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Bleeding brakes (CB1100A non-ABS)
#2
I'll get the ball rolling by suggesting to take the calipers off the front one at a time with the old fluid inside.
If the handle feels harder it may need grease in the right place?
and the master piston should move light and free when not building against pressure.

Please measure the amount of freeplay and full pull in the handle and compare the measurement after the job is completed to verify the expulsion of any air, it can be a tiny amount that softens the feel of the handle

Once the calipers are off a piece of 6 mm plywood should fit in between the pistons once the pads have been removed, this will stop the pistons "leave home" whilst they are extended to meet the plywood and the ply can then be removed.

this gives a safe way to clean and inspect the pistons, change the pads,push the pistons home to expel the old fluid, re-mount the caliper and repeat on the other side.

Once cleaned open the bleed nipple and drain the old fluid under gravity with the pistons still retracted, it would be a shame to push the old fluid back into the calipers.

once the new fluid is in the system you can close the nipples, build up pressure and set the new pads, at this time there should not be any air in the system but if bubbles emerge from beneath the stainless deflector give them enough time to rise to the top after each pump of the lever.

replace the fluid and just pump the handle paying particular attention not to let the new fluid level empty the reservoir

May sound more difficult than it is but once the order of things is clear there is no difference with a normal system,
If there is some air trapped it will rise to the top by itself slowly.

I hope someone else has more suggestions.
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Messages In This Thread
RE: Bleeding brakes (CB1100A non-ABS) - by max - 09-19-2021, 05:17 PM
RE: Bleeding brakes (CB1100A non-ABS) - by max - 09-20-2021, 07:12 AM

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