10,000 mile inspection, at 8 months of service

[the Ferret]

Typical report Sportster Doc, but glad to see you are looking over your baby.

I have come to figure 25,000 miles on spark plugs and air cleaner, 20,000 miles on brakes. 10,000 miles on tires. Every two years on clutch and brake fluids. Battery every 4 years, chain and sprockets every 35,000 miles, and a smile every time I ride it.

Bold mine. I am expecting 3000 miles on the original tires on my 2017 EX as they are at 3/32" front and rear at 2500 miles. Maybe I'll get 3500 if I run the rear bald. 10,000? I've never seen that on any bike I've owned in 39 years. You might think that I do smoky burnouts and wheelies to get this sort of tire mileage, but I offer the gas mileage on my EX as evidence to the contrary: Never a single tank below 50 mpg, and the last tank was 58 mpg . . .

Bold mine. I am expecting 3000 miles on the original tires on my 2017 EX as they are at 3/32" front and rear at 2500 miles. Maybe I'll get 3500 if I run the rear bald. 10,000? I've never seen that on any bike I've owned in 39 years. You might think that I do smoky burnouts and wheelies to get this sort of tire mileage, but I offer the gas mileage on my EX as evidence to the contrary: Never a single tank below 50 mpg, and the last tank was 58 mpg . . .
Shoot there are guys getting a lot more mileage than that out of the tires on their CBs. I think Randy B got 17 or 19,000 out of the rear on his original rear tire. Front was gone quicker but stock BS tires come with very little rubber on the front.

As for clutches we have guys with 40,50, 60, 70,000 miles and still running original clutches. In fact, it'sme67 finished 100,000 miles on his CB (see post below). He wore out a wheel bearing and broke a couple of spokes, but his clutch was still going strong. I had my original clutch in my ST 1300 at 110,000 miles.

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....ght=spokes

[peterbaron]

Normality for Honda quality.
For 2013 model , I replaced s/plugs and air filter at 48.000 km
Keep SD

How did they look when replaced?

Typical report Sportster Doc, but glad to see you are looking over your baby.

I have come to figure 25,000 miles on spark plugs and air cleaner, 20,000 miles on brakes. 10,000 miles on tires. Every two years on clutch and brake fluids. Battery every 4 years, chain and sprockets every 35,000 miles, and a smile every time I ride it.

Bold mine. I am expecting 3000 miles on the original tires on my 2017 EX as they are at 3/32" front and rear at 2500 miles. Maybe I'll get 3500 if I run the rear bald. 10,000? I've never seen that on any bike I've owned in 39 years. You might think that I do smoky burnouts and wheelies to get this sort of tire mileage, but I offer the gas mileage on my EX as evidence to the contrary: Never a single tank below 50 mpg, and the last tank was 58 mpg . . .

Previous to my 1976 CB750F, I expected about 10,000 miles from a rear tire, such as on my 1970 CL350.

The only bike I owned with more torque than the CB1100 was my 2002 H-D Sportster 1200 Sport and I wore the rear slick in 5,000 miles...but
(a) I did a lot of hole shots and
(b) the stock Dunlop K591 tires gripped well, but were very soft

The K591s and the Sport's fully adjustable F&R suspension probably saved my bacon at the top of Balcom Canyon, circa 2005

The sharp right, ascending from the south is a very blind turn. Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

The 1200 Sport would easily lift the front tire in first as the RPMs increased (clutch fully engaged).

I think my typical tank is about 54 MPG (got better than 60 MPG going around Red Rock Canyon a few days ago), but I am easy on braking...don't really use the brakes very much.

How did they look when replaced?
[
Good colour and almost no electrode wear

Amazing for 30,000 miles!
Remember when we had to change spark plugs, points and condenser every year at 12,000 miles?! (~20,000 kilometers)

How dirty was the air filter?

Anybody wear out a clutch yet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good question. Probably not or not more than 1 or 2, if any. There is enough torque that there is no need to feather the clutch.

Amazing for 30,000 miles!
Remember when we had to change spark plugs, points and condenser every year at 12,000 miles?! (~20,000 kilometers)

How dirty was the air filter?
points, condenser, plugs , yes, very often or too often =.. and always carried spare set
air filter hard to say, cannot see due to mesh construction, some bugs inside

[TCinNC_imp]

As I was doing a lot of riding at the 8K mile mark, I only changed oil, oil filter and lubed chain (8,667 miles), before a 700 mile trip to central Arizona.

Another chain lube at 9,360 miles and 10,078 miles.

So, this morning, after putting up the stars and stripes, since it was only 93F in the garage, I figured it was a good time to do an inspection:

Front brake pads: Both pairs close to new
Rear bakes: Close to new

Spark plugs: Last check was of #4 outside right, so this time I checked #1 and #2 on the left side. Both were a good color and gap checked at 0.032" (spec 0.031 to 0.035). A bit slow getting the inside one out with a 9/16 (14 mm) deep socket, but a fine tooth ratchet with a 1" extension worked.

Front brake fluid height still above site glass and close to clear.
Rear brake fluid height above mid-level and close to clear. Since I removed the seat to check, the seat latch was lubed.

Clutch fluid looked darker, as others have reported. I evacuated the master cylinder, other than a few drops in the cupped port, then added DOT 4 from a new container. Need to find out what size drain tube needed, before bleeding the slave cylinder. Probably 3/16? By replacing the master cylinder fluid now, the slave cylinder should run clear sooner, when it is bled.

