Oil

[CA200_imp]

I don't know about you guys but after working in the industry for 25 year I will send the extra few bucks and use only motorcycle only blended oil in mine. I have seen way to many studies and charts over the years. I like Spectro oils and
after this oil change will switch to Spectro Full syn.

[flynrider]

Are we better off using the full syn 5w40 or conventional 15w40 Rotella..Which is more important the viscosity number or synthetic component Thanks for any imput..

Synthetic really has one basic advantage over dino oil. It has a much higher resistance to heat. To me that is important because I'm running an air cooled engine in temps that are regularly over 100 degrees.

I ran an oil analysis series on my CB750 when I was using dino oil. In the summer temps oil that started out as 20w-50 was actually a thin 20 weight after being cooked for 3K miles. Two options are to change the oil every 1500 miles in summer, or use a synthetic that won't degrade as much. I plan on doing an oil analysis series on the Rotella synthetic this summer to see how it holds up.

As far as viscosity goes, the first number in the multiweight spec doesn't matter much to me, as it never gets cold enough here for that to be applicable. The second number, the "hot" weight, is important. Honda's old recommendation for air cooled engines was 10w-40 in normal temps and 20w-50 for hot climates. I haven't run across a JASO-MA synthetic that goes to 50 weight, so I'm making do with 40.

[Scoobynut_imp]

Are we better off using the full syn 5w40 or conventional 15w40 Rotella..Which is more important the viscosity number or synthetic component Thanks for any imput..

Synthetic really has one basic advantage over dino oil. It has a much higher resistance to heat. To me that is important because I'm running an air cooled engine in temps that are regularly over 100 degrees.

I ran an oil analysis series on my CB750 when I was using dino oil. In the summer temps oil that started out as 20w-50 was actually a thin 20 weight after being cooked for 3K miles. Two options are to change the oil every 1500 miles in summer, or use a synthetic that won't degrade as much. I plan on doing an oil analysis series on the Rotella synthetic this summer to see how it holds up.

As far as viscosity goes, the first number in the multiweight spec doesn't matter much to me, as it never gets cold enough here for that to be applicable. The second number, the "hot" weight, is important. Honda's old recommendation for air cooled engines was 10w-40 in normal temps and 20w-50 for hot climates. I haven't run across a JASO-MA synthetic that goes to 50 weight, so I'm making do with 40.

Flynrider, I use Yamalube 15w-50 full synthetic in my Super Tenere. It's JASO-MA rated. The thought has already crossed my mind to use it in the CB1100 after a few oil changes.

[oldyaler_imp]

Synthetics and petroleum based oils are fine if they are motorcycle specific.

Motorcycle specific oils are more resistant to shear. Think of all the gears meshing together. The oil molecules are being "sheared" apart (like scissors cutting paper). Therefore m/s oils won't break down as fast as oils meant for cars.
When I had my Kawasaki ZR-7s I used automotive oils for a while and after about 1500-2000 miles the shifting would get notchier. When I switched to motorcycle specific oil the shifting would stay smooth until the oil was changed around 3000-4000 miles.

[Inline4_imp]

oldyaler, funny you should mention your ZR-7S. I bought a new 2001 ZR-7S after an 18-year hiatus from riding. I always used Castrol 10w-40 in it, and I could always tell when it was getting close to the time to change the oil..................................................... The Kaw's shifting WOULD get rather notchy around the 2k mile mark. Once I "learned" the bike, I would always use that notchiness to gauge when to change the oil. It didn't matter to me what mileage was showing..........if she had fresh oil in her the shifting was effortless and spot-on.
After reading oil posts here as well as on other forums, I've pretty much made up my mind to use Rotella or full-synthetic.
SO, I really haven't made up my mind at all, have I?
Just wanted to comment on the ZR-7. It too, was a pretty cool UJM, albeit a Kawasaki "parts bin" special. I put a lot of fun miles on that bike.
Jim

[oldyaler_imp]

Inline,the ZR7s, once a few things got fixed was a good motorcycle. When I bought it I thought the engine put out an enormous amount of heat. I started fiddling with it and found the problem. The idle mixture screws were set, from the factory, at 3/4, 1/2, 1/8 turns and the last one was completely closed. It's a wonder the thing would run at all. After setting the screws at 1-1/2 turns out the engine heat vanished and cold starting was much improved and I still averaged 56 mpg. Mine was a 2001 also.

I always wanted a Zephyr 750 but by the time I was in a position to buy one they stopped selling them here. The Zephyr line IMO are some of the nicest looking motorcycles ever made.

[flynrider]

Are we better off using the full syn 5w40 or conventional 15w40 Rotella..Which is more important the viscosity number or synthetic component Thanks for any imput..

Synthetic really has one basic advantage over dino oil. It has a much higher resistance to heat. To me that is important because I'm running an air cooled engine in temps that are regularly over 100 degrees.

I ran an oil analysis series on my CB750 when I was using dino oil. In the summer temps oil that started out as 20w-50 was actually a thin 20 weight after being cooked for 3K miles. Two options are to change the oil every 1500 miles in summer, or use a synthetic that won't degrade as much. I plan on doing an oil analysis series on the Rotella synthetic this summer to see how it holds up.

As far as viscosity goes, the first number in the multiweight spec doesn't matter much to me, as it never gets cold enough here for that to be applicable. The second number, the "hot" weight, is important. Honda's old recommendation for air cooled engines was 10w-40 in normal temps and 20w-50 for hot climates. I haven't run across a JASO-MA synthetic that goes to 50 weight, so I'm making do with 40.

Flynrider, I use Yamalube 15w-50 full synthetic in my Super Tenere. It's JASO-MA rated. The thought has already crossed my mind to use it in the CB1100 after a few oil changes.

Didn't even know that existed. Thanks for the info, Scooby!

[jmc1100_imp]

This is what I decided, after carefully reading each post and some research, Honda GN4, the Rotella oil has the same rating ,JasoMA, I'm sure it would be fine and this will be the 1st time I've used a motorcycle branded oil. My new CB1100 is an incredible motorcycle so I'll stick with Honda oil...Beware, just because it says it's a motorcycle oil doesn't mean it's for this application. For the extra cost of these micro brewery motorcycle oils I would have used Rotella, Jaso MA 5W40 synthetic...The days of using inexpensive car oils have passed with the creation of energy conserving formulas...Thanks for the info,next is an aftermarket seat.....

[flynrider]

This is what I decided, after carefully reading each post and some research, Honda GN4, the Rotella oil has the same rating ,JasoMA, I'm sure it would be fine and this will be the 1st time I've used a motorcycle branded oil. My new CB1100 is an incredible motorcycle so I'll stick with Honda oil...Beware, just because it says it's a motorcycle oil doesn't mean it's for this application. For the extra cost of these micro brewery motorcycle oils I would have used Rotella, Jaso MA 5W40 synthetic...The days of using inexpensive car oils have passed with the creation of energy conserving formulas...Thanks for the info,next is an aftermarket seat.....

That's true, although there are still some reaonably priced alternatives to paying through the nose at the bike shop. Valvoline and Castrol both make bike specific oils that can be found at reaonable prices at your local auto parts store. Last time I picked up some Valv. bike oil at Autozone, it was only about $.40 more per quart than the equivalent car oil.

One of the things that makes bike specific oil expensive is where you buy it.

[INTP_imp]

I plan on using Motul 300v 15w50 after break-in. My ZRX and ZX12 seemed to run better with that oil. It is green, sticky and smells like bananas.