Boosterplug

[17-CB-002]

Intake Air Temperature (IAT).
The purpose of the IAT sensor is for the Engine Control Module (ECM) to correct for air density changes when ambient air temperature changes.
The colder the air the more dense it is, therefore more oxygen content, so the ECM make a correction to add a bit more fuel to the basic fuel injection calculation.
The ECM correction factor for the IAT is negligible, so modifying the IAT output to trick the ECM for more power is not worth it.
Having said that, the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor has more correction value percentage (compared to the IAT) to the basic fuel injection calculation, since the CB1100 does not have a radiator, the ECM uses the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor instead to compensate from a cold to a fully warm up engine.
The EOT sensor uses the same type of Negative Thermal Coefficient (NTC) thermistor as the IAT, meaning when the engine is hot, her resistance drops.
(At 20 degrees celsius it has a resistance of 2.2 kilo ohm and when warmed to 28 degrees the resistance decreases to 2 kilo ohm.)

Basic Fuel Injection Calculation:
For the ECM to calculate the basic fuel output, it requires signals from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Engine RPM (NE) then it add the correction factors such as EOT, IAT ,Ox and so on.

Hope this help
Alain

[Jfro5687_imp]

I tried one of these Boosterplugs on my Triumph T120 because it was a bit snatchy. Did it work? No. Not in my opinion. The only difference I could tell was the exhaust fumes smelt much more 'petrolly'. Like it was running on full choke.

Anyhow, took it off and sold it on eBay for about half what I paid. Another life lesson.......

[Houtman_imp]

On many of the previous posts I see : it should , they claim , it might ,it could.
To me that does not make sense , it works or it does not work if you install parts related to the engine . Last year I looked at the booster plug and quickly decided that it did not make sense to ME.

[michael1954]

Intake Air Temperature (IAT).
The purpose of the IAT sensor is for the Engine Control Module (ECM) to correct for air density changes when ambient air temperature changes.
The colder the air the more dense it is, therefore more oxygen content, so the ECM make a correction to add a bit more fuel to the basic fuel injection calculation.
The ECM correction factor for the IAT is negligible, so modifying the IAT output to trick the ECM for more power is not worth it.
Having said that, the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor has more correction value percentage (compared to the IAT) to the basic fuel injection calculation, since the CB1100 does not have a radiator, the ECM uses the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor instead to compensate from a cold to a fully warm up engine.
The EOT sensor uses the same type of Negative Thermal Coefficient (NTC) thermistor as the IAT, meaning when the engine is hot, her resistance drops.
(At 20 degrees celsius it has a resistance of 2.2 kilo ohm and when warmed to 28 degrees the resistance decreases to 2 kilo ohm.)

Basic Fuel Injection Calculation:
For the ECM to calculate the basic fuel output, it requires signals from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Engine RPM (NE) then it add the correction factors such as EOT, IAT ,Ox and so on.

Hope this help
Alain

Hi, thanks, every bit of info helps. I am not putting the Booster Plug on either of my Hondas, I do not think they need any help. I am pretty sure factory settings must be on the lean side some. I am hoping it helps with fuel usage on my Z900RS. If it does not work or does nothing, I will remove it. What is there on the market I can do for my Kawasaki that has Akrapovic Headers, Akrapovic Exhaust and a K&N Air Filter, all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake. Are the components in these new, computer driven bikes able to compensate for the increase in air? I hope so. I have put about 300 miles on the Kawasaki already and the only negative outcome I see is my mpg went down a little and an occasional pop on downshifting. I am old school and still engine brake some. Not so much it hurts the engine, but enough to be in the right gear as I slow down.

[17-CB-002]

Intake Air Temperature (IAT).
The purpose of the IAT sensor is for the Engine Control Module (ECM) to correct for air density changes when ambient air temperature changes.
The colder the air the more dense it is, therefore more oxygen content, so the ECM make a correction to add a bit more fuel to the basic fuel injection calculation.
The ECM correction factor for the IAT is negligible, so modifying the IAT output to trick the ECM for more power is not worth it.
Having said that, the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor has more correction value percentage (compared to the IAT) to the basic fuel injection calculation, since the CB1100 does not have a radiator, the ECM uses the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor instead to compensate from a cold to a fully warm up engine.
The EOT sensor uses the same type of Negative Thermal Coefficient (NTC) thermistor as the IAT, meaning when the engine is hot, her resistance drops.
(At 20 degrees celsius it has a resistance of 2.2 kilo ohm and when warmed to 28 degrees the resistance decreases to 2 kilo ohm.)

