Goldwing Rider Pegs (wider than stock ones)

[Huladog_imp]

Sorry I took so long to get to Part 2 but when I started the peg installation I did it before I went to work the other day and only had time today to complete it since I took a day off to visit the doctor.

Grinding some relief for the shifter bolt was no big deal, went pretty fast and probably took me longer to gather up my tools than it took to grind a little aluminum away.

Shop Safety Talk: Wear some kind of eye protection because the Dremel will throw up a bunch of tiny metal chips that would hurt like hell if they get in your eye. You'll see the tiny chips in the following photos.





Right about now I said "oh-oh, the shift lever rubs against the inside of the peg". Never thought about that. The CB11 is really built to some tight tolerances and the stock peg has enough clearances around it that none of this is an issue until you start messing around with stuff that was never designed for the CB11 in the first place.

Yellow arrow shows you the new clearance with the shifter bolt. Red arrow shows you where I started noticing interference with that rounded off end to that pin and later with the bend in the shifter lever.



Dremel to the rescue and this time it took a lot longer to grind a bit, test the fit, grind some more, test fit some more. Your experience may vary due to slight differences in aftermarket "Goldwing" pegs from overseas. The aluminum alloy they use in the stock pegs and the aftermarket pegs isn't very hard so a Dremel makes quick work of it, just take it slow and careful even though you will never see your handiwork in daily use.

Yellow arrow shows you the curved relief I ground for the shift bolt. Red arrow shows you the area on the inside of peg that needed to be ground down for relief from the shift lever and protruding pin.



View from the top shows you the clearance I needed to grind.



And lastly, using the super-high-tech-LED-lighted-mirror-on-a-stick that I learned about using to check your oil level while sitting on the bike (from another forum topic) I checked the clearance from below while working the lever just to be sure.



I also checked the clearance by slipping a scrap of thin cardboard into the gap and worked the lever and watched to see if the peg moved at all.

Looks good but just to be super-sure I rubbed a blue Sharpie all over the shifter lever and inside of the peg like a DIY machinist's bluing so I could see if it rubbed while riding later.

You want to know how careful Honda seems to be when building our bikes? Do this mod and the very first step is to bend back the ends of the cotter pins securing the peg pivot pins, you'll see that the factory carefully folded the ends of the cotter pins around the peg pivot pin so it follows the curve of the pin and it'll take you a little time to find a small screwdriver or utility knife blade in order to simply pry those carefully folded ends of the cotter pins away so you can straighten then out to be removed!

Aloha,
Huladog