get the bike to stop, from say 35 or 45 mph without using the front brake? Cause I can't. Heck it won't stop it going 10 or 20, although I am going to test it some.

Me too

[terrydlargo_imp]

My rear brake along with the ABS works just like it should, thankfully!

[the Ferret]

mine will stop from 10 but not much more than that..30 plus? not a prayer.

Rode my buddys 08 1200 Sporster today..his rear brake is much much better than mine, but my fronts are much much better than his.

[Lord Popgun]

ferrett,

I tried it once today and agree. 10mph, yeah. 30, not so much.

I'm going to experiment more when I can. I had an '87 1100 Sportster, but I can't remember how good the rear brake was on it.

[Ack-CB11_imp]

I jammed on the back brake only at 30, 50 and 60, doesn't stop me just locks up. I could drag the rear down to 0 if I wanted to flat spot it. It's been like that with all my bikes. You should be able to do the same, I think thats what started this thread. Doesn't seem right if you can't?
Front brakes are good enough for stoppies, like any bike.

[OldF7Guy_imp]

I had an 03 Sportster and if the rear brake is worse on the CB11 that that then you have issues. The brakes on my Sportster were marginal to put it mildly.

[retroman_imp]

I also noticed weak rear braking on my CB and didn't think much of it since I get by with the front brakes and engine braking. However, I found some hopefully useful information at http://www.hawkperformance.com/faq.php on the need for brake pad break-in or bedding for effective brake performance.

"Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to be brought to temperatures, creating a transfer-film layer of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear."

and related procedure (for a car with the assumption that it also applies to a 2 wheeler)..

"After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal."

I will give this a try first and see how it goes.

[Guth_imp]

Guth,

Are you saying you can get the bike to stop, from say 35 or 45 mph without using the front brake? Cause I can't. Heck it won't stop it going 10 or 20, although I am going to test it some.

Yes, that's correct. However, due to the laws of physics, it's going to take much longer than using the front brakes. I typically use a little bit of my rear brake in conjunction with my fronts. Sometimes I'll use just the rear brake to scrub off a little speed here and there. But until this topic came up, I don't think I had ever tried stopping with the rear brake only.

[the Ferret]

Shoot, I wish. I can press mine hard and not slow down for 2 blocks. might work on that some today.

[Guth_imp]

Shoot, I wish. I can press mine hard and not slow down for 2 blocks. might work on that some today.

Yikes. Hope you get it figured out sooner rather than later.