Chain slider looks good.

Air filter previously checked and cleaned (moth vacuumed out of intake)

It has only been 1400 miles since the last oil and filter change, but the Castrol 10W-40 color and site glass height is the same as when it was changed.

I had planned on changing only the rear tire, but now looks that both front and rear will be replaced (probably Bridgestone BT54), around the 12,000 mile mark. Most of my riding is longer distances, so brakes and tires are lasting longer than normally expected.

When I fired her up, she went to only 1200 RPM (93 F ambient), as I checked the spark plug reinstall and clutch operation.

Gave the fuel tank and side covers their umpteenth coat of wax.

Since tomorrow is forecast at only 105 F and Friday is forecast for 109 F, I think I'll get in 100-150 miles on Thu.

I used a 3/16 piece of clear fuel line when I flushed and filled the clutch fluid from the slave cylinder.

[SportsterDoc]

As I was doing a lot of riding at the 8K mile mark, I only changed oil, oil filter and lubed chain (8,667 miles), before a 700 mile trip to central Arizona.

Another chain lube at 9,360 miles and 10,078 miles.

So, this morning, after putting up the stars and stripes, since it was only 93F in the garage, I figured it was a good time to do an inspection:

Front brake pads: Both pairs close to new
Rear bakes: Close to new

Spark plugs: Last check was of #4 outside right, so this time I checked #1 and #2 on the left side. Both were a good color and gap checked at 0.032" (spec 0.031 to 0.035). A bit slow getting the inside one out with a 9/16 (14 mm) deep socket, but a fine tooth ratchet with a 1" extension worked.

Front brake fluid height still above site glass and close to clear.
Rear brake fluid height above mid-level and close to clear. Since I removed the seat to check, the seat latch was lubed.

Clutch fluid looked darker, as others have reported. I evacuated the master cylinder, other than a few drops in the cupped port, then added DOT 4 from a new container. Need to find out what size drain tube needed, before bleeding the slave cylinder. Probably 3/16? By replacing the master cylinder fluid now, the slave cylinder should run clear sooner, when it is bled.

Chain slider looks good.

Air filter previously checked and cleaned (moth vacuumed out of intake)

It has only been 1400 miles since the last oil and filter change, but the Castrol 10W-40 color and site glass height is the same as when it was changed.

I had planned on changing only the rear tire, but now looks that both front and rear will be replaced (probably Bridgestone BT54), around the 12,000 mile mark. Most of my riding is longer distances, so brakes and tires are lasting longer than normally expected.

When I fired her up, she went to only 1200 RPM (93 F ambient), as I checked the spark plug reinstall and clutch operation.

Gave the fuel tank and side covers their umpteenth coat of wax.

Since tomorrow is forecast at only 105 F and Friday is forecast for 109 F, I think I'll get in 100-150 miles on Thu.

I used a 3/16 piece of clear fuel line when I flushed and filled the clutch fluid from the slave cylinder.

Thank you.
That is what I remembered to be common, but I've not yet removed the drive sprocket cover.

[TCinNC_imp]

As I was doing a lot of riding at the 8K mile mark, I only changed oil, oil filter and lubed chain (8,667 miles), before a 700 mile trip to central Arizona.

Another chain lube at 9,360 miles and 10,078 miles.

So, this morning, after putting up the stars and stripes, since it was only 93F in the garage, I figured it was a good time to do an inspection:

Front brake pads: Both pairs close to new
Rear bakes: Close to new

Spark plugs: Last check was of #4 outside right, so this time I checked #1 and #2 on the left side. Both were a good color and gap checked at 0.032" (spec 0.031 to 0.035). A bit slow getting the inside one out with a 9/16 (14 mm) deep socket, but a fine tooth ratchet with a 1" extension worked.

Front brake fluid height still above site glass and close to clear.
Rear brake fluid height above mid-level and close to clear. Since I removed the seat to check, the seat latch was lubed.

Clutch fluid looked darker, as others have reported. I evacuated the master cylinder, other than a few drops in the cupped port, then added DOT 4 from a new container. Need to find out what size drain tube needed, before bleeding the slave cylinder. Probably 3/16? By replacing the master cylinder fluid now, the slave cylinder should run clear sooner, when it is bled.

Chain slider looks good.

Air filter previously checked and cleaned (moth vacuumed out of intake)

It has only been 1400 miles since the last oil and filter change, but the Castrol 10W-40 color and site glass height is the same as when it was changed.

I had planned on changing only the rear tire, but now looks that both front and rear will be replaced (probably Bridgestone BT54), around the 12,000 mile mark. Most of my riding is longer distances, so brakes and tires are lasting longer than normally expected.

When I fired her up, she went to only 1200 RPM (93 F ambient), as I checked the spark plug reinstall and clutch operation.

Gave the fuel tank and side covers their umpteenth coat of wax.

Since tomorrow is forecast at only 105 F and Friday is forecast for 109 F, I think I'll get in 100-150 miles on Thu.

I used a 3/16 piece of clear fuel line when I flushed and filled the clutch fluid from the slave cylinder.

Thank you.
That is what I remembered to be common, but I've not yet removed the drive sprocket cover.

Thank you.
That is what I remembered to be common, but I've not yet removed the drive sprocket cover.
You’re welcome!