01-05-2018, 10:58 AM
(01-05-2018, 05:21 AM)736cc_imp Wrote: My bro raced an FZ750 for several seasons at London, Pocono, and even Daytona. Flat-out wfo of course. He checked the valves and they were 100% in spec every time. He also worked as a Honda mechanic and advises to not worry..The early Honda V4s had some serious issues with cam lobes and many a cam was replaced, especially on the 1st generation Interceptors. It was actually a recall and Honda paid the costs.
Clean oil and avoid over-revving w/ a CB1100 will be all the CB1100 will ever need. There’s no way anybody can be more precise than the factory Japanese mechanic that built your motor.
There’s also the risk of disturbing a perfectly aligned cam, gasket, o-ring, shim, or drop a metal shaving, dirt, or screw something up by taking the motor or putting it back together wrong. Or waste $800(!) for nothing.
Screw-type adjusters do require monitoring. My 1982 V45 Sabre had the NOTORIOUS forked adjust levers w/ screwed tappets (and a factory flaw w/ top end oil feed). It was a real PITA to get to the rear cylinders but I checked valves at 5,000, 10,000 and 15,000 miles w/ nary an adjustment needed, the bike was never making funny tapping noises, so I skipped checking them until 55,000 miles. ALL 16 VALVES HAD ZERO CLEARANCE AND THE CAM LOBES ALL HAD MAJOR GROOVES FROM THE ADJUSTERS! Another buddy had same bike, same exact issue and his bike also ran ok.
Bike ran fine, smooth as ever.
Zero clearance, of course, is terrible and grooves aren't so good either.
Obviously a bike that seems to run fine may not be fine inside.
I've done the valves on every bike I've owned; some have well-designed valve gear and tend to stay in adjustment, others don't. The Suzuki air-oil cooled inline fours from the early Katana/GSXR family were very good about staying in spec. They used the forked followers, screw/locknut adjusters. Air-cooled BMWs, the same (airheads).
But I've seen too many example of valves that did go out considerably between inspections.
In the case of the CB1100, at least the 2013, in truth I wouldn't be at all concerned to go a little longer. But...if you check them, say, by 10,000 miles, and all is in perfect spec (or very close, and adjusted per the manual), you could probably run out to 20K miles before looking at them again.
