12-15-2019, 09:22 AM
Thanks for all the work Pawel, we appreciate the effort and feedback, your work makes it easier for the next guy to solve his problem and helped me better understand what goes on in the swingarm bearings and that washers are available to fix this.
Totally agree that we like to understand what exactly is wrong, not jumping to conclusions and firmly establishing the facts by experiment, that's how we get ahead.
That is why i want to correct a statement i made earlier about the nut bottoming out on the bolt.
It appeared that way but i had a closer look at my own situation and i don't think that was the case.
The following picture with inserts shows the nut installed on my bike with 4 threads exposed, it also shows the nut bottomed out on the hollow bolt with at least 7 threads exposed.
That means that there is about 3 turns left on the bolt when installed before it reaches the end of adjustment.
That should be interesting info to other members wondering about their assembly process, here goes;
![[Image: 990c4f46edc111d5a71a0091e6747a89.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201912/990c4f46edc111d5a71a0091e6747a89.jpg)
In closing i would like to point to a video that makes it very easy to check rear wheel alignment accurately and can be done in 5 minutes just in case it helps you with assembly;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=by7L3M8a...e=youtu.be
There is also a very simple way to check correct chain adjustment, the chain should just reach this point on the lower chain guide when pushed to the limit, if it does not reach this point it's too tight and when it reaches farther back it should be adjusted tighter.
![[Image: cb47d4af60c4ba3a8d43148dae245135.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201912/cb47d4af60c4ba3a8d43148dae245135.jpg)
I made a mistake once not realizing that if the chain is too tight the chain stretches when you ride the bike because the geometry changes the angle of the hinge points and damaged the chain very quickly, that change in geometry is why there has to be some play in the chain to make up for that change.
Totally agree that we like to understand what exactly is wrong, not jumping to conclusions and firmly establishing the facts by experiment, that's how we get ahead.
That is why i want to correct a statement i made earlier about the nut bottoming out on the bolt.
It appeared that way but i had a closer look at my own situation and i don't think that was the case.
The following picture with inserts shows the nut installed on my bike with 4 threads exposed, it also shows the nut bottomed out on the hollow bolt with at least 7 threads exposed.
That means that there is about 3 turns left on the bolt when installed before it reaches the end of adjustment.
That should be interesting info to other members wondering about their assembly process, here goes;
![[Image: 990c4f46edc111d5a71a0091e6747a89.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201912/990c4f46edc111d5a71a0091e6747a89.jpg)
In closing i would like to point to a video that makes it very easy to check rear wheel alignment accurately and can be done in 5 minutes just in case it helps you with assembly;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=by7L3M8a...e=youtu.be
There is also a very simple way to check correct chain adjustment, the chain should just reach this point on the lower chain guide when pushed to the limit, if it does not reach this point it's too tight and when it reaches farther back it should be adjusted tighter.
![[Image: cb47d4af60c4ba3a8d43148dae245135.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201912/cb47d4af60c4ba3a8d43148dae245135.jpg)
I made a mistake once not realizing that if the chain is too tight the chain stretches when you ride the bike because the geometry changes the angle of the hinge points and damaged the chain very quickly, that change in geometry is why there has to be some play in the chain to make up for that change.
