04-30-2018, 12:01 AM
Hi Guys. I didn't spend as much time on the IACV on Saturday as I had planned. (I did an oil change and other maintenance items to the VFR though). I also went to the dealer and ordered spark plugs and the tool to hold the cam chain tensioner, which is necessary to inspect the valve clearances (an expensive little bugger). I reinstalled the IACV, and lubed it with motor oil. Reinstalling the air box was a real challenge. Magnus - did you experience this also, or was I just doing something wrong?
When initially powered, when you turn the ignition switch on, the IACV cycles to move the piston out, or into the cylinder. It moves out, then stops.
Besides Magnus and I (and Honda dealers), are we the only ones to have performed this repair? Magnus was able to remove his rear fender without removing the rear wheel, and I was wondering how other people did this. The FSM says to disconnect the shocks to lower the rear wheel and then remove the RH side shock, and remove the fender from the RH side. I looked at the clearance available if I did this and decided to just remove the rear wheel entirely, which I believe helped to make the entire job a lot easier. I also struggled to remove, and install, one of the many sections of the multiple-piece air box - I had to force it out and then back in, distorting the plastic to get it to fit (I am lucky it didn't crack). I was wondering if Magnus, or others, found an easier way to do this.
I'll work a little each evening this week to reinstall all of the parts I removed to get at the IACV. My plan is to perform the valve inspection on Saturday (I have to wait for the cam chain tool from the dealer). If no valves require adjustment then hopefully I will be able to start the engine on Saturday and determine if the new IACV repairs the idle problem.
On the topic of valve inspection: I believe Max posted that he had to move the large, plastic (heat?) shield on the top of the cylinder head, is this correct, or do I have to completely remove it? The valve inspection looks like another daunting task (oh how I miss the old days when bikes were simple to work on).
When initially powered, when you turn the ignition switch on, the IACV cycles to move the piston out, or into the cylinder. It moves out, then stops.
Besides Magnus and I (and Honda dealers), are we the only ones to have performed this repair? Magnus was able to remove his rear fender without removing the rear wheel, and I was wondering how other people did this. The FSM says to disconnect the shocks to lower the rear wheel and then remove the RH side shock, and remove the fender from the RH side. I looked at the clearance available if I did this and decided to just remove the rear wheel entirely, which I believe helped to make the entire job a lot easier. I also struggled to remove, and install, one of the many sections of the multiple-piece air box - I had to force it out and then back in, distorting the plastic to get it to fit (I am lucky it didn't crack). I was wondering if Magnus, or others, found an easier way to do this.
I'll work a little each evening this week to reinstall all of the parts I removed to get at the IACV. My plan is to perform the valve inspection on Saturday (I have to wait for the cam chain tool from the dealer). If no valves require adjustment then hopefully I will be able to start the engine on Saturday and determine if the new IACV repairs the idle problem.
On the topic of valve inspection: I believe Max posted that he had to move the large, plastic (heat?) shield on the top of the cylinder head, is this correct, or do I have to completely remove it? The valve inspection looks like another daunting task (oh how I miss the old days when bikes were simple to work on).