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What are some (uncommon) maintenance tips that not many people know about?
#11
(09-04-2015, 01:15 PM)jeffskar_imp Wrote: I have one very firm belief on something that takes a huge toll on many, many vehicles/motorcycles.
Getting on it, and revving it out is just fine, but wait until the motor is up to operating temperature before doing it. I see people getting off work, and simply giving whatever vehicle they're in 100% wot as soon as they hit the highway that is less than a 100 yards from the parking lot.

I run stuff hard, and frequent the drag-strip at least a dozen times a year, and will not go wot until whatever I'm driving is "up to operating temp". I realize that is sort of vague on an air cooled motorcycle that has no temp guage, but giver her 5 minutes or maybe 2-3 miles before laying into her. I'm 40 years old, and have been hot-rodding everything I've owned with a motor since I was 5, and have never had an engine failure, and this pet peave, among clean/fresh fluids and a good tune-up are what I believe gives me outrageously great results of dependability.

In my opinion this is pretty too short, to warm the CB engine really up
for giving it full throttle. After 5 minutes it only remembers, that it should work now,
but somehow is still half asleep.

Wisedrum
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#12
(09-05-2015, 02:17 AM)Wisedrum_imp Wrote:
(09-04-2015, 01:15 PM)jeffskar_imp Wrote: I have one very firm belief on something that takes a huge toll on many, many vehicles/motorcycles.
Getting on it, and revving it out is just fine, but wait until the motor is up to operating temperature before doing it. I see people getting off work, and simply giving whatever vehicle they're in 100% wot as soon as they hit the highway that is less than a 100 yards from the parking lot.

I run stuff hard, and frequent the drag-strip at least a dozen times a year, and will not go wot until whatever I'm driving is "up to operating temp". I realize that is sort of vague on an air cooled motorcycle that has no temp guage, but giver her 5 minutes or maybe 2-3 miles before laying into her. I'm 40 years old, and have been hot-rodding everything I've owned with a motor since I was 5, and have never had an engine failure, and this pet peave, among clean/fresh fluids and a good tune-up are what I believe gives me outrageously great results of dependability.

In my opinion this is pretty too short, to warm the CB engine really up
for giving it full throttle. After 5 minutes it only remembers, that it should work now,
but somehow is still half asleep.

Wisedrum

In my opinion this is pretty too short, to warm the CB engine really up
for giving it full throttle. After 5 minutes it only remembers, that it should work now,
but somehow is still half asleep.

Wisedrum
+1000 on this very good advice: don't rev up a cold engine.

I had a neighbor once that would habitually start and then rev up her CB350, wah wah wah wah... followed by a full throttle take off within 5 seconds of being started.

With less than 10k miles on it, her bike wore out a small end bushing, you cold hear the loud knocking from the loose piston..
The bike got a very early top end rebuild because of the cold revving habit.
The ball bearing parts could probably take the abuse, but not the plain bushing on the rod's piston pin side.

Oil starved bearings don't like being leaned on..
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#13
I second the changing of brake and clutch fluid. I try to do it on all my cars and motorcycles every 2 years regardless of miles. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and really gets nasty. I bought a vacuum pump several years ago which hooks up to the bleeder screw and makes it a simple one person job. Simply fill up the fluid reservoir and crack the bleeder screw and let the vacuum pull the fluid though.
One item I have been very lax on is the swing arm bolt which attaches the swing arm to the frame. I am rebuilding a 1993 ZX7 and had to make a drift on the lathe the exact OD size of the bolt to drive it out of the frame and swing arm. It had rusted so tightly to the swing arm bearings I was using a really large hammer to get it out. I had heard some horror stories what could happen if this bolt was not removed and greased occasionally but never had one this bad.
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#14
That's a top tip Dave and I might add using the high pressure air to dry and clean the chain after using chain cleaner, then apply your favorite chain lube.
[/quote]

Hi Redbirds, I do that also. I use WD40 to clean my chain; do you purchase specific chain cleaner?
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#15
(09-06-2015, 01:15 AM)Dave_imp Wrote: That's a top tip Dave and I might add using the high pressure air to dry and clean the chain after using chain cleaner, then apply your favorite chain lube.

Hi Redbirds, I do that also. I use WD40 to clean my chain; do you purchase specific chain cleaner?
[/quote]
Hi Redbirds, I do that also. I use WD40 to clean my chain; do you purchase specific chain cleaner?
[/quote]

I have in the past but WD-40 is what I use now, cheaper and gets it done. I also use a soft bristle tooth brush to get in the links.
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#16
Here's a tip from the roadracing side.

Whatever you do to your bike, whether it's adjusting the chain to adjusting the valves, never ever walk away until that last bolt is torqued. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people (racers) stray away from what they were doing only to forget to tighten a bolt, nut or screw.

Finish what you start.
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#17
Use paraffin to clean your chain, it is much kinder.
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#18
Chain Lubrication! Very important, and a lot of gentleman don't do it enough!
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#19
Use Kerosene to clean your chain. Use a grunge brush and also use a grease ninja to lube. I can clean and lube my chain in 5 minutes or less.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#20
Kerosene= Paraffin= WD40.
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