Rear brake pad replacement

[Carguy1959_imp]

If you need to remove fluid, use a turkey baster. I use one when the fluid gets old, suck out the old put in the new. If it's real bad do it, wait about a week of use and do it again. Brake fluid does cycle thru the system.

[Rolls_imp]

A sudden burst of industriousness resulted in a quick pre-dawn change of rear pads by light of iPhone before heading over the mountains to my cars and coffee in Soquel near the ocean. I have the factory manual and I’ve done this job before, but I still found LR’s step by step most useful.

I was careful not to forget to transfer the two-piece backings from the old pads to the new.

I’ve been using EBC HH pads and remain pleased with them; a slight improvement in feel and grip over the already excellent Honda pads. This set of rears are my third (original plus a previous replacement, and now these) at about 39,700 miles.

[easy_imp]

I don't want to ruin your complacence but BEFORE pressing the piston into the caliper you should clean them properly. Use small brush and breake fluid for the job then clean all residue with brake cleaner. Will prevent to damage pistons seal and enjoy safe ride in the future.
Hawk!

[dsan1964_imp]

A sudden burst of industriousness resulted in a quick pre-dawn change of rear pads by light of iPhone before heading over the mountains to my cars and coffee in Soquel near the ocean. I have the factory manual and I’ve done this job before, but I still found LR’s step by step most useful.

I was careful not to forget to transfer the two-piece backings from the old pads to the new.

I’ve been using EBC HH pads and remain pleased with them; a slight improvement in feel and grip over the already excellent Honda pads. This set of rears are my third (original plus a previous replacement, and now these) at about 39,700 miles.

Rolls I was at coffee and cars today was you're bike in the back on the left? Red one?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Rolls_imp]

I don't want to ruin your complacence but BEFORE pressing the piston into the caliper you should clean them properly. Use small brush and breake fluid for the job then clean all residue with brake cleaner. Will prevent to damage pistons seal and enjoy safe ride in the future.
Hawk!

Yep, easy. I agree. I cleaned the piston using brake cleaner and my fingers for scrubbing before pushing it back in the bore.

A sudden burst of industriousness resulted in a quick pre-dawn change of rear pads by light of iPhone before heading over the mountains to my cars and coffee in Soquel near the ocean. I have the factory manual and I’ve done this job before, but I still found LR’s step by step most useful.

I was careful not to forget to transfer the two-piece backings from the old pads to the new.

I’ve been using EBC HH pads and remain pleased with them; a slight improvement in feel and grip over the already excellent Honda pads. This set of rears are my third (original plus a previous replacement, and now these) at about 39,700 miles.

Rolls I was at coffee and cars today was you're bike in the back on the left? Red one?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sure was! Good eye, spotting it in that remote parking space. Saw your beautiful 2014 on the other side of the facility. Looking good!

[url=https://refract.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Forum-Photos/i-gPtZ89D/A]

[dsan1964_imp]

New brake pads on rear. 13,300. Could have gone a bit more but why...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Delphisa]

Thanks everyone. I was able to easily swap out the rear pads in about 15 minutes. Next time, it'll take 10 minutes.

My OE pads had about 12k miles on them and while they weren't worn to the limit, I was stunned at how damaged they were. The trailing edges were beveled and very rough and crumbly -- the material easily broke off in my fingers.

I replaced the pads with another set of OE pads (P/N 43105-MWD-425). I also replaced the rear caliper mounting bolt per Honda's recommendation (P/N 90180-MN8-006). The bolt comes with some thread lock on it. I could have reused the original bolt but didn't mind replacing it. Total cost of parts was $43.00.

Replacement is very straightforward:

1 - Press the piston into the caliper by pushing the caliper inwards, towards the wheel (the caliper only has one piston, on the outboard side).

2 - Loosen but do not remove the pad mounting pin (8mm head).

3 - Remove the rear caliper mounting bolt (12mm head).

4 - Remove the pad mounting pin.

5 - Rotate the caliper upwards, towards the front of the bike. If you've compressed the piston sufficiently, the pads will simply fall out.

6 - Clean up the inside of the caliper.

7 - With the caliper rotated upwards, slide in the new pads. Be sure they engage the spring on the upper surface of the caliper, and be sure the tangs on the pads hang on the front of the caliper. It's easy to see what's happening while the caliper is rotated upwards.

8 - Lower the caliper onto the rotor.

9 - Apply a tiny dab of grease to the tip of the pad mounting pin. Reinstall the pad mounting pin through the holes in the pads and the caliper. You'll need to press the pads up against the spring for the holes to line up. Don't fully tighten the pad mounting pin just yet.

