05-30-2017, 01:46 AM
Aka Tsubasa's advice is good. You cannot "shift" the bearings around - they are both fully seated inward. How did you determine one of the bearings has "lifted" from its seat?
Here's the easy test. Assemble the wheel with the axle and spacers OFF the bike, no forks involved. If the wheel rotates, no mechanical problem. With the axle removed, do the bearings rotate freely? Can you move the inner spacer up/down a little when leveraged by a screwdriver, or with your finger? It could be slightly movable or snug as it has to shift so that bearings can be removed.
I suspect the problem is a mis-assembly problem. Regardless, there is unlikely any damage.
If your bike is non-ABS, you can tell if the wheel is facing the correctly by the raised cast letters on the spokes - they are on the left (port) side. The wheel appears to be symmetrical but don't assume it. Check that the tire rotation arrows are going in the correct direction too - the tech might have installed it backwards.
The distance between the two bearing seats and the length of the inner spacer are nearly identical. Both seals and bearings are the same. The left spacer is shorter than the right one, and a portion of the fat end of the axle makes acts as a spacer. When you put the axle all the way through and tightened the nut, you had to either tighten the pinch bolts on the left fork leg, or used the correct hex tool in the axle.
By tightening the left side pinch bolts, you likely pulled the fork over to the right, slightly pinching them together, and causing caliper/pad misalignment. Leave all the caliper bolts loose. With a friend's help, loosen all 4 pinch bolts, grab the brakes and pump up and down a couple times on the bars so the forks move freely and centers itself on the axle, continue to grab the brake, and have your friend tighten the pinch bolts and caliper bolts.
When having a wheel replaced, assemble the spacers on the axle and leave them all at home - no wheel balancing method needs the spacers.
Here's the easy test. Assemble the wheel with the axle and spacers OFF the bike, no forks involved. If the wheel rotates, no mechanical problem. With the axle removed, do the bearings rotate freely? Can you move the inner spacer up/down a little when leveraged by a screwdriver, or with your finger? It could be slightly movable or snug as it has to shift so that bearings can be removed.
I suspect the problem is a mis-assembly problem. Regardless, there is unlikely any damage.
If your bike is non-ABS, you can tell if the wheel is facing the correctly by the raised cast letters on the spokes - they are on the left (port) side. The wheel appears to be symmetrical but don't assume it. Check that the tire rotation arrows are going in the correct direction too - the tech might have installed it backwards.
The distance between the two bearing seats and the length of the inner spacer are nearly identical. Both seals and bearings are the same. The left spacer is shorter than the right one, and a portion of the fat end of the axle makes acts as a spacer. When you put the axle all the way through and tightened the nut, you had to either tighten the pinch bolts on the left fork leg, or used the correct hex tool in the axle.
By tightening the left side pinch bolts, you likely pulled the fork over to the right, slightly pinching them together, and causing caliper/pad misalignment. Leave all the caliper bolts loose. With a friend's help, loosen all 4 pinch bolts, grab the brakes and pump up and down a couple times on the bars so the forks move freely and centers itself on the axle, continue to grab the brake, and have your friend tighten the pinch bolts and caliper bolts.
When having a wheel replaced, assemble the spacers on the axle and leave them all at home - no wheel balancing method needs the spacers.