Swing arm bushing failure

[syncronizator_imp]

Final video is here:
https://youtu.be/FmuW_2R3mOU

Max, I don't think it will be difficult to buy a spacer in Poland.
1mm is available now for example SKF :

https://www.ebmia.pl/1302-podkladki-zeba...m%5D-20.00

You can buy such spacers at companies that deal with bearing trading.
They trade bearing accessories.


Thanks to all of you, my problem has been resolved.
I learned here that this problem can be solved differently than the replacement of bearings and bushings.
The idea of using a spacer is great.
To convince myself of this idea, I had to understand how this mechanism works.
I had to dismantle the swing arm and get everything into my eyes.
I was wondering if using a spacer it would press on the bearing. I checked it and it's OK. There is no such risk.

Thank you for the advice and support.
It is a great pleasure for me to participate in this discussion

[GoldOxide_imp]

Final video is here:
https://youtu.be/FmuW_2R3mOU

Max, I don't think it will be difficult to buy a spacer in Poland.
1mm is available now for example SKF :

https://www.ebmia.pl/1302-podkladki-zeba...m%5D-20.00

You can buy such spacers at companies that deal with bearing trading.
They trade bearing accessories.


Thanks to all of you, my problem has been resolved.
I learned here that this problem can be solved differently than the replacement of bearings and bushings.
The idea of using a spacer is great.
To convince myself of this idea, I had to understand how this mechanism works.
I had to dismantle the swing arm and get everything into my eyes.
I was wondering if using a spacer it would press on the bearing. I checked it and it's OK. There is no such risk.

Thank you for the advice and support.
It is a great pleasure for me to participate in this discussion

Really swell tutorial Pawel.

[syncronizator_imp]

Good work Pawel, i was hoping you had vernier calipers to measure the sizes, nice video's thank you.

The reason it's called a "shim" is because if you want to fill a small gap and bolt it down you fill the gap with some thin layers of brass sheet called "brass shim" which you cut out to the size required with a pair of scissors.
You have thus "shimmed it up" and bolt it up so it does not wobble, you have shimmed the parts and removed the play, i think you know what i mean.

It may not be easy to buy washers this size but even a tin or aluminium can could be cut to size with scissors and the edges straightened with a hammer to match the gap you want to fill between the frame and the needle bearing collar, no one can see it so it does not have to be pretty.

How much grease was in the needle bearing and on the shaft?

I put a layer of black electrical tape around the square bit of the swingarm on mine, it had started to rust where little chips of paint flaked off because road chips hit this surface and now the tape protects it better.

We are learning a lot from your video, thanks for all the work.

There was sufficient part of grease inside the bearing.
Grease looked fresh.

[max]

Thanks for all the work Pawel, we appreciate the effort and feedback, your work makes it easier for the next guy to solve his problem and helped me better understand what goes on in the swingarm bearings and that washers are available to fix this.
Totally agree that we like to understand what exactly is wrong, not jumping to conclusions and firmly establishing the facts by experiment, that's how we get ahead.

That is why i want to correct a statement i made earlier about the nut bottoming out on the bolt.
It appeared that way but i had a closer look at my own situation and i don't think that was the case.
The following picture with inserts shows the nut installed on my bike with 4 threads exposed, it also shows the nut bottomed out on the hollow bolt with at least 7 threads exposed.
That means that there is about 3 turns left on the bolt when installed before it reaches the end of adjustment.
That should be interesting info to other members wondering about their assembly process, here goes;



In closing i would like to point to a video that makes it very easy to check rear wheel alignment accurately and can be done in 5 minutes just in case it helps you with assembly;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=by7L3M8a...e=youtu.be
There is also a very simple way to check correct chain adjustment, the chain should just reach this point on the lower chain guide when pushed to the limit, if it does not reach this point it's too tight and when it reaches farther back it should be adjusted tighter.



I made a mistake once not realizing that if the chain is too tight the chain stretches when you ride the bike because the geometry changes the angle of the hinge points and damaged the chain very quickly, that change in geometry is why there has to be some play in the chain to make up for that change.

[syncronizator_imp]

Nice and cheap idea to check alignment.
In fact, I haven't thought about verifying alignment yet. Thank you.

I am currently waiting for washers. The cost is 3.5 USD with the shipment.
Shipping cost 2.5 USD

I ordered 2 different sets of steel washers:

22 x 32 x 0.1 mm - 2 pieces
22 x 32 x 0.5 mm - 2 pieces

20 x 28 x 0.1 mm - 2 pieces
20 x 28 x 0.5 mm - 2 pieces

I had a problem with the precise chain tension adjustment due to the lack of a stable position of the swing arm.
I hope it will be better now.

I am posting a video on removing the rear wheel i my CB.
This video shows how the chain tension changes when the swing arm position changes: https://youtu.be/nBTFOfCpHPU


I will probably assemble the motorcycle on Saturday. Now I don't have time for this.
I go out to work it is dark outside.
I am coming back from work, it is also dark.
Unfortunately, it is winter in my country and I have to wait for the test drive.

[GoldOxide_imp]

Working in the dark - I hear ya.

Hey syncro, it is winter in the western world too.

It is winter in Australia too, but they probably call it summer down under.