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I haven't had to use it on the CB1100 yet, but I've got a rolling floor jack that works great on the CB750. I just use a block of wood to spread the load across the headers. I did the fork seals on the 750 a couple of weekends ago and one of the forks took quite a bit of yanking before it came apart. The bike didn't budge.
Looks like I could use the same method on the CB11 by putting the block about where the drain plug is on the oil pan.
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![[Image: 42d47d0b5ac9da066115ff079317b3ac.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201310/42d47d0b5ac9da066115ff079317b3ac.jpg)
Harbor Freight scissors jack, 12" 2x4, small piece of 3/4" plywood. Put the plywood under the rear wheel, 2x4 between jack and frame cross member, jack until rear tire is just resting on the plywood. Makes for a very nice and stable way to get the front wheel off the ground. The rear wheel on the plywood keeps the bike from swiveling on the center stand when both wheels are off the ground.
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Hmm, seeing that, the term "jerry rig" comes to mind. Since you said it's stable, I won't doubt you, but using wood to hold up a 550 lbs bike is really not a good idea, IMO.
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(10-31-2013, 04:21 AM)AzBob_imp Wrote: Hmm, seeing that, the term "jerry rig" comes to mind. Since you said it's stable, I won't doubt you, but using wood to hold up a 550 lbs bike is really not a good idea, IMO.
If both wheels were off the bike I'd be worried, but with it being on the center stand and rear wheel it's no big deal. He's just using his set up to tilt the bike and hold it in that position. Doubt theres 50 pounds of pressure there. i have tilted the bike onto it's back wheel with one hand while looking for the valve stem on the front wheel.
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(10-31-2013, 04:21 AM)AzBob_imp Wrote: Hmm, seeing that, the term "jerry rig" comes to mind. Since you said it's stable, I won't doubt you, but using wood to hold up a 550 lbs bike is really not a good idea, IMO.
Don't knock it till you try it. I'm just uncomfortable using the bottom of the engine as a jack point. Much rather use the frame. If I was going to pull the front wheel, I'd add some 4x4 blocks under the lower frame members but for checking the steering head, this works great.
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Seems good to me. After I did something similar to this (instead using the engine as a lift point), I thought that might not be the best idea. I'm sure it's fine, but who knows. It certainly wasn't designed for that load.
Regardless of lifting point, a scissor jack is the perfect tool for this, allowing slow & highly-controllable lift.
Lastly, you mentioned checking the steering head.....is that checking for play, I assume? Never thought of doing that before.
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(10-31-2013, 09:32 AM)Jim21680_imp Wrote: Seems good to me. After I did something similar to this (instead using the engine as a lift point), I thought that might not be the best idea. I'm sure it's fine, but who knows. It certainly wasn't designed for that load.
Regardless of lifting point, a scissor jack is the perfect tool for this, allowing slow & highly-controllable lift.
Lastly, you mentioned checking the steering head.....is that checking for play, I assume? Never thought of doing that before.
Yes, that and freedom of movement lock to lock. That's part of the 600 mile and future checks.