Basic Fuel Injection Calculation:
For the ECM to calculate the basic fuel output, it requires signals from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Engine RPM (NE) then it add the correction factors such as EOT, IAT ,Ox and so on.

Hope this help
Alain

Hi, thanks, every bit of info helps. I am not putting the Booster Plug on either of my Hondas, I do not think they need any help. I am pretty sure factory settings must be on the lean side some. I am hoping it helps with fuel usage on my Z900RS. If it does not work or does nothing, I will remove it. What is there on the market I can do for my Kawasaki that has Akrapovic Headers, Akrapovic Exhaust and a K&N Air Filter, all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake. Are the components in these new, computer driven bikes able to compensate for the increase in air? I hope so. I have put about 300 miles on the Kawasaki already and the only negative outcome I see is my mpg went down a little and an occasional pop on downshifting. I am old school and still engine brake some. Not so much it hurts the engine, but enough to be in the right gear as I slow down.

Hi, thanks, every bit of info helps. I am not putting the Booster Plug on either of my Hondas, I do not think they need any help. I am pretty sure factory settings must be on the lean side some. I am hoping it helps with fuel usage on my Z900RS. If it does not work or does nothing, I will remove it. What is there on the market I can do for my Kawasaki that has Akrapovic Headers, Akrapovic Exhaust and a K&N Air Filter, all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake. Are the components in these new, computer driven bikes able to compensate for the increase in air? I hope so. I have put about 300 miles on the Kawasaki already and the only negative outcome I see is my mpg went down a little and an occasional pop on downshifting. I am old school and still engine brake some. Not so much it hurts the engine, but enough to be in the right gear as I slow down.
Hi Michael, Sorry I cannot help you in regards to modification for more power - It's beyond my pay grade.
In regards to your comments on "Factory setting on the lean side" - this is not true at all, it is a perception by many people. The factory engineers & their suppliers (BOSCH or DENSO or DELPHI etc) must program the ECM to meet emission, fuel consumption and power, in other word they must get the perfect combustion (14.7:1 ratio) on every stroke and this is confirmed via the Oxygen sensor (Air Fuel Ratio sensor on later models).
Example of where the engineers can get saving on fuel consumption is to create less friction from internal moving parts (less piston rings tension, drill holes between cylinders to reduce pumping loss, use teflon coating etc), cut fuel injection during engine deceleration, using the knock sensor to advance ignition timing to the maximum, use Variable valve timing technology, low resistance tires, low drag coefficient design of the body, low friction oil* etc.
(*Low Friction Oil - that's why the automobile engine oil cannot be used on motorcycle because it will create slippage of the clutch).

"all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake" - Mike, You have to remember that 100% of incoming air is measured by the MAP sensor and the ECM while confirming the engine RPM will calculate the correct/proper amount of fuel required - no less/no more.
However, let's say if there is some corossion build up in the EOT sensor circuitry; the ECM will assume that the engine is cooler (when it is really hot) then ECM will compensate by adding more fuel than required causing a richer mixture (example 11:1 ratio instead of 14.7:1) therefore more power output - note: after a while the ECM will learn and trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).

Alain

[max]

Alain i wonder if you can help me out on this one;
"that 100% of incoming air is measured by the MAP sensor"etc.

I have always thought that the volume of air was measured by a Mass Air Flow sensor using two very small resistors placed strategically in the airflow before the air filter measuring the volt drop ( temperature difference ) between them and translating that into an output signal to the e.c.m.

Do you mean that the same air volume can be measured by the Manifold Air Pressure sensor measuring vacuum on the intake manifold?
I'm a bit unclear on that one and never worked out the role of the map sensor.

[michael1954]

Intake Air Temperature (IAT).
The purpose of the IAT sensor is for the Engine Control Module (ECM) to correct for air density changes when ambient air temperature changes.
The colder the air the more dense it is, therefore more oxygen content, so the ECM make a correction to add a bit more fuel to the basic fuel injection calculation.
The ECM correction factor for the IAT is negligible, so modifying the IAT output to trick the ECM for more power is not worth it.
Having said that, the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor has more correction value percentage (compared to the IAT) to the basic fuel injection calculation, since the CB1100 does not have a radiator, the ECM uses the Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) sensor instead to compensate from a cold to a fully warm up engine.
The EOT sensor uses the same type of Negative Thermal Coefficient (NTC) thermistor as the IAT, meaning when the engine is hot, her resistance drops.
(At 20 degrees celsius it has a resistance of 2.2 kilo ohm and when warmed to 28 degrees the resistance decreases to 2 kilo ohm.)

