Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Front Wheel Collard question
#11
JD, i walked around my bike and cannot come up with a suggestion, even if the head bearings were loose they still would not show up when riding away, with over 100 kg of weight on them they would simply not move.

Since it happens when you drive away i would start to suspect the drivetrain, i would start with swingarm sideways play on the centerstand, drive chain clearance and check if the rear brake assembly is correctly lined up over the notch and both rear brake pads are in the right place and one is not hanging outside it's notch.

Also the info about the "tick" is a bit sparse, can you hear it when the clutch is released or later on, what if the clutch is released very slow and careful?

Am also reminded to what popgun said; was the fault there before you did the repair? no? then its what you've doneTongue
Reply
#12
(09-25-2019, 09:21 AM)max_imp Wrote: JD, i walked around my bike and cannot come up with a suggestion, even if the head bearings were loose they still would not show up when riding away, with over 100 kg of weight on them they would simply not move.

Since it happens when you drive away i would start to suspect the drivetrain, i would start with swingarm sideways play on the centerstand, drive chain clearance and check if the rear brake assembly is correctly lined up over the notch and both rear brake pads are in the right place and one is not hanging outside it's notch.

Also the info about the "tick" is a bit sparse, can you hear it when the clutch is released or later on, what if the clutch is released very slow and careful?

Am also reminded to what popgun said; was the fault there before you did the repair? no? then its what you've doneTongue


It got to be something on the front suspension....I just can seem to find where!!!!
Reply
#13
"Right after the clutch is fully released"
Is the clutch handle lubricated with grease between the handle and the piston AND under the rubber piston seal?

Failing that i think it's video time.
Reply
#14
Have you tried to create the click by unloading and loading the front suspension? Like bouncing the forks only with an upward lift on the bars first?
How about put the bike on the centerstand, weight the rear so you can spin the front tire, apply the brake, release, then spin the tire and repeat... just trying to re-create the clack to isolate it... Good luck!

Ben
Reply
#15
I pulled the front wheel off my '14 DLX this afternoon and confirm the long spacer goes on the rider's RHS and the short spacer goes on the rider's LHS.
Reply
#16
The Clack Click Clink was resolved. The problem was a misalignment of the chain and it seems like it was skipping a teeth or link when pulling out of first hard. I took both wheel off and checked the front sprocket and all is good now.

Thank you all for the Ideas and the concern trying to help out!!!

JD
Reply
#17
Glad you got it figured out JD. I never would have thought of that
Reply
#18
Ok this is too funny.....

So the The Clickity Clack Click Clink came back on my bike....Around the shift lever. (This is one of the few times I go hating the bike) So naturally I was like Cartman in SWEAR-A-THON (South Park)...like what gives!!!!
So I started from the rear wheel. I loosen it up all the way forward and at this point the chain is dangling. Removed the shifter assembly from the engine and the took off the cover for the front sprocket remove the 5 bolts that hold the clutch piston and the second sprocket cover. At this point I removed the front sprocket carefully by moving the chain aside and removing the sprocket, when I removed the sprocket I felt something drop on the ground and when I looked down the was the culprit of the problem....

A DAM BUNGEE CORD HOOK END!!!!

[Image: c8484366177d886518b8270e4d699f9d.]


I must off picked that up while driving down the road and it was not mine because this one had yellow bungee (Stuck inside the hook about 1/2" long)and I have never owned yellow bungee. Luckily no major damage was done. So put all the stuff back together, torqued everything greased the heck out of everything and went for a quick ride! All is good now. Sooooo smooth!!!! (This is one of the many times I go saying I love this bike)
Reply
#19
Thumbs Up ^^^ The Japanese make a great CB1100, eh jdvalero?
Reply
#20
I love it more than any bike I owned....Including my old CB750 and GL1000
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Front wheel bearing noise? MagnaRider 20 1,645 03-31-2026, 08:20 AM
Last Post: peterbaron
  This is why wheel bearings are failing 1973cb750 3 325 02-05-2026, 08:11 AM
Last Post: 1973cb750
  CB11OO EX wheel rims sprint 6 613 02-26-2025, 06:16 AM
Last Post: Cormanus
  Front Wheel Shimmy trouble shooting. JLEECB 5 514 12-27-2024, 02:06 AM
Last Post: mvk24_imp
  Wheel sensors The Gecko_imp 48 3,763 07-27-2023, 03:51 AM
Last Post: The Gecko_imp
  2013 replacement wheel Randy B 8 743 11-13-2022, 10:32 AM
Last Post: Randy B
  wheel imbalance j3gq_imp 7 609 07-03-2022, 09:35 AM
Last Post: GoldOxide_imp
  Kink in rear (spoked) wheel Ayrshire Dunx_imp 1 246 04-09-2022, 09:37 PM
Last Post: GoldOxide_imp
  Friction front wheel j3gq_imp 12 867 12-12-2021, 01:26 PM
Last Post: jimgl3_imp
  Tires yet again - spoked wheel options Rogerdj_imp 12 934 09-05-2021, 04:56 PM
Last Post: Henrik_imp

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)