Well... I dropped her today...

[redReno_imp]

Let's pretend I did the same thing----
What's involved in changing the crankcase cover (left side)?
When it's removed, would I lose all the oil?.....Loose parts to fall out?....difficult things to align/fit when replacing?

Of course, this is just hypothetical...I would never do such a thing.

I hope this isn't considered hijacking the thread; if so, please delete.

Thanks in advance.

Yes for me it is the left side, the parts website calls it the left crankcase cover, in the manual it says Alternator Cover in the Alternator/Clucth section. If you don't have the service manual already I would recommend getting one whenever you have some extra cash, it has a ton of info.

I hope I am not breaking any copy right laws by typing this stuff up from what I learned but, you are supposed to start off by removing the side cover and starter motor...
I'm not sure if the starter motor is really in the way? Maybe it is for the alternator wire, because after removing these two items you have to remove the alternator wire from all the guides and clamps.

The manual says engine oil will run out if the alternator cover is removed, so if I do decide to do this I'll be performing it with an oil change and drain it before attempting to remove the cover.

I don't think the parts should be loose, but after removing the starter reduction cover and O-ring (will need a new O-ring, per manual) the gear shaft and starter reduction gear will need to be removed. Once done you can remove all the bolts and alternator cover (the manual has a note saying the stator is magnetically attracted to the flywheel and to be careful)

Once the cover is off, the alternator wire can be disconnected from the stator after removing its bolt and clamp and the stator can be removed after taking out its 4 bolts that will need to be torqued down to 9lbf-ft

To put it back together you would need to apply sealant (three bond 1207B) to the alternator wire grommet and torque the mounting bolt to 9lbf-ft as well

Also need sealant on the "mating surfaces" of the crankcase and alternator cover.

It specifies to tighten the bolts on the cover in a "crisscross pattern" (no torque spec)
and to put oil on the starter reduction gear, gear shaft and new O-ring.
Install the starter reduction cover and from here all you will have left to do is secure the wire and installing the starter motor and side cover.

If I do decide to go through with it (I think I will in a few months [after I get crashbars]) I'll turn this into a "How To"... unless somebody who also has a few scratches on theirs already... beats me to it
and I'll include plenty of my own pics.

[RonLyke_imp]

Thanks for the great info. I'll hold off 'til I get crash bars, also.

[ron1100_imp]

What's the cost to replace the cover?

[redReno_imp]

Both off of Honda Parts Nation

http://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemparts...case-cover

and Honda Parts House

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/...case-cover

they are listed at $100.65

but.......
on Western Honda it is listed at $130.71 retail and at "your" price it is $93.46

http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_sectio...veh=162539

an O-ring would be $2.86 on Western Honda.

I know the shipping from the first two sites was about $18.00 to California. I am not sure about Western Honda.

[ron1100_imp]

Everything considered, not a bad price but time consuming though.

[redReno_imp]

Yep, at least it's not like buying a $500 helmet and then having it go down the stairs hard ruining the protection it's supposed to give for only 1 crash.

[Jalsar27_imp]

Seems like a good place to put this. I just joined the "dropped my bike" team.

It was stupid of me. I was basically at a stop, slightly uphill, and stopped. I wanted to take a 90 degree right turn into a parking lot, and really didn't have the room. It happened quick, but I was more or less at a standstill when I dropped it. Small scratches on the right side crank case, small scratches on the right hand brake lever, and a scuff on the end of the pipe.

I got it up okay on my own. Scrape on my shin, thigh feeling like I tweaked it a bit and barking at me.

But you know what? I got lucky and have no complaints. I'm coming away from this with a much healthier respect for the weight of the bike. I used to have a Suzuki TU250, which is probably 200 pounds lighter. Once the CB was going over, it was over in a flash. I'll be way more careful in low speed maneuvers now.

The one thing I might want to fix would be the crank case cover. Where might a fellow lay his hands on an OEM replacement for a '13?

[max]

Well if you're going to replace it anyway why not have a bit of practice with some scotchbrite green abrasive pads.

When i got my 2010 the cap on the case cover was a bit corroded, not much but; i took the timing cover off with an allen key, scuffed the entire thing until it was all equal and clean, sprayed some acrylic lacquer spray can in some layers and put it back after it had dried, i could not tell the difference afterwards, of course if yours are painted it's a different story.

The exhaust could try wet and dry until the scratches are mostly gone and then polish with autosol to the desired finish.

Brake lever? RLETS TIME!

It really depends how handy you are, just a thought.

[LongRanger_imp]

Sorry about your drop but glad you weren't injured. Your Honda dealer will be able to order a replacement crankcase cover.

[Cormanus]

Sorry about the drop, Jalsar. I know just how you feel. I'm glad you're OK.

This may help your thinking on the crankcase cover ... http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=2802