10 - Install the (new) rear caliper mounting bolt. Torque to 16 lb-ft. My 1/2" drive torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I simply used an open-end 12mm wrench and did my best.

11 - Tighten the pad mounting pin. Torque to 13 lb-ft. Again, my torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I used an open-end 8mm wrench.

12- Press down on brake pedal to extend the piston and set the pads against the rotor.


[url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3D9A54F3-B663-4BE6-9B41-821B753147E7_zpsccfnuidb.jpg.html]

[url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/35A6A9E5-7515-45F7-ABE0-5110EE0B495B_zps8ob5rbtm.jpg.html]

[url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1C4F7274-5D2E-4BB9-A306-4C038090AF1F_zpsnlqlyh2z.jpg.html]

Thank you LongRanger for the detailed process! It helped me making the job, last week. I took some new photographs, as yours are no more available...
Step 2 and 3:


Step5:


Before step 7 : I checked the brake fluid level was not too high in the reservoir:


I used a large pair of clamps, with wooden tabs, for retracting the piston :


And checked again the brake fluid reservoir after piston retraction:


Then it's done


My rear brake tabs were really worth replacing, at about 27000 km (16700 miles):

[peterbaron]

Good tutorial, both by writing and pics

[GoldOxide_imp]

Thanks everyone. I was able to easily swap out the rear pads in about 15 minutes. Next time, it'll take 10 minutes.

My OE pads had about 12k miles on them and while they weren't worn to the limit, I was stunned at how damaged they were. The trailing edges were beveled and very rough and crumbly -- the material easily broke off in my fingers.

I replaced the pads with another set of OE pads (P/N 43105-MWD-425). I also replaced the rear caliper mounting bolt per Honda's recommendation (P/N 90180-MN8-006). The bolt comes with some thread lock on it. I could have reused the original bolt but didn't mind replacing it. Total cost of parts was $43.00.

Replacement is very straightforward:

1 - Press the piston into the caliper by pushing the caliper inwards, towards the wheel (the caliper only has one piston, on the outboard side).

2 - Loosen but do not remove the pad mounting pin (8mm head).

3 - Remove the rear caliper mounting bolt (12mm head).

4 - Remove the pad mounting pin.

5 - Rotate the caliper upwards, towards the front of the bike. If you've compressed the piston sufficiently, the pads will simply fall out.

6 - Clean up the inside of the caliper.

7 - With the caliper rotated upwards, slide in the new pads. Be sure they engage the spring on the upper surface of the caliper, and be sure the tangs on the pads hang on the front of the caliper. It's easy to see what's happening while the caliper is rotated upwards.

8 - Lower the caliper onto the rotor.

9 - Apply a tiny dab of grease to the tip of the pad mounting pin. Reinstall the pad mounting pin through the holes in the pads and the caliper. You'll need to press the pads up against the spring for the holes to line up. Don't fully tighten the pad mounting pin just yet.

10 - Install the (new) rear caliper mounting bolt. Torque to 16 lb-ft. My 1/2" drive torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I simply used an open-end 12mm wrench and did my best.

11 - Tighten the pad mounting pin. Torque to 13 lb-ft. Again, my torque wrench wouldn't fit, so I used an open-end 8mm wrench.

12- Press down on brake pedal to extend the piston and set the pads against the rotor.


[url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3D9A54F3-B663-4BE6-9B41-821B753147E7_zpsccfnuidb.jpg.html]

[url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/35A6A9E5-7515-45F7-ABE0-5110EE0B495B_zps8ob5rbtm.jpg.html]

[url=http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/ericlevy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1C4F7274-5D2E-4BB9-A306-4C038090AF1F_zpsnlqlyh2z.jpg.html]

Thank you LongRanger for the detailed process! It helped me making the job, last week. I took some new photographs, as yours are no more available...
Step 2 and 3:


Step5:


Before step 7 : I checked the brake fluid level was not too high in the reservoir:


I used a large pair of clamps, with wooden tabs, for retracting the piston :


And checked again the brake fluid reservoir after piston retraction:


Then it's done


My rear brake tabs were really worth replacing, at about 27000 km (16700 miles):

A very crisp interpretation Delphisa. Thanks for supporting the "textbook" effort with your images.

[Cormanus]

One still had a good bit of life in it, Delphissa. Funny how they wear differently.

I'd add one more instruction somewhere early on: as soon as you can see it clearly, check how the springs all fit together as one of them at least will fall out at a critical moment.