Basic Fuel Injection Calculation:
For the ECM to calculate the basic fuel output, it requires signals from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Engine RPM (NE) then it add the correction factors such as EOT, IAT ,Ox and so on.

Hope this help
Alain

Hi, thanks, every bit of info helps. I am not putting the Booster Plug on either of my Hondas, I do not think they need any help. I am pretty sure factory settings must be on the lean side some. I am hoping it helps with fuel usage on my Z900RS. If it does not work or does nothing, I will remove it. What is there on the market I can do for my Kawasaki that has Akrapovic Headers, Akrapovic Exhaust and a K&N Air Filter, all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake. Are the components in these new, computer driven bikes able to compensate for the increase in air? I hope so. I have put about 300 miles on the Kawasaki already and the only negative outcome I see is my mpg went down a little and an occasional pop on downshifting. I am old school and still engine brake some. Not so much it hurts the engine, but enough to be in the right gear as I slow down.

Hi, thanks, every bit of info helps. I am not putting the Booster Plug on either of my Hondas, I do not think they need any help. I am pretty sure factory settings must be on the lean side some. I am hoping it helps with fuel usage on my Z900RS. If it does not work or does nothing, I will remove it. What is there on the market I can do for my Kawasaki that has Akrapovic Headers, Akrapovic Exhaust and a K&N Air Filter, all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake. Are the components in these new, computer driven bikes able to compensate for the increase in air? I hope so. I have put about 300 miles on the Kawasaki already and the only negative outcome I see is my mpg went down a little and an occasional pop on downshifting. I am old school and still engine brake some. Not so much it hurts the engine, but enough to be in the right gear as I slow down.
Hi Michael, Sorry I cannot help you in regards to modification for more power - It's beyond my pay grade.
In regards to your comments on "Factory setting on the lean side" - this is not true at all, it is a perception by many people. The factory engineers & their suppliers (BOSCH or DENSO or DELPHI etc) must program the ECM to meet emission, fuel consumption and power, in other word they must get the perfect combustion (14.7:1 ratio) on every stroke and this is confirmed via the Oxygen sensor (Air Fuel Ratio sensor on later models).
Example of where the engineers can get saving on fuel consumption is to create less friction from internal moving parts (less piston rings tension, drill holes between cylinders to reduce pumping loss, use teflon coating etc), cut fuel injection during engine deceleration, using the knock sensor to advance ignition timing to the maximum, use Variable valve timing technology, low resistance tires, low drag coefficient design of the body, low friction oil* etc.
(*Low Friction Oil - that's why the automobile engine oil cannot be used on motorcycle because it will create slippage of the clutch).

"all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake" - Mike, You have to remember that 100% of incoming air is measured by the MAP sensor and the ECM while confirming the engine RPM will calculate the correct/proper amount of fuel required - no less/no more.
However, let's say if there is some corossion build up in the EOT sensor circuitry; the ECM will assume that the engine is cooler (when it is really hot) then ECM will compensate by adding more fuel than required causing a richer mixture (example 11:1 ratio instead of 14.7:1) therefore more power output - note: after a while the ECM will learn and trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).

Alain

Hi, thanks, every bit of info helps. I am not putting the Booster Plug on either of my Hondas, I do not think they need any help. I am pretty sure factory settings must be on the lean side some. I am hoping it helps with fuel usage on my Z900RS. If it does not work or does nothing, I will remove it. What is there on the market I can do for my Kawasaki that has Akrapovic Headers, Akrapovic Exhaust and a K&N Air Filter, all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake. Are the components in these new, computer driven bikes able to compensate for the increase in air? I hope so. I have put about 300 miles on the Kawasaki already and the only negative outcome I see is my mpg went down a little and an occasional pop on downshifting. I am old school and still engine brake some. Not so much it hurts the engine, but enough to be in the right gear as I slow down.
Hi Michael, Sorry I cannot help you in regards to modification for more power - It's beyond my pay grade.
In regards to your comments on "Factory setting on the lean side" - this is not true at all, it is a perception by many people. The factory engineers & their suppliers (BOSCH or DENSO or DELPHI etc) must program the ECM to meet emission, fuel consumption and power, in other word they must get the perfect combustion (14.7:1 ratio) on every stroke and this is confirmed via the Oxygen sensor (Air Fuel Ratio sensor on later models).
Example of where the engineers can get saving on fuel consumption is to create less friction from internal moving parts (less piston rings tension, drill holes between cylinders to reduce pumping loss, use teflon coating etc), cut fuel injection during engine deceleration, using the knock sensor to advance ignition timing to the maximum, use Variable valve timing technology, low resistance tires, low drag coefficient design of the body, low friction oil* etc.
(*Low Friction Oil - that's why the automobile engine oil cannot be used on motorcycle because it will create slippage of the clutch).

