03-18-2016, 10:30 AM
+1 to all of the above.
If my bike had a lot of metal in the oil I would be seriously worried. If there is any, and unless a failure has occurred there shouldn't be, the filter will trap it. There must be some very fine metal breakdown from engine and transmission (after all metal parts do wear despite lubrication) in oil, but that is not the prime reason oil must be changed. It is the "products of combustion" that need to be removed. This is mainly scoured from the cylinder walls and piston sidewall surfaces and due to its qualities causes degradation of the oil itself. If oil is never changed ultimately it will loose its ability to lubricate. Expensive racing quality, synthetic, oils resist this better than cheaper products. But if any approved oil is changed on schedule then, whatever the brand or approved grade, it is still doing its job. The only time oil is completely removed from engine parts is on a complete strip down and wash. If you are worried about the dirty, filthy oil in the cooler consider the oil that adheres to the crankcase surfaces, the bearings and galleries, in fact anywhere that is lubricated. This is particularly true of synthetics which, thankfully, have high adherent properties. That is why they work well.
Water cooled? Not for me. "Oils is oils", but water? Wow that stuff can vary from mildly clean to highly toxic. If I need a remote area top up of oil almost anything will do. Even some diesel oil will do. But some of the water available in remote areas is highly acidic, alkaline, full of dissolved contaminants ranging from rust and corrosion accelerators to dead kangaroo. That is why Cormanus (and others) boil it and add tea before consuming it, and I drink beer as a healthy, natural, hydration fluid.
Does the cooling system on the CB work effectively in all the ambient conditions likely to be encountered? Well, like AzBob, I have ridden mine in very high temperatures and not had the oil temp light come on, even after extended periods of idling or low airflow. I think someone on the forum fitted an oil temperature gauge. Their observations would be interesting, particularly in conjunction with reducing oil cooler effective area.
Cheers
If my bike had a lot of metal in the oil I would be seriously worried. If there is any, and unless a failure has occurred there shouldn't be, the filter will trap it. There must be some very fine metal breakdown from engine and transmission (after all metal parts do wear despite lubrication) in oil, but that is not the prime reason oil must be changed. It is the "products of combustion" that need to be removed. This is mainly scoured from the cylinder walls and piston sidewall surfaces and due to its qualities causes degradation of the oil itself. If oil is never changed ultimately it will loose its ability to lubricate. Expensive racing quality, synthetic, oils resist this better than cheaper products. But if any approved oil is changed on schedule then, whatever the brand or approved grade, it is still doing its job. The only time oil is completely removed from engine parts is on a complete strip down and wash. If you are worried about the dirty, filthy oil in the cooler consider the oil that adheres to the crankcase surfaces, the bearings and galleries, in fact anywhere that is lubricated. This is particularly true of synthetics which, thankfully, have high adherent properties. That is why they work well.
Water cooled? Not for me. "Oils is oils", but water? Wow that stuff can vary from mildly clean to highly toxic. If I need a remote area top up of oil almost anything will do. Even some diesel oil will do. But some of the water available in remote areas is highly acidic, alkaline, full of dissolved contaminants ranging from rust and corrosion accelerators to dead kangaroo. That is why Cormanus (and others) boil it and add tea before consuming it, and I drink beer as a healthy, natural, hydration fluid.
Does the cooling system on the CB work effectively in all the ambient conditions likely to be encountered? Well, like AzBob, I have ridden mine in very high temperatures and not had the oil temp light come on, even after extended periods of idling or low airflow. I think someone on the forum fitted an oil temperature gauge. Their observations would be interesting, particularly in conjunction with reducing oil cooler effective area.
Cheers
