Tires without center line?

[xpacpal1x_imp]

...and, for the record, my front tire has a bad case of cupping. The cupping might be attributable to the fact that I am a new rider (CB1100 is my first motorcycle) and I might be braking while actually entering the turn (i.e., I have heard that I might want to consider having all braking completed prior to entering the turn and actually be throttling up as I begin the turn...easier said than done!). Virtually all my riding is in canyon roads, so that likely adds to the cupping, especially if I'm braking when I shouldn't be. I continue to work on my form, and hope that I'm able to improve and minimize cupping on my new front tire.

[CIP57_imp]

While not on the CB I have run multiple sets of PR2s and PR3s on my ST and like any other tire they cup too, just a little further down the road. I called one set of PR2s my "Flintstone" tires because they were all lumpy looking and look like they were hammered out of rock. They got noisy as they got old too and leaned over felt like a bad wheel bearing but standing straight up felt fine.

Maybe I can find a pic and post it. Ahh found one

Those are just nasty LOL That why i put the softest compound i can buy and change them out at 5000 or before. My pilot power 2ct's would last about 4 to 5K and that was fine for the added grip that gave you.
Redbirds,

Here are the calculations
No real difference in circumference which will have no effect on speedo and no need to alter front end. Amazing how close these two tires are except for the width.

[url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=140-70r18-160-60r18]http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=140-70r18-160-60r18

[CIP57_imp]

There are a few tire threads around where Honda's POV is mentioned and how much thought/testing was put in to our stock tires by the Honda engineers....just like oil, I'll stick with their recommendations.

We have to remember one thing, Honda went with a period correct looking tire otherwise we would have 17" rims for better performance, not to say there is anything wrong with the OEM tires, but there is much room for improvement.

[redbirds_imp]

Strange that I had cupping issues with the stock Bridgestones on my ST1300. My Triumph Tiger had Pilot Roads as OE. At about 8K miles I replaced them with Pilot Road 2's. Never had any problems with irregular wear on these tires nor with the Pilot 3's on the Guzzi. Ferret, were you able to find a tire that wears evenly on your ST1300 or is irregular tire wear the norm. With 3000 miles on the CB1100 thus far, I've not noticed any unusual wear as of yet (Bridgestones).

[the Ferret]

redbirds.. my stock BS cupped on front on the ST 1300 as well. Rear just flattened out on the middle.

The picture I posted was on a rear Pilot Road 2

Just mounted up a pair of Pilot Road 4 GTs on the ST. Will see what they look like when I get back from California.

[Red Mist_imp]

I have OEM Dunlops which are nearing replacement at 6,909 miles. While I'm satisfied with the Dunlops, I'd change tires/brand to one where the front tire (and I assume the rear) don't have the centerline groove found on the OEM Dunlop front tire.

What are my options?

The center groove is critical to channeling water away from the contact patch, so you'll really never find a tire for this application (a touring motorcycle) without it in some form or another. Sportbikes and modern sport-tourers can fit tires like the Dunlop Q3, which don't have one, but that's not a good tire for the wet. It meets minimum standards, and also has a rubber compound that provides more chemical adhesion in the wet, but is not an option for the CB1100. Also this type of tire gets far less mileage than a proper tire for our bike.

Bridgestone has taken the center groove and given it a slight zigzag pattern on some of its tires, like the BT45. This will reduce tracking in pavement grooves, but otherwise, the center groove feature matters little in tire design.

...and, for the record, my front tire has a bad case of cupping. The cupping might be attributable to the fact that I am a new rider (CB1100 is my first motorcycle) and I might be braking while actually entering the turn (i.e., I have heard that I might want to consider having all braking completed prior to entering the turn and actually be throttling up as I begin the turn...easier said than done!). Virtually all my riding is in canyon roads, so that likely adds to the cupping, especially if I'm braking when I shouldn't be. I continue to work on my form, and hope that I'm able to improve and minimize cupping on my new front tire.

All Dunlops do this and as you stated, it's more noticeable among bikes ridden mostly in tighter corners. I tossed mine at 2200 miles. Bridgestones don't seem to do it.

Cupping doesn't necessarily detract from performance until it becomes severe. Take your CB1100 to a track day school (not open track day) sometime, you'd be very surprised and pleased at how well the bike works. Pridmore's CLASS would be a perfect match as his "B" Group is a mixed bag of all kinds of motorcycles, from Gold Wings to Ninja 300s, etc.

[Red Mist_imp]

These T30s look like they would be a great option, no center groove, and the 160/60 rear will apparently work on our 4.00" rear wheel. If I hadn't just got some BT45s I'd buy these. However, as I mentioned in another thread, the carcass is apparently quite stiff as noted in this review from Rider Magazine.
[url=http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/bridgestone-battlax-t30-touring-radial-front-tire/330-0090.aspx]http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/bridgestone-battlax-t30-touring-radial-front-tire/330-0090.aspx