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I don't remember having too much trouble. But my bike does not have ABS so that was not in the way. I think I left one portion of the airbox loose in the frame as it was hard to remove completely.
Just FYI I noticed no change after replacing my IACV but then after a few hundred miles and one long spirited ride it seemed to fix itself. I don't know if it was related to the replacement or not. For the past year and 2500 miles or so the bike has been running perfectly.
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Looking good Dave, is the valve check necessary?
The reason for removal of the heat shield is the space required to lift the valve cover over the cam chain guide, which sticks out above the rest of the gear.
i would have a good look under the guide before removing it to the right, to see if you clear the guide and may damage the gasket!
However since i have no wsml there may be a different procedure that i am not aware of, my little writeup was more meant as an insight rather than step by step instruction and just mentions some of the pitfalls.
Did have to bend the heatshield and it was a bit stubborn, also note the grease inside the coil terminal rubber boots, this really helped.
And yes, let peter have a close look at it, good idea, it may be very subtle but worth finding.
 
.
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(05-02-2018, 07:47 AM)max_imp Wrote: Looking good Dave, is the valve check necessary?
The reason for removal of the heat shield is the space required to lift the valve cover over the cam chain guide, which sticks out above the rest of the gear.
i would have a good look under the guide before removing it to the right, to see if you clear the guide and may damage the gasket!
However since i have no wsml there may be a different procedure that i am not aware of, my little writeup was more meant as an insight rather than step by step instruction and just mentions some of the pitfalls.
Did have to bend the heatshield and it was a bit stubborn, also note the grease inside the coil terminal rubber boots, this really helped.
And yes, let peter have a close look at it, good idea, it may be very subtle but worth finding.
.
Max ,
Thanks for referral, will do my best...
pb
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Hi Guys. Bike is completely assembled except for the seat, gas tank, and side covers. I plan to inspect the valve clearances on Saturday. FSM suggests inspection at 6k; bike now has just over 14k. I normally go by the factory recommendations but with the feedback from this forum I figured it wouldn't hurt to wait a little longer.
Magnus: I had a really hard time removing the middle section of the air box. I did not realize it at the time, but I bent the metallic brake line leading to the ABS modulator when I forced the air box out. I did not remove the fwd section of the air box that attaches with screws directly into the throttle bodies - I was able to shove it far enough to the side so that I could remove the IACV. (this saved a lot of time).
Is Peterbaron the guy who can look at my old IACV and determine what is wrong with it? If I determine that my new IACV cures the idle problem I am happy to send it to him.
My hat is off to Magnus, who replaced his IACV. This job has been very tedious. It's been like working on a Chinese jigsaw puzzle. Even installing the rear fender was challenging due to making sure the wires are all properly tucked into the plastic cover between the fender and the frame, near the seat lock.
Max: What is wsml?
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workshop manual, should have not used the wrong abbreviation, sorry Dave.
Ok on the valve service, i thought you had done more km's, at this stage you are more likely to do some damage than good, that was my impression when i did mine, i hope you have feeler gauges that have 0.01 mm increments, 0.05 ( the usual ones ) are not accurate enough for this kind of work and i actually got two sets because these are very vulnerable even to rotate in and out of the cover handle, they have 0.01 0.02 0.03 0.04 0.05 mm. etc.so really thin and easy to damage and i keep them well oiled to stop rust.
most important is to write the values and odometer reading down during the measurement and keep them so you can spot a trend in the future when comparing the checks and see which ones are changing values from spec.
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I’m reading the FSM to learn how to inspect my valve clearances tomorrow. I have read and reread the post by Max showing how he did this (thank you Max). Before I begin I have some questions – directed to Max and anybody else who has inspected their valve clearances.
1. Max stated that he did not loosen the tensioner, like Honda recommends. I do not understand why you would want to loosen the cam chain tensioner to perform a valve inspection. If the cams had to be removed to perform a valve adjustment I can understand why you would want to do this. I bought the neat little $110.00 tensioner stopper (part number 07AMG-001A100) from Honda, but I prefer to not use it, unless I have to. Can I get some feedback on this please?
2. Honda says to remove the heat shield, but Max was able to slide it back to gain access – can I get some feedback on this also please? Also, did you completely remove the coil assembly, or just move it back?
3. For Max: You stated “…I ended up greasing the little boots on the coils on the inside because it made it easy to slip them over the little plastic ridges…”. Are you talking about the spark plug wires? Are these wires removed from the coils?
4. I just discovered that Max is recommending that I use feeler gauges that have .01mm increments – this is .00039 inch! I have .001-inch increments. I have the nominal size, +/-.001 inch, which is the tolerance. You don’t think this will work? I will see if I can purchase some new gauges before I start if I need to.
Wish me luck. This looks like a two-weekend task for me (if I don’t have to adjust any valves – I’m praying I don’t), giving that I’ll probably only spend 5 hours on it Saturday, and none on Sunday.
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Just happened to be on the page when this post rolled in, Hi Dave;
(05-04-2018, 04:33 PM)Dave_imp Wrote: I’m reading the FSM to learn how to inspect my valve clearances tomorrow. I have read and reread the post by Max showing how he did this (thank you Max). Before I begin I have some questions – directed to Max and anybody else who has inspected their valve clearances.
1. Max stated that he did not loosen the tensioner, like Honda recommends. I do not understand why you would want to loosen the cam chain tensioner to perform a valve inspection. If the cams had to be removed to perform a valve adjustment I can understand why you would want to do this. I bought the neat little $110.00 tensioner stopper (part number 07AMG-001A100) from Honda, but I prefer to not use it, unless I have to. Can I get some feedback on this please?
2. Honda says to remove the heat shield, but Max was able to slide it back to gain access – can I get some feedback on this also please? Also, did you completely remove the coil assembly, or just move it back?
3. For Max: You stated “…I ended up greasing the little boots on the coils on the inside because it made it easy to slip them over the little plastic ridges…”. Are you talking about the spark plug wires? Are these wires removed from the coils?
4. I just discovered that Max is recommending that I use feeler gauges that have .01mm increments – this is .00039 inch! I have .001-inch increments. I have the nominal size, +/-.001 inch, which is the tolerance. You don’t think this will work? I will see if I can purchase some new gauges before I start if I need to.
Wish me luck. This looks like a two-weekend task for me (if I don’t have to adjust any valves – I’m praying I don’t), giving that I’ll probably only spend 5 hours on it Saturday, and none on Sunday.
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Max = you are the best
pb
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[quote='peterbaron' pid='204403' dateline='1525520444']
Max = you are the best
I second that!
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Just wanted to give the team an update: Everything I need to remove from the bike to check my valve clearances, except the valve cover itself, has been removed. I actually made a flow chart, with the FSM page numbers shown, to help me while I flipped back and forth between about ten sections of the FSM to do this, that helped a lot. Working 10 and 11 hour days has reduced the time available to work on my bike, but if I can get out of work at a decent time today I plan to inspect the valve clearance tonight. I cannot find a feeler gauge with .01 mm increments, so I'll just use my gauges that have .001 inch increments. I'm praying that none of the valves require adjustment. I removed one spark plug and it looks as good as new (14,000+ miles), but I plan on replacing the plugs ayway. I ordered the spark plug socket that Ferret recommended.
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