"all of which make it breath more, but do not add more fuel to match the increase air intake" - Mike, You have to remember that 100% of incoming air is measured by the MAP sensor and the ECM while confirming the engine RPM will calculate the correct/proper amount of fuel required - no less/no more.
However, let's say if there is some corossion build up in the EOT sensor circuitry; the ECM will assume that the engine is cooler (when it is really hot) then ECM will compensate by adding more fuel than required causing a richer mixture (example 11:1 ratio instead of 14.7:1) therefore more power output - note: after a while the ECM will learn and trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).

Alain Thanks again, but I do not think the Booster Plug is sold under the guise of getting more HP, but to smooth out the general rideability of the bike. The New Z900RS tends to be a little jumpy off throttle, I guess is the best way to put it. It may be only a 948cc engine, but it has quite a bit more HP than either of my CB1100's. I think I read stock having about 101HP. The new pipes, etc...I added, according to some test I read online claim about a 25HP gain, making it even more peppy.
Booster Plug according to its literature does not claim any HP increase, only a smoother ride. Reading dozens of reviews from users of it, several on the Z900RS, claim it does just that, make the bike less unpredictable. Both of my Honda CB1100's are very smooth and have an even power delivery that makes riding them very enjoyable, at least for me, and I suppose most of this forum too. I am leaving their engines alone, I like the way they handle and will not buy the Booster plug for either one. The Kawasaki, according to several reviewers of the BP, claim jumpy throttle response, hence the BP to help. I will install it on the Kawasaki soon and report back here what I gain (or lose).

[cocojamboo_imp]

Quote:I think I read stock having about 101HP. The new pipes, etc...I added, according to some test I read online claim about a 25HP gain, making it even more peppy.
25HP gain with only filter- and pipe mods .... I'd really like to read that online test.

[PowerDubs_imp]

If I remember correctly- my old ZRX1200 picked up ..... *edit- just went back and looked- 16.6whp from pipe and jets.


Alain- you are giving the factory injection too much credit. It is NOT smart enough to 'calculate the correct/proper amount of fuel required - no less/no more.' It will not adjust for 100% of the air for any modifications done to the bike.

It is simply built to run correctly on a stock bike and hit an emissions target. It does NOT have a wideband O2 sensor from the factory. Just a plain old simple narrow band.

While it isn't as crude as old CIS or Digifant injection- it is still basic in it's operation to meet it's goal. Once the intake/exhaust is changed outside of it's initial design parameter, the fueling is no longer correct.
To the guy that mentioned the Z900 above, check this out- http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/z900rs.htm

[michael1954]

If I remember correctly- my old ZRX1200 picked up ..... *edit- just went back and looked- 16.6whp from pipe and jets.


Alain- you are giving the factory injection too much credit. It is NOT smart enough to 'calculate the correct/proper amount of fuel required - no less/no more.' It will not adjust for 100% of the air for any modifications done to the bike.

It is simply built to run correctly on a stock bike and hit an emissions target. It does NOT have a wideband O2 sensor from the factory. Just a plain old simple narrow band.

While it isn't as crude as old CIS or Digifant injection- it is still basic in it's operation to meet it's goal. Once the intake/exhaust is changed outside of it's initial design parameter, the fueling is no longer correct.
To the guy that mentioned the Z900 above, check this out- http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/z900rs.htm

THANKS Josh! Just read the page you sent...I think this guy is on to something. I am going to contact Ivan. Me set up on my Z900RS is almost identical to what he has fixed. I am using the Akrapovic Exhaust though instead of the stock exhaust with the Akrapovic Headers & K&N Air Fliter. His mods to the air box look inviting and he does get the almost 25 HP from his bike with all his mods. A little scary to cut holes in the air box, but the jumpiness his page talks about is real, just ride one of these and you will love the CB1100's smoothness even more, but it is a babe in the woods when it comes to matching HP with the Kawasaki, even stock. I may not even waste my time with the Booster Plug and just give him my changes to my bike and go from there. Again, Josh, thanks....Michael