10-31-2018, 02:21 PM
Post 651 was a summary, 27 Dec 2017 and summarizes at least some of the testing that led Dave (San Diego) to replace his IACV and solve his idle problem.
There were issues other than the IACV, such as a damaged wire to a TPS or TPS issue, but to solve the issue and not unnecessarily replace the IACV, best to go through the tests (cleaning IACV port in D may not practical and I'd do E before D, saving the IACV for last).
Post 775 is a summary of why we (Max, Popgun, Peter and I) focused on the IACV.
Since it is the most pain of any sensor to change, we wanted to be fairly sure it was the culprit.
It does not seem to be a MAP issue, due to symptoms not matching.
It does not seem to be an EOT issue, per reports in this thread and symptoms not matching
It does not seem to be a TPS issue, due to the recent testing guided by Max. There may have been one or two TPS issues, but not for Dave.
Manual pages 5-74 and 5-75 cover IACV (symptoms seem to match)
Post 651 - Regarding popgun's post 619, referencing "BBS" issues on the Honda Rune Forum: Further research indicates that BBS is black exhaust smoke and fouled spark plugs from running too rich, which that forum has attributed to a TPS issue.
Suggestions if you experience low/high idle issues:
1. Check for active codes, per page 5-12 & 5-13 of the Factory Service Manual, checking the codes lists on pages 5-15 & 5-16
2. Check for stored codes, per pages 5-14 of the FSM
3. If no codes, then insure that there is no vacuum leak. An unlit propane torch applying propane to intake areas, engine at idle, will detect a leak by listening for a change in idle speed. Check vacuum hoses and fittings, one 4 way (17201-MCJ-003, $7) and one 5 way (17201-MCZ-003, $5.60), then snug all 8 clamps from throttle bodies to intake.
A. Disconnect Throttle Position Sensor connector (engine OFF), clean contacts (contact cleaner available at Home Depot or Lowes, etc.), check for damaged wiring and reconnect. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
B. Disconnect Idle Air Control Valve, clean contacts, check for damaged wiring and reconnect. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
C. Follow TPS diagnostics per pages 5-23 thru 5-25 of the FSM. Note comments in posts 615, 618 & 622, especially see Max's post 632 regarding TPS output test. If output is not 0.5 VDC, loosen fasteners (ignition on, engine NOT running) and rotate TPS to obtain 0.5 VDC, throttle closed. After adjusting TPS throttle closed output, do a throttle calibration with ignition on, engine NOT running, by SLOWLY opening and closing throttle, 2-3 times. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
D. Follow IACV diagnostics per pages 5-74 & 5-75 of the FSM. If OK, then remove IACV, clean IACV port and check for unobstructed travel. If not OK, IACV (16430-MJF-D01) is $119.13 from Honda. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
E. Follow EOT (Engine Oil Temperature Sensor) diagnostics per 5-21 of FSM, particularly resistance value of 2.4 to 2.9 Kohms (2,400 to 2,900 ohms) at 20C / 68 F. If not OK, EOT sensor (37750-KPH-701) is $34.56 from Honda. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, re-check the FSM diagnostics. Note that a faulty ECM is a possibility, albeit rare. The only time I recall a failed ECM on a Sportster, was due to an internal 5 VDC sensor power supply failure.
The EOT (Engine Oil Temperature) sensor and IACV (idle Air Control Valve) are available from Honda. The Honda Rune Forum has posted a TPS replacement for the Keihin JT6H TPS: 16060-MBZ-A11, $114.29 from honda. This is for a 2006 CB600F. The Rune Forum posted that this sensor is a Keihin JT6H, but we have not yet verified compatibility
For non-USA owners, check that the latest ECM program is installed by your dealer.
There were issues other than the IACV, such as a damaged wire to a TPS or TPS issue, but to solve the issue and not unnecessarily replace the IACV, best to go through the tests (cleaning IACV port in D may not practical and I'd do E before D, saving the IACV for last).
Post 775 is a summary of why we (Max, Popgun, Peter and I) focused on the IACV.
Since it is the most pain of any sensor to change, we wanted to be fairly sure it was the culprit.
It does not seem to be a MAP issue, due to symptoms not matching.
It does not seem to be an EOT issue, per reports in this thread and symptoms not matching
It does not seem to be a TPS issue, due to the recent testing guided by Max. There may have been one or two TPS issues, but not for Dave.
Manual pages 5-74 and 5-75 cover IACV (symptoms seem to match)
Post 651 - Regarding popgun's post 619, referencing "BBS" issues on the Honda Rune Forum: Further research indicates that BBS is black exhaust smoke and fouled spark plugs from running too rich, which that forum has attributed to a TPS issue.
Suggestions if you experience low/high idle issues:
1. Check for active codes, per page 5-12 & 5-13 of the Factory Service Manual, checking the codes lists on pages 5-15 & 5-16
2. Check for stored codes, per pages 5-14 of the FSM
3. If no codes, then insure that there is no vacuum leak. An unlit propane torch applying propane to intake areas, engine at idle, will detect a leak by listening for a change in idle speed. Check vacuum hoses and fittings, one 4 way (17201-MCJ-003, $7) and one 5 way (17201-MCZ-003, $5.60), then snug all 8 clamps from throttle bodies to intake.
A. Disconnect Throttle Position Sensor connector (engine OFF), clean contacts (contact cleaner available at Home Depot or Lowes, etc.), check for damaged wiring and reconnect. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
B. Disconnect Idle Air Control Valve, clean contacts, check for damaged wiring and reconnect. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
C. Follow TPS diagnostics per pages 5-23 thru 5-25 of the FSM. Note comments in posts 615, 618 & 622, especially see Max's post 632 regarding TPS output test. If output is not 0.5 VDC, loosen fasteners (ignition on, engine NOT running) and rotate TPS to obtain 0.5 VDC, throttle closed. After adjusting TPS throttle closed output, do a throttle calibration with ignition on, engine NOT running, by SLOWLY opening and closing throttle, 2-3 times. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
D. Follow IACV diagnostics per pages 5-74 & 5-75 of the FSM. If OK, then remove IACV, clean IACV port and check for unobstructed travel. If not OK, IACV (16430-MJF-D01) is $119.13 from Honda. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, continue
E. Follow EOT (Engine Oil Temperature Sensor) diagnostics per 5-21 of FSM, particularly resistance value of 2.4 to 2.9 Kohms (2,400 to 2,900 ohms) at 20C / 68 F. If not OK, EOT sensor (37750-KPH-701) is $34.56 from Honda. GO FOR A RIDE. If issue persists, re-check the FSM diagnostics. Note that a faulty ECM is a possibility, albeit rare. The only time I recall a failed ECM on a Sportster, was due to an internal 5 VDC sensor power supply failure.
The EOT (Engine Oil Temperature) sensor and IACV (idle Air Control Valve) are available from Honda. The Honda Rune Forum has posted a TPS replacement for the Keihin JT6H TPS: 16060-MBZ-A11, $114.29 from honda. This is for a 2006 CB600F. The Rune Forum posted that this sensor is a Keihin JT6H, but we have not yet verified compatibility
For non-USA owners, check that the latest ECM program is installed by your